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Thread: Cockbeading on table

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
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    1,566
    Questions from the short bus, Mark R is functioning at a much higher level than I.

    So the drawer front veneer is figured cherry, got that. What is the primary wood for the rest of the build? What is the contrasting wood for the beading? And was it planned in advance for so much of the contrast to go away with finishing?

    I think I like the beading, as pictured, better in the low contrast state after finishing, but I am not sure why. I think I could build one of those without the veneered drawer front, but there is nowhere to hide errors and mistakes on a piece that simple and elegant.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Clarks Summit PA
    Posts
    1,711
    The primary wood is cherry. The cockbeading wood is also cherry, but when the curved profile is scraped the cherry wood looks lighter - it will darken in time, but a finish will darken it further. It is not meant to contrast but in the build it does show the beading nicely. I agree with you, I prefer the low contrast state. If you were interested in doing the technique I can walk you through it. It is a simple table with a fancy touch. Thanks for your comments!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
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    2,227
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    Very nice Mark! How do you round the top of your beading and how much does it stand proud of the drawer front?
    With the hot hide glue can you do all 4 sides at the same time or do you need to wait awhile for the glue to hold?
    Thanks- love your work!!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Clarks Summit PA
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    1,711
    Thanks Mike! The bead is rounded using a scraper on the edge of a 1/8 inch shop sawn veneer.
    bead and scraper 1.jpgbead and scraper 2.jpgbead.jpg

    On this small table it usually stands about a fat 1/16 inch proud. On a larger drawer, especially a serpentine drawer, I have had them 1/8 inch or more and it helps hide irregular drawer fit. When working with hot hide glue, I do the top and bottom first and wait to do the sides. I will shoot a pin nail in the drawer frame, cut it almost level, and this helps me fix the bead in place I have noted some thick glue lines with hide glue and am experimenting with thinning my hide glue. I have used PVA glue when the hide glue line looks too thick. At the end I will shoot in some pin nails, especially the ends which are at greater risk of falling off years later. Working on another table/drawer tonight. bead 4.jpg

  5. #20
    I've never seen a scraper like that. Home made?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Clarks Summit PA
    Posts
    1,711
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Hutchings View Post
    I've never seen a scraper like that. Home made?
    Richard, Lee Valley tools.

  7. #22
    Thanks, I may want one.

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