Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 26 of 26

Thread: Any good plans, or pre-made tall resaw auxillary fences for Felder Bandsaws

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,294
    Yes, that looks a lot like my stepped fence. Here's the link: https://sites.google.com/view/jteney...-feather-board You can see all the details if you open the attached SketchUp file.

    How tall did you make yours? It doesn't look all that tall to me, but maybe you don't need to slice very wide veneer. It would be easy to add another fence to the front of what you have, though, if you do.

    John

    John

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,750
    Its actually 12 tall

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,294
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    Its actually 12 tall
    Wow, I guess I didn't realize how large that saw is. 12" should do it. I've cut veneer 14" wide on mine w/o issue. Of course, the height doesn't matter much when the stock is still thick, but for the last slice it can be if it has any bow in it.

    Happy resawing/veneer slicing.

    John

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,750
    To slightly hijack my own thread, I asked this question and then accidentally deleted the post.

    How to you get posted pictures to show up large like the ones Derek posted above, as opposed to the ones that end up smaller like the ones I posted and have to click on to enlarge?
    - Its not that Im so smart, its just that I stay with problems longer. Albert Einstein
    - Welcome to Florida. Where the old folks visit their parents

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,503
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    To slightly hijack my own thread, I asked this question and then accidentally deleted the post.

    How to you get posted pictures to show up large like the ones Derek posted above, as opposed to the ones that end up smaller like the ones I posted and have to click on to enlarge?
    Host them elsewhere, instead of attaching them here.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,750
    So the next step was following in Derek's footsteps to attach a DRO to the bandsaw. After a few trial and error attempts, I've got that up and running. I used the Wixey table saw DRO. It attached very easily with 3 L-brackets and using the pre-existing bolts on the bandsaw:

    Wixey DRO on Bandsaw.jpg
    For the last part, I have been working on a micro-adjuster. This has been the most difficult part of the whole deal. If General International still produced the one I have on my SawStop, this would have been a piece of cake. I'm kludging one together, modified from a plan online (Woodsmith magazine.) Mostly done with that, but the Felder fence with it's irregular shape and rectangular rails (which are great for putting on an extension, but otherwise just not commonly used) have made this difficult. But thankfully, there are a lot of rare-earth magnets in the world.

    I need to come up with something to work as a zero stop block for the DRO. Derek's idea of that collar won't work on my saw due to the rectangular rod.
    - Its not that Im so smart, its just that I stay with problems longer. Albert Einstein
    - Welcome to Florida. Where the old folks visit their parents

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,225
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    ....
    For the last part, I have been working on a micro-adjuster. This has been the most difficult part of the whole deal. .....

    Would this help? It is the micro-adjuster I built for the crosscut fence on the Hammer K3 slider ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,669
    Quote Originally Posted by mike stenson View Post
    Host them elsewhere, instead of attaching them here.
    If you link to pictures at other web sites in time they will be gone and we will have dead links in out archives.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,750
    So, progress after many missteps. I have a first version of a micro-adjuster installed and working on the bandsaw.
    Bandsaw Micro-adjuster 1.jpg

    It attaches to the table top with two magnets, and has a threaded insert in a wood knob that connects to a threaded rod that is glued to the piece that was custom made to fit the odd shape on the back of the bandsaw fence.

    Here's the whole shooting match installed:
    Bandsaw Micro-adjuster, Tall Resaw Fence and DRO Installed.jpg

    And here's a picture with the spring-loaded featherboard on the table:
    Tall Resaw Fence and Tall Spring Featherboard.jpg

    Lots of stuff, and more than a few magnets, but all is removable, and I was able to quickly make a test cut and be accurate from top to bottom within 0.002 inches, and within 0.001 inch in set width.

    I still don't have a stopblock for the fence/DRO and I've been going crazy looking for a pre-made steel or plastic knob with a threaded insert with 5/16" thread, 3/4" total thickness, and 1-1/4" knob diameter. The wood knob I made, despite my best efforts is a little off center. Sigh... Boy I hate threaded inserts.
    Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 11-20-2023 at 6:48 PM.
    - Its not that Im so smart, its just that I stay with problems longer. Albert Einstein
    - Welcome to Florida. Where the old folks visit their parents

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,225
    Hi Alan

    Two ideas for a stop block on a square bar:

    1. Form a through groove in a block (of UHMW or whatever), and insert a bolt through it and tapped into the fence bar. The stop slides on the groove, and can be tightened down.

    2. If you do not wish to drill into the bar, create a sandwich, with bolts on each side of the bar.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,750
    I thought of a quick and dirty solution for now. I put a T-bolt on the Wixey track, and after zeroing the blade on the fence, I tightened it down. When I have the fence move towards the blade, it encounters that bolt and stops. I can zero it there.

    Now if my bandsaw blades are different thickness, this will be a chore. I haven't measured them, but I really don't change blades too often.

    DRO Zero-Stop 1.jpg
    DRO Zero-Stop 2.jpg
    - Its not that Im so smart, its just that I stay with problems longer. Albert Einstein
    - Welcome to Florida. Where the old folks visit their parents

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •