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Thread: Help with new to me tecnomax scm fs41 elite planer jointer table alignment

  1. #1

    Help with new to me tecnomax scm fs41 elite planer jointer table alignment

    I have just finished getting this machine ready to use, cleaned up a bit and modified my dust hose hookups etc, only to find my tables donít seem to be co planar. I just sold my beloved from day one, dj20 that was dialed in so nicely recently and I need this to be setup the same way. I just canít seem to figure out the best was to do it. Itís a 2007 model and itís in beautiful condition. I mean it looks new. However the tables to have some low spots here and there but not too bad. Worst is .0004 in the middle of indeed table. The longest straight edge Iíve got is the Veritas 50Ē. Itís what I used to setup my delta and itís nice. My floor isnít great though as far as flat and Iíll be moving the planer around a little bit so it will not be in the same place every time. How do I know if the machine is twisted as it sits there? I think I noticed some shims on the hinge side of infeed table. What can I use to shim if I need more? Can I get shim material at Home Depot? Iíd love a little help. Thanks.
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  2. #2
    If you look back in the archives you will find a number of threads on this topic. To start with, are you getting accurate results with the outfeed adjusted even with the cutterhead? In that case no adjustments are needed.

    Otherwise you will need to start with the outfeed table checking it across the diagonals to ensure it is free of twist, then using shims on the hinge side and-or adjustments to the opposite side supports to get it level with the cutterhead. Then do the same with the infeed table to get its plane parallel with the outfeed. Ideally you will have an accurate straightedge as long as both tables, and you could make one of wood for temporary use.

    If you find by results that the machine is twisting when moved, it might be worth investing in a machinist precision level https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...?navid=2107754. You can get packs of brass shim stock at MSC, McMaster Carr, etc.

  3. #3
    Thank you Kevin. Yes it seems that the info is the same. Iíll try to get some shim material at the local suppliers. As tine is of the utmost importance. I wonder if anyone else uses these machines with wheels and the floor isnít perfect? I mean Iíd you roll it around, every time the machine could be twisted? Thatís crazy. Machinest levels will help setup the machine each time it is used. Arenít those very expensive?

  4. #4
    On another note, has anyone used retractable casters or anything else that will allow this machine to roll forward and backward and in and out? The mobile kit it came with isnít useful as you need to use tge wheeled bar and the wheels are sideways. I canít roll it sideways in other words.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
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    Tracy, CA
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    547
    Generally, the twist in the machine is related to how flat the floor is. If you are working the machine on your brick patio, You can use leveling feet to straighten out the machine twist. However, as soon as you roll it to a different location, the machine will likely be twisted again.

  6. #6
    The picture was from the ad that I saw. Itís on my garage floor. But the floor isnít perfectly flat and level. When you shim the hinge area, does the bolt have to be completely removed in order to get the shim in? Or loosening it is enough to slide shims in. Iíve never had to do this sort Ot thing.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    9,392
    Shims can be almost anything. kitchen aluminum foil 0.63 mills or 0.93mills for the heavy duty stuff. computer paper 0.004", dollar bill 0.0043. Can you still get cigarette papers, that used to be a standby.
    Bill D

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    What hinge are you talking about? do you mean the pivot point the gib strip will have over the shim? You get to use trig for this stuff.
    You should be able to find a online table or calculator for using a "Sine Plate" that will help a little.
    Bill D
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 09-10-2023 at 3:01 PM.

