I don't have a planer sled but I'd like to make one. Would it help eliminate snipe.
Should I keep it simple and use wedges with hot glue or go nuts with some of the more complex sleds I see on youtube?
I don't have a planer sled but I'd like to make one. Would it help eliminate snipe.
Should I keep it simple and use wedges with hot glue or go nuts with some of the more complex sleds I see on youtube?
Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation
Well, I built a simple type and it worked great cant remember on the snipe. Glad I went simple because after using it and a straight line jig on the TS I got fed up and bought an 8" HH jointer. The work around jigs work perfectly fine but they just pissed me off & the work gets done so much faster now.
I made the Keith Rust sled which has a moderate level of features that makes it still useful today.
planer sled.JPG
If I were making one today I would do the ShopNotes version.
Planer Sled-S-N.JPG
I have also sent you a PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I have a 15 inch wide piece of plywood for when I absolutely must joint something wider than 8 inches (not often) and that's really all that's needed. Set your stock on top, screw in stops and hot melt some wedges underneath (where appropriate) and you're ready to go.
I have sleds in various sizes. Sometimes I secure the wedges with tape but usually just use them loose. The sleds have little dogs at the front edge.
Last week I used one to taper some legs. Easy peasy.
Colin Knecht removes all the overdesigned overkill - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OK5CxqYmUSo
Works perfectly. Every time.
Howard Rosenberg
I bought a pack of these 24x46 for some shop jigs, shaper origin table, etc. and overall quite pleased with the results. I also made a simple sled with a cleat at the back so I could plane some small parts for my current build.
https://www.woodworkerssource.com/ha...ples-8x12.html
I have two pieces of melamine that I use as a sled. One side I keep untouched, the other side I use to shim and hot glue down wood if it's something I don't want to rip and flatten on my jointer.
Distraction could lead to dismemberment!
If you think about it, you have two forces. One is the feed roller(s) pulling the material through, the other is the cutter head. Generally speaking if you're taking even a light pass the cutter head will have more force than the feed rollers, ergo the piece, if it moves will drift towards the back. The cleat at the back prevents the material from getting pushed off. If you wanted, you CAN add one to the front, but in my experience it is not necessary. Some will put skateboard tape instead of a front cleat which is also pretty good.