Threading Jigs Update?

[Steve Mathews]

I've been looking at buying a threading jig and have only found the following that are currently available.

Chefware EZ Threading
Hope Easy Set
Baxter's Thread Master

The most robust and refined seems to be the Baxter's. However mounting to the lathe doesn't allow for transport to a different size lathe. I like the portability and different size thread capability of the Hope Easy Set but the manufacturer will not ship to the US and the US distributor shows it as being out of stock. The Chefware looks the most promising to me but doesn't include the different thread pitches as the Hope Easy Set. Unfortunately it also seems to be the most troublesome to use based on online reviews. Are there any other threading jigs out there that I've somehow missed? Any thoughts and opinions on what has best worked for you?

[John Suhreptz]

I have the Simon Hope threading jig and really like it. Call Black Forest Wood Products in Calgary, Alberta Canada. They are Hope distributors and they ship to the US. They helped me get additional TPI kits from Hope after Hope quit shipping to the US. I suggest calling them rather than trying to order through their website.

[Steve Mathews]

I have the Simon Hope threading jig and really like it. Call Black Forest Wood Products in Calgary, Alberta Canada. They are Hope distributors and they ship to the US. They helped me get additional TPI kits from Hope after Hope quit shipping to the US. I suggest calling them rather than trying to order through their website.

Thanks John. Unfortunately their current stock is sold out. I asked to be notified when they will be available again.

[tom lucas]

I have the chefwarekits thread/sphere combo jig. Well made tool. Getting the jig/cutter parallel to the headstock/workpiece is the key to nice fitting threads. Not too hard to do though. I have the 10 and 16 (I think) TPI attachments. I want their 1/4 turn thread attachment, but they don't seem to ever be in stock. I think the 1/4 turn would produce the most useful results in face grain turnings as it is more forgiving to expansion/contraction.

[Reed Gray]

I have the Baxter jig, and an old Bonnie Klein jig. I did look at the Hope and Chefware kits, and after learning on the Klein jig, didn't want them. Main reason is that you have to square up the jig every time you move it, which for me, would be every time I do a lid or bottom, and I generally do them in batches. I would think that it might be possible to make some sort of set up that keeps these 2 in line, but not sure. The Baxter jig maker is a one man show, so it can take a while to get them. He did several improvements to the Klein jig. I have found it very handy to have 2 lathes for this. One lathe keeps the threading jig set up on it full time, and the other is where I turn the lids and bottoms. I do plan on making a video about it. I found the instructions to be very lacking. I prefer the 16 tpi cutters. Main reason is that at most, you have to remove 1/16 of an inch to get the grain to line up. I do have a bunch of waste blocks made. They are on the locking type nuts and you have to turn out the plastic locking ring, drill a hole in a blank, and glue the nut in. I never do boxes over about 1 1/2 inch diameter. Mostly because the wood can move enough if there is a radical environment change so that removing the lid can become a problem.

I don't know if the Chefware kit is made any more. That company sold, and they changed a lot of things.

robo hippy

[Jim Morgan]

Not a threading jig, but I have found that the Mahoney hand threader from Carter & Son can work well, particularly if you can thread & glue in inserts from some amenable wood, such as hard maple.

[Steve Mathews]

Reed - You bring up a good point about dedicating a lathe for threading and doing the rest of the turning on another. And since most if not all of the boxes are relatively small there isn't a need to have the jig on a large lathe. So that being the case my concern about the odd Baxter setup (built up base) for larger lathes is moot. I'm leaning in the direction of the Baxter's Thread Master at this point. However this might mean yet another lathe purchase. As far as squaring the Baxter jig after moving it do you find returning it to its original position difficult? The only video I saw on the Baxter shows this to be troublesome. BTW, the Hope East Set does have the ability to swing the jig out of the way and return to its original position. The only problem is that its practically unobtainium.

[Reed Gray]

Baxter does come with a 'stop block' which is made from aluminum. It does work. Some day when I get a 'round 2 it', I will make a better one. I will use a wing nut and a lock washer to make sure it doesn't come loose. The one that comes with the Baxter set up has a nut that requires a wrench to tighten it. I also use pencil marks on my blanks, a line from the lid down onto the body. I thread the lid first, with the mark at 12 o'clock. When I turn the base, I have the mark at between 10 and 11 o'clock. This gets me a consistent line on the grain so I may need to take off 1/32 or so of an inch to get the grain to line up. This pencil like also serves to tell you where the pieces need to be positioned so when you move it, it will come back to spot on. Bonnie Klein told me it was impossible to time the threads, but I figured it out. Seemed like I needed to take off almost the full 1/16 inch to get the grain to line up one time, and just a hair the next time. I guess it would change for different thread counts. I go with the 16 tpi. I need to get back to my video guy and make some more videos....

robo hippy

[Steve Mathews]

I'll be getting another lathe and Baxter's Thread Master next month and can't wait to give it a go. Reed - Looking forward to that video you mentioned earlier.