Table saw blade guards - floating vs splitter mounted?

[Michael Zerance]

I'm moving my shop and preparing to install an old Delta 12/14. The saw is missing the splitter and blade guard so one will need to be purchased and installed. I have a splitter-mounted Shark Guard on my Grizzly 1023SL and it works great so I'm leaning heavily to going that route again for the Delta. However, the Shark Guard has to be removed for all non-thru cuts so I am wondering if there are any drawbacks to using a floating guard that would not require removal to make those cuts.

What are the pros and cons of the floating guards versus the splitter-mounted guards (besides the obvious need for having to remove splitter-mounted guards for non-thru cuts)?

20230808_165038_HDR.jpg

[Doug Garson]

I think a floating guard can be moved up out of the way for blade changes or to use a sled more easily than a splitter mounted guard. On the other hand, when removed, a splitter mounted guard is less bulky to store when not in use.

[John TenEyck]

Short of a riving knife, a splitter is your best protection against wood pinching the blade and getting propelled back at you. There is an option to use a different blade insert plate with various height splitters that click into it behind the blade, instead of the splitter integrated with the guard, and that would allow you to use an overhead guard w/o giving up the splitter. Sorry, can't remember the name of that splitter system.

John

[Michael Zerance]

Short of a riving knife, a splitter is your best protection against wood pinching the blade and getting propelled back at you. There is an option to use a different blade insert plate with various height splitters that click into it behind the blade, instead of the splitter integrated with the guard, and that would allow you to use an overhead guard w/o giving up the splitter. Sorry, can't remember the name of that splitter system.

John

Agreed. I fully intend to have a splitter installed with either type of guard but that is not my question. The question is what are the pros and cons of the different types of guards?

[Tom Trees]

Here's some light reading for you....https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads.../#post-1678138

But to quote Deema
"It’s all the fault of ‘elf and safety. You can no longer attach the crush guard to the riving knife over a certain blade size. I think it’s 10”. It’s so the blade is adequately guarded when tilted. "

For non through cuts also mentioned for convenience, when using shaw guards like Roy of course.
Screenshot-2022-9-30 Safe Wood Machining by Roy Sutton - YouTube(1).jpg

There's a good thread from here recently, where Joe posted some pictures of his floating SUVA guard.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-for-Table-saw

[Bill Dufour]

I can not find the link now but there is a web page with a guy who made a true riving knife for that saw. Need some real machine shop skills to do it. It rides on a ball bearing concentric to the arbor shaft. His saw used cog belt pulleys so the arbor had extra length for the extra bearing to ride on.
Note the factory sheaves are an oddball spacing between belts. No pulley currently made will match. If you replace one pulley you will have to replace them both. Lucky for me the motor pulley was a taper lock and I just bought a new inner taper portion to match my single phase motor.
Bill D
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....knife-retrofit

[Kevin Jenness]

The floating guards are typically wider than the one shown on the saw in the background of your photo. The spring-loaded ones I have used are quick and easy to move up and down for non-through cuts and narrow rips, and they don't have to be pushed up by the stock. The only advantage I can see to a splitter mounted unit is compactness and lower cost.

[Jim Becker]

Anything outside of a riving knife affixed to the blade mechanism that goes up and down with blade height will have to be removed for non-through cuts. It's the nature of the beast. A lot of folks do use simple splitters that are attached to their table insert instead of the older OEM type that has to be installed and removed using wrenches, etc. Overhead guards can be used with or without a riving knife/splitter at the saw blade with the exception of when you are cutting into a tall assembly, like a box, that's taller than the guard can accommodate under it. If you want to use these devices on your older saw, the combination of some form of splitter and an independent overhead guard gives the most flexibility.

[Bill Dufour]

Did you figure out a good method to make a zero clearance insert for the saw? I was thinking glue or screw some wood to the side of the table and the insert and raise the blade into that. Maybe Bondo?
BilL D

[Rod Sheridan]

Agreed. I fully intend to have a splitter installed with either type of guard but that is not my question. The question is what are the pros and cons of the different types of guards?

Hi, I use both on my saw, depending upon what I’m doing.

I have a boom mounted overarm guard, and I use a riving knife with it. Properly adjusted riving knife and I can perform a non through cut, and of course with an overarm I can rebate and dado.

In those extremely rare instances, such as narrow strips I can switch to the narrow splitter mounted guard, or move the overarm guard to the left and use an F&F jig.

All guards require dust extraction unless you really enjoy emptying your shirt pockets, or have gourmet wood.

Regards, Rod

[Michael Zerance]

Thanks for all the responses, fellas. It gives me a lot to ponder. I'll post back when I get the saw hooked up.