[OP]
Member
I purchased what I believed to be a full kerf version of this blade on ebay. It turns out it's a .111" kerf instead of full kerf. It has not yet been delivered. I can return it (because it was misrepresented) and before I do I want to get a few opinions about using full kerf vs the .111" kerf. I'm also toying with the idea of buying a Forrest WWII, which I used to have and (stupidly) sold.
Wood working is like a vicious cycle. The more tools you buy the more you find to buy.
Contributor
I have a thin Kerf I use to rip sometimes. I use it with a stabilizer. The stabilizer balances the blade but you lose height of blade.
There are many good blades out there. I have the ww2. I also like Ridge carbide blades.
Contributor
I think the biggest issue with using a thin kerf blade is the requirement to re-adjust your rip fence guide and/or any cross-cut/miter fence guides. I have read comments that people like thin kerf blades because it "takes away less material", but you are looking at about a 1/64" difference and I don't think that matters much.
Thin kerf may require less HP motor because it's chopping away less material. I have seen blades as thin as 2.4mm (0.0944").
George may have a good point on blade stabilizing. The thinner kerf blades could have a tendancy to wobble or flex under load. This could lead to a less accurate cut.
Contributor
I've used Tenryu blades and they've been good blades. Ridge also makes good blades.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
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