8" bench top jointer or 6in floor standing jointer

[Peter Choi]

I'm building out my workshop and make furniture. In my area rough lumber is half the cost of S4S, so I might as well flatten my own lumber. I don't have the money for a full 8 in jointer as this is just a hobby/side income for now but was wondering if you recommended a 8 in bench top jointer like this grizzly with extensions to get a 52" bed

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-8-benchtop-jointer-with-spiral-type-cutterhead/g0947?gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_5unBhCMARIsACZyzS2iMyaP oKyfJVW5DqaIakDyQZZh2x-Za3gH6ZSo71X6LQ5ZwsMuI1caAmtUEALw_wcB

Or I can get a used floor jointer for a few hundred dollars. Jointers in my area, seem to be 20 years old and don't have as nice of cutter heads as that grizzly.

Basically I just want to finish some rough lumber, mainly white oak and walnut for furniture.

I know boards come wider than 6 in", sometimes wider than 8", would you recommend flipping it over to flatten the face or rip it in half to get board widths under 6 or 8 inches?

[Randy Heinemann]

For me, there would be a couple of factors:

1. Bed length - If the floor models have longer beds, then it will be easier to joint and flatten longer boards effectively.
2. Board width - If you commonly flatten boards that are close to or wider than 8", then an 8" jointer would be a good choice.
3. Cutterhead - A spiral cutterhead is always on the top of my lst these days. Spiral cutterheads are generally quieter and, most importantly, give a better surface, especially on figured wood.
4. Condition of the used jointer is also important. If you can find a good used 8" spiral cutterhead jointer with 50"+ bed, that would seem ideal.

Jointers should last a long time, but, of course, it depends on how the original owner(s) cared for it. Do the infeed and/or outfeed tables sag? The motor shouldn't be an issue. Are the tables rusty or have they been kept protected by waxing them periodically. If the heads aren't spiral with carbide cutters, are the blades easy to remove and reinstall when sharpening is needed?

After I bought a Jet 8" helical head long bed jointer, it immediately improved my flattening and jointing results. I rarely find or use boards wider than 8" so it works for me for almost all of my woodworking projects.

Remember that, regardless of what size jointer you have, you can only flatten one side of the board on the jointer. To get a board that is both flat and has parallel sides you need both a jointer and a planer.

Since I don't know your experience, I'm sorry if all of this is obvious to you. It wasn't my intent to "talk down" to you.

[Michelle Rich]

I used a 6" delta cast iron floor model for 35 yrs. I then bought an 8" wahuda. I love the wahuda. I built a table and inserted the wahuda into it and can do very long boards. If I were buying today, I'd get a 10" wahua, and insert it in a table and be very happy

[Monte Milanuk]

I built a table and inserted the wahuda into it and can do very long boards.

Any chance of details/pic of this setup? I have an 8" Wahuda, and it works pretty well... except for the occasional long board (bed rails, etc.). PM if you'd rather

[Michael Burnside]

I have an 8" Powermatic PJ882HH floor with helical head and 82" wide bed and love it. I generally rip to nothing over 7" if I'm building fine furniture due to wood movement concerns. That said, I don't think I could stand to use a 6" as it would probably feel a bit small when jointing 5-6" boards. Michelle brings up a very good point IMHO. I've seen serval reviews of the Wahuda 8" and people generally seem to love them. I'd guess the 10" is just as good. If I were considering a benchtop, that's the direction I'd go and just build a table insert into my main workbench so I could have adequate support on longer boards.

[Brian Runau]

8" is a preferred width, you won't like a 34" bed. Look at 8" longbed floor models straight blades for lower upfront cost, you can always add spiral cutter head later as money allows.

[Edward Weber]

You can get away without a jointer, if you have a planer and a tablesaw. It's not the best scenario but it is certainly doable.
If you need to have an 8" jointer, a longer bed than the benchtop models is almost a necessity. Unfortunately, the floor models with the long beds will run you three times the price and up.