  9. #9
    It’s extremely unlikely that an uneven floor will affect that particular machine. The table-to-frame ratio is not that great and there are no parallelogram rods to deal with. I had a local customer with one of these, years ago, on a very uneven wood floor. He did not experience any performance issues. Of course, you want to shim the feet so the machine itself doesn’t rock,

    OP, have you actually run any wood over this thing yet? I would do that before you start loosening the tables. I think you will find that the factory has already fitted shims to one or both tables. Beyond that, your only adjustment points will be the bolt heads on the “open” side of the hinges. One other thought: Be wary about over-tightening the locking lever on the infeed table. Barely wrist-tight is fine. Due to the camming action of the shaft on the locking lever, it is possible to actually induce some “arch” into the infeed table if you really crank on that lever. Good luck and hope this helps.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  10. #10
    Okay thank you. And do you have to just loosen the bolts and slide in shims on each side of the bolts or do you need to remove the bolts? Also I just changed my knives and noticed the cuts Iím getting have subtle lines going across the board. Mill marks that I didnít get before I changed blades. Is it possible the blades didnít sit properly in the Tersa head due to bits of dust etc?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    You can get shim stock on Amazon. I have no idea why Home Depot would carry it.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by David Bryan West View Post
    Okay thank you. And do you have to just loosen the bolts and slide in shims on each side of the bolts or do you need to remove the bolts? Also I just changed my knives and noticed the cuts Iím getting have subtle lines going across the board. Mill marks that I didnít get before I changed blades. Is it possible the blades didnít sit properly in the Tersa head due to bits of dust etc?
    I would avoid fully dismounting a table ďifĒ shims are needed. The helper springs are very stiff. Also, HOW DOES THIS MACHINE JOINT? Are you able to get a flat board? I would never make an adjustment to the tables (beyond just up or down) unless I was getting convex boards.

    Regarding the streaks in the board, it sounds like you knicked one of the knives. Itís virtually impossible to improperly install a Tersa knife. There would have to be some major-level obstruction inside the knife channel for the gibs to not seat properly. You can loosen on of the knives and shift it over by a millimeter or so. That ought to clean up the lines.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  13. #13
    Iím sorry that I didnít respond sooner as I didnít know that there was more comments Thank you for helping. The shims I got on Amazon, brass, and Iíll use them if I need to. I have used the new knives only to edge joint on the far side of the table and they cut good and itís a decently strait board Iím left with. But when I move to the front of the machine, the cut doesnít make it past the end of a 20Ē long board. Crazy. I put a pencil line on the board and jointed it five times and it didnít get rid of the line about an inch from the end. So obviously the front is not right. Iíll have to get the tables situated but at least the back works great. I mean for 70 inch long boards they come out pretty straight. Not perfect but close. Good for right now. Iím wanting to put this machine on casters, mounted on the side. Adjustable machine casters that are super heavy duty. Iím hopeful someone out there has done this? This is so I can move in and out easily with no bar getting in the way. Lol. Oh and I was cleaning my planer table and noticed it was loose. I could move it side to side pretty easily. I tightened the nut on the underside where the skinny column support is because the lock nut was loose and then I tightened the main column nuts and it seems to be better but still there is movement side to side. Anyone see this with their planer tables?

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    I urge caution on the idea of casters as it reduces the engagement with the floor compared with the normal contact points. Unven floor can also affect performance...when I had my FS-350 in the temporary gara-shop before my new building was completed, cranking the thicknesser table up and down was "tight" due to the uneven floor. Once in the new shop, it was back to normal, easy operation. Cast iron and steel do bend/deflect and these are heavy machines. The OEM mobility kit, despite being inconvenient, never leaves the machines on wheels when you are not making an adjustment to position in the shop. If you truly need it mobile, rather than casters, build or have built or buy a low profile mobile base that engages the floor and keeps the center of gravity as low as possible. When you flip up the tables for thicknessing, there's a big weight shift.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
    My mobility kit has the wheels in the back always down touching the floor. Is this correct or should they somehow retract so the steel frame touches the floor? So the machine is angled slightly as itís up on the rear end about a 1/4Ē or slightly more on wheels. I was going to build something that had the wheels recessed up so the overall height difference would be less than 1/2Ē. And if anything the center of gravity could be better as the wheels are further out. And with the levelers, it woukd rest on those and not the casters on all four corners.

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