Sharpening Station Setups?

[Joel Gelman]

I am about to make a sharpening station. Part of it will include the NanoHone 3 stone "pond". I will place it on a shelf with a hole cut out in the bottom to correspond to where the drainage opening is (you can remove a screw to drain) and place a bucket underneath. I do not have a sink in the shop.

For those who do not have sharpening stations near a sink where there is a suitable stainless steel or other surrounding counter surface, I see many use a station made from wood to store or set their stones. Others mention something like granite tile scraps, but those are in certain fixed sizes.

I am thinking for the station, I will paint the wood to protect from water (I suppose marine varnish is another option) but was wondering for counter and other surfaces, anyone identified a certain rubber or other product that can be cut to size that is useful? What I am trying to avoid it making a sharpening station that will not hold up due to water damage from the water stone use.

Thanks!

[Phil Gaudio]

Formica laminate

[Jim Koepke]

I have used a floor mat from an auto supply section of a department store, purchased about 15 years ago. It has a ridge all around to hold any excess water.

My stones soak in a plastic, shoe box size container. I keep water in an old milk/juice jug and a spray bottle.

Trying to find one brought up this > Pet Feeding Mat (click me) <

It might actually be better than my mat.

jtk

[Cameron Wood]

My set up uses laminate counter salvaged when I redid the kitchen in my '50s home. The substrate is nice old plywood like you can't get anymore, & the laminate even has paisleys!

[Joel Gelman]

"My stones soak in a plastic, shoe box size container."

Interesting. Once upon a time, I was under the impression that waterstones are to be stored wet in a container with water. That is how I stored stones, and it was not conducive to use. When I see pictures of sharpening stations, it seems like what I generally see is the waterstones set out and ready to go at all times vs stored in some wood box with partitions.

I was not planning to store the Nanohone (and 1 Shapton) wasterstones soaked in a plastic container as I want them out. Does anyone think that is a mistake? I understand that when I apply water it initially sinks into the stone, but I am not thinking there is any other downside to outweigh the advantage of being able to walk over to the stones in the pond, spray with water, and sharpen

[Jim Koepke]

…
Interesting. Once upon a time, I was under the impression that waterstones are to be stored wet in a container with water. That is how I stored stones, and it was not conducive to use. When I see pictures of sharpening stations, it seems like what I generally see is the waterstones set out and ready to go at all times vs stored in some wood box with partitions.

Various stones have different requirements. Some should be soaked for a few minutes before use. Some can be stored underwater to be ready at all times. Some are "splash & go," others have a binder that will crumble if left in the water too long.

For me, keeping them constantly soaking on top of the area where they will be used is very conducive to their use. Just pull them out and line them up. Though mostly now days my oil stones in a different area are used more often.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Ok, may get yelled at again for using "that" name, but..

In a couple of the Ishitani build videos....it shows his "Japanese Way" of a sharpening "bench"

He has a Utility Sink...there is a 2 rod clamping device, that both hold the stone used, and also clamps to the sink....his way of "spraying water" onto the stone in use, is just a wet handful of water from the sink's faucet, onto the stone, as he is working on a plane's iron. Along the back of that sink, are several other stones, waiting their turn...

Yes Derek..he does USE hand tools where needful...and..he keeps them very sharp....

[Tom M King]

Under a small stream of water, it doesn't matter if it's a stone that requires soaking or just a splash. It works fine for either and washes the mess away. Your requirements may vary for various reasons, but I really like it like that here. I never worry about remembering which requires what. None stay in water. None have ever cracked. Never in dirty water. Sink bridge from Amazon.

[Jim Koepke]

Under a small stream of water, it doesn't matter if it's a stone that requires soaking or just a splash. It works fine for either and washes the mess away. Your requirements may vary for various reasons, but I really like it like that here.

Under a stream of water is great, if there is running water and a drain available.

Many shops do not have running water.

jtk

[Cameron Wood]

And with finishing stones, one does not want to wash the slurry away.

[Tom M King]

Yes, I don’t bother with stones that require building a slurry. This just drains out on top of the ground. No trap needed.

[William Fretwell]

IMG_0231.jpg
Granite top for weight, supported at 3 points for stability. Legs substantial. It does not move!
Pond for stones and sink right behind where you stand. Drawer contains band aids. Have added a saw sharpening jig after this was taken at back right.

I do love the cleanliness of the set up. I have replaced the rubber mat with small open rubber mats. The main benefit is being able to have the stone right at the edge of the granite for access and no worries about water.

[Jimmy Harris]

I used sandpaper on glass for quite a while, but the price of sandpaper eventually made it cost effective for me to move on. I am confident you have really good edges, I did too; but keep an eye on your $ going out the door for sandpaper.

Yeah. It's not really an issue. I've noticed the sandpaper quits cutting with high efficiency pretty quickly, but it'll still cut for a LONG time after that, it just might take a couple of extra swipes. It won't feel as gritty, but it still works. Plus I'll work the whole sheet, so plane irons get worked on the center and chisels get worked on the edges.

A single sheet of sandpaper, cut into four strips, will last me about six months. So it takes years before I make it through a whole pack, if I don't dig into it for something else.

I still have several whet stones. But I keep them in the kitchen and only use them for kitchen knives where elevation above the work surface is important.

[Derek Cohen]

For those with water, here are recent-ish photos of my sharpening centre.



Two 8" half-speed bench grinders. One is the original with 180- and 80 grit CBN wheels and a Tormek BGM-100 platform for the Tormek blade holders. Very versatile for bench and lathe chisels, and plane blades. Also used freehand. The 180 grit wheel is for everyday hollow refreshening, and the 80 grit for re-grinding.

The second machine has one hard cloth wheel for buffing and a soft wheel for Unicorn profiling.



I mostly use a Shapton Pro 1000 and Sigma 6000 and 13000, but have been playing around with some old, set aside stones for curiosity. These are Shapton Pro 12000 and a few Chinese waterstones.



The waterstone holder is a layer of rubber on sealed hardwood.



A simple UHMW bracket and clamp ...



This is hinged for cleaning, plus it anchors the board to prevent movement ...



Almost all honing is freehand. Guides are only used for bevel up plane blades.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Shopping Trip, today...NEW bottle of 3in1 Oil...and 1,500 grit, 2,000 grit, and 3000 grit Wet or Dry sandpaper....

Usual routine: Use a coarse oil stone. then the 600 grit Medium India....wipe the India off, and add clean oil...lay the first grit of sandpaper into the puddle of oil...sandpaper stays put. then work up through the grits....then finish up with the Green Compound of the cloth wheel....done...

Retouch of an edge while I am using it? Pants leg of my work Blue Jeans...both bevel and the back....back to work...