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Thread: Experience working with Teak?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Experience working with Teak?

    I need to wrap a vanity with teak and would like to know how's been that experience for some of you here.

    I guess it's the over-cautious that I am who wants to make sure I don't run into any snags. And the main reason for this is because I've heard teak can't be planed like other woods that are not as oily and water-resistant as this. I also know you have to use some polyurethane glue, gorilla, or something of that sort.

    What about taping the edges of the carcass built out of prefinished ply with teak tape as well? the tape is veneered, not backing. I like to think I can use wood pva, anything else seems messy.

    The boards I'm using are 3/4 dressed but i need to make panels @20" deep by 42" wide approx for the top, so three boards trimmed at about 6.75" would make up a panel. They hopefully don't need that much planing for they will be dressed and joined with bisquets and also come pretty much already at the final dimension.


    Just wanted to hear thoughts.


    Thank you

    Daniel
    danibejar.com
    Last edited by Daniel Bejarano; 08-21-2023 at 10:48 PM.

  2. #2
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    Teak is oily and abrasive. Clean with acetone prior to gluing. The silica in teak will dull tool edges very fast.

  3. #3
    I was fortunate to acquire a bunch of teak, so have made a lot with it.

    No special measures except maybe glue surfaces should be freshly milled. Tightbond 2 or 3. Possibly slightly hard on cutting edges but not a big factor. Not all that hard of a wood about the same as walnut.

    No experience with veneer tape.

  4. #4
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    Some of the best teak I’ve worked with was from Burma and it was oily and nearly impossible to hand plane. Just like Mark mentions full of sand and oil.
    Then I’ve used teak that wasn’t as oily or abrasive but they both shared the same characteristic smell. I don’t remember what glue I used probably titebond 3.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  5. #5
    Like Mark , I’ve used acetone , and all was well. But some say acetone has a some oil in it ,and won’t use it. And some insist on MEK ,or something else.

  6. #6
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    As noted, teak is workable, but with caveats. You "will" consume things like jointer and thicknesser knives because it has a lot of silica inside of the wood. And proper cleaning is absolutely necessary to use glue. Using good joinery techniques is essential...you'll notice that a lot of commercially made products that use teak employ mechanical fasteners to help get around the gluing challenges.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
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    I've built a large desk and hutch for it out of teak a number of years ago. All I remember doing was using acetone before gluing, and everything looks great now about 10 years later. Didn't replace jointer knives, but then again I sold that machine years ago, so who knows.

    Really regret giving away to charity a number of Scandinavian Design teak pieces when we downsized. I really love that look. They were all joined mostly by mechanical fasteners, as Jim pointed out. Joining them with biscuits or dominos should work out fine.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron Wood View Post
    I was fortunate to acquire a bunch of teak, so have made a lot with it.

    No special measures except maybe glue surfaces should be freshly milled. Tightbond 2 or 3. Possibly slightly hard on cutting edges but not a big factor. Not all that hard of a wood about the same as walnut.

    No experience with veneer tape.
    My experience is the same as Cameron. I was given a bunch of teak that was quite old. No problems machining it or gluing it. I used Titebond III.

    At a different time, I had some relativly fresh teak and didn't have any problems with it, either. Machines fine and glues okay with PVA.

    Nice wood for certain things, but very expensive as raw wood.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  9. #9
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    Acetone is your friend - it can be done though. My buddy built this bench out of teak decades ago.

    bench.jpg
    "The reward of a thing well done is having done it." - Ralph Waldo Emerson

  10. #10
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    All teak is not the same. Plantation teak is much different that the old growth that used to be available, and maybe still is? You could feel the oil in the old growth, not so much in the plantation that I used. I suggest you do a couple of adhesive experiments with the teak you have.

  11. #11
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    About 15 years ago I built a boat from mostly teak. I luckily got Burmese teak from the importer. I didn't have any serious issues working with it. I used epoxy mostly but also some Titebond.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Bejarano View Post
    ...I also know you have to use some polyurethane glue, gorilla, or something of that sort...
    Noooo!

    I have been a professional boat builder and woodworker (mostly teak) for nearly 50 years and would never even consider such glue, ever. The best I have used is WEST System epoxy. Not sure what you mean by "wrap a vanity".
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Noooo!

    I have been a professional boat builder and woodworker (mostly teak) for nearly 50 years and would never even consider such glue, ever. The best I have used is WEST System epoxy. Not sure what you mean by "wrap a vanity".


    Do use acetone or other before gluing?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron Wood View Post
    Do use acetone or other before gluing?
    On critical glue-ups I wash the surfaces with acetone just prior to applying the epoxy. Strongly recommend reading: The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Building."
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    On critical glue-ups I wash the surfaces with acetone just prior to applying the epoxy. Strongly recommend reading: The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Building."

    Thanks! .

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