Robinson Table saw rebuild finished

[Mark Hennebury]

It was in pretty rough shape when I got it, but all the casting cleans up very nicely when its sandblasted. It is a lot of work to dismantle, clean all the dirt and grease, then mask, sandblast, remove the masking, clean all the sand dust, re-mask for painting.

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[Mark Hennebury]

Hi Jerry, I made new shafts, but I didn't blue the shafts. I blued the nuts, bolts and washers, for protection from rust and for cosmetics. I also made many of the washers, a little heavier, and blued the to look nice. I cleaned and wire brushed every nut, bolt and washer first, then heated them and quenched them in oil. They is a big variation in color but overall they looked pretty good, and I was happy with the result. I don't have it down to a science, I just put them in the oven and check on them once in a while. I just have a small oven, so mostly only do the small stuff, I have on occasion done larger parts in the BBQ.

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Curious about the idea of hot bluing the shafts. Was it for aesthetics or for rust inhibition? Did you do the hot bluing? I'd like to hear more about the shaft fabrication and bluing.

[Jonathan Jung]

Incredible! I would love to have one, setup just for solid timber crosscuts. Nice job and thanks for sharing.

[John Kananis]

Pretty amazing work, thanks for sharing this.

[Jerry Bruette]

Hi Jerry, I made new shafts, but I didn't blue the shafts. I blued the nuts, bolts and washers, for protection from rust and for cosmetics. I also made many of the washers, a little heavier, and blued the to look nice. I cleaned and wire brushed every nut, bolt and washer first, then heated them and quenched them in oil. They is a big variation in color but overall they looked pretty good, and I was happy with the result. I don't have it down to a science, I just put them in the oven and check on them once in a while. I just have a small oven, so mostly only do the small stuff, I have on occasion done larger parts in the BBQ.

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Interesting, I've never seen it done like that. What temperature do you cook the parts at, and how long? Do you worry about changing the tensil strength of the fasteners with the heat?

[Ray Newman]

Does my heart good to see the old iron returned to once again working wood. Well done, very well done!

[brent stanley]

Beauty Mark, Robinson made great machines.

[Kevin Jenness]

It's inspiring to see such meticulous work done on a classic piece of machinery. I hope this saw will still be in use a hundred years from now.

[Mark Hennebury]

Hi Jerry.

I don't believe that the temperatures are high enough to cause any problems, and these machines are seriously overbuilt to begin with.

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Interesting, I've never seen it done like that. What temperature do you cook the parts at, and how long? Do you worry about changing the tensil strength of the fasteners with the heat?

[Mark Hennebury]

The new shafts that i made out of precision ground shafting, pretty cool fit!

[Mark Hennebury]

Threads, always a worry to me.

[Mark Hennebury]

I made two new shafts, new collars and sleeves. The shafts had threads and keyways machined. Two deferent keyway slots and custom keyways to suit the different kewway slots in the handles.

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[Mark Hennebury]

Installing the new rise and fall shaft and collars into the motor mount.

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[Bill Dufour]

His bluing is a lower temperature process. More like seasoning a cast iron skillet or parkerizing. I assume low enough there is no light emission. So well below red hot.
The chart of tempering colors are just transition reflection colors that only occur as long as the metal is at that temperature. They disappear when it is cooled.
Austenitic steel temperature is more like 1,500-1,600 F.
Bill D

[Ronald Blue]

Looks like you have a nice lathe as well Mark. Collet chuck on it. Setting up to cut threads brings back memories. You are a skilled machine rebuilder. Taking the steps to make sure it works as good as it looks.