[Ralph Okonieski]

I started with a 6” jointer and also used the technique Edward described with the planer. Neither approach is desirable. Save your money a little longer and get the 8” or larger if possible. You will not regret it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

You can joint boards up to 9" wide using a 6" joiner, as long as it has a rabbeting ledge (most do.) Search youtube for videos showing technique.

[Rich Konopka]

I have an 8” Wahuda table too join that I used before I went big with a Felder. I really like it and would recommend it. What also need to consider the length of your stock that you mill. The tabletop jointer has a shorter infeed and outfeed that introduces challenges with longer stock. There are work arounds with supports and other stands.

If you look for an older jointer you can always replace it with a helical head. I would love an old DELTA DJ20(like Norms).

HTH.

[lou Brava]

You can joint boards up to 9" wide using a 6" joiner, as long as it has a rabbeting ledge (most do.) Search youtube for videos showing technique.

Now that's very interesting, a big advantage in that is cost, availability in used market & shop space. I've been looking for a decent used 8" for a few months and have seen a lot of well priced newer 6" machines. I'm about ready to bite the bullet on a new 8" but 2.5K for a hobby WW shop has held me back. I'm headed to YT & check out those videos

[Stan Hendrix]

You can get away without a jointer, if you have a planer and a tablesaw. It's not the best scenario but it is certainly doable.
If you need to have an 8" jointer, a longer bed than the benchtop models is almost a necessity. Unfortunately, the floor models with the long beds will run you three times the price and up.

There is a third method of jointing without a jointer: Use a router mounted on a sled sliding along rails. Not as easy as a dedicated jointer but it works very well especially for wide pieces. You can also use the router table for edge jointing.

[Stan Hendrix]

I've seen serval reviews of the Wahuda 8" and people generally seem to love them.

Not if you read the reviews on Amazon. Apparently, Wahuda filters out the negative comments on their website.

I was in the market for a benchtop jointer until a friend gave me his 1991 vintage Craftsman 5" jointer. I think the old Craftsman is better than any of the current benchtop jointers. It has cast iron infeed/outfeed tables as well as a cast iron base; the fence is stamped metal but of a thick gauge that doesn't bend or flex and is easy to square. The tables are sufficiently flat and need no adjustment. And the table and fence settings hold their positions. Yes, it is a PIA to align the blades but it is worth it. Solid performance after 32 years! Need a good benchtop jointer? Look for a used vintage one.

[Michael Burnside]

There is a third method of jointing without a jointer: Use a router mounted on a sled sliding along rails. Not as easy as a dedicated jointer but it works very well especially for wide pieces.

True, but it's also like saying I could joint on my CNC. Arguably more accurate than the router/sled since my gantry and table are in perfect alignment. I'd say buy a jointer waaaaaay before I bought a CNC or rig good enough to flatten to satisfaction.

[Stan Hendrix]

I have an 8" Powermatic PJ882HH floor with helical head and 82" wide bed and love it. I generally rip to nothing over 7" if I'm building fine furniture due to wood movement concerns. That said, I don't think I could stand to use a 6" as it would probably feel a bit small when jointing 5-6" boards. Michelle brings up a very good point IMHO. I've seen serval reviews of the Wahuda 8" and people generally seem to love them. I'd guess the 10" is just as good. If I were considering a benchtop, that's the direction I'd go and just build a table insert into my main workbench so I could have adequate support on longer boards.

True, but it's also like saying I could joint on my CNC. Arguably more accurate than the router/sled since my gantry and table are in perfect alignment. I'd say buy a jointer waaaaaay before I bought a CNC or rig good enough to flatten to satisfaction.

No, it isn't like saying use a CNC. Most woodworkers probably have a router but not a CNC machine. Of course a jointer is preferred (but only a good one). Even if you have a jointer, having the router sled jig on hand can be useful for slabs that may not fit your jointer or planer. Making one is easy and cheap and, if you don't have a router, it is an excuse to get one.