My Push Block

[Tom Bender]

I thought a heavy push block would give me control so I used this piece of Oak for a while, till it flew past my head.

Heavy Push Block.jpg

One way kickback happens is the workpiece is allowed to lift above the table by a little bit, then gets sucked down into he teeth which can launch it. That happened to my push block because it was longer than the workpiece.

Now I use this block, shown here in oops position. It is a big block of Balsa with an Oak tab on the back and a Pine handle on top. It's immune to this particular mistake, and it's a terrific push block. I made one for a friend with foam instead of Balsa. Works great, just be careful what glue you use. 4" x 6" x 24"

push block dipping.jpg

Here I am using a thin side push stick to hold the work against the fence.

Thin Feather.jpg

The attached thumbnail shows a push stick in a position to get driven into my hand. Not recommended.

And I don't let any plastic or metal onto the table for fear of shrapnel.

[Warren Lake]

there all crappy

[Andrew Hughes]

I never use a push stick to move the wood from the end.
Always on the surface slightly towards the fence and if it’s a long rip I have second stick in my other hand to reposition the stick controlling the wood.
This is advanced woodworking skills that takes years to develop

[Cameron Wood]

Your giant push block covers up the blade and the stock so you can't see what's happening. How do you know if the material is even against the fence?

[John TenEyck]

Your giant push block covers up the blade and the stock so you can't see what's happening. How do you know if the material is even against the fence?

You don't have to see the wood to know where. If you hold the piece down and against the fence you already know where it is. This is a common reason to argue against using a guard, false as the argument is. If you need to use a feather board to assure yourself the workpiece is firmly against the fence, then use one. Anything it takes to use a guard.

John

[Cameron Wood]

You don't have to see the wood to know where. If you hold the piece down and against the fence you already know where it is. This is a common reason to argue against using a guard, false as the argument is. If you need to use a feather board to assure yourself the workpiece is firmly against the fence, then use one. Anything it takes to use a guard.

John

Well by that reasoning, you could use opaque safety glasses.

[Mark Hennebury]

Surprised anyone has any fingers left.

[Keegan Shields]

Interesting solution Tom. I like to see what others use and add it to the mental idea bank.

I’ve been through a ton of different shop made push blocks, and have settled on the MicroJig one for ripping on the TS. I resisted purchasing it for a long time due to the cost, but it really works well. Other than cost, it does require that you take a second to configure it to your cut.

But when properly set up, it allows you to maintain control of the workpiece and the offcut. I also use their other style of push block (the one with the drop down tabs) on the jointer and bandsaw (while resawing). I highly recommend both.

[Ole Anderson]

Narrow enough to miss the blade and long enough to keep the stock from lifting. Push sticks ought to be banned.

[Jim Becker]

Push blocks with handles to keep the fingers secure can be made in a variety of thicknesses to best support the width of the material being pushed along the fence. "Just one" is not enough... Many folks have been pretty creative with the designs, too, just for fun. FourEyes, on the 'Tube, has them looking like sneakers in the same manner that the one that Ole shows as a hand saw handle design.

[George Yetka]

I dont often use a pushblock/stick for anything over 3" or so. when things get smaller I use a benchdog small pushstick and usually a pencil eraser. if Im doing alot of something I use the Jessem clear cut. I feel safer with this formula than alternatives.

For super fines Ive been eying the Woodpecker Thin rip guide, but I dont do much cutting in small sizes like that.

[glenn bradley]

It is always interesting to hear different ideas on tools and operations. The idea that one has to see the cut on a tablesaw always gives me a grin. The tablesaw is a fixed plane machine. The blade, fence and table are where they are, they don't change. As long as the material is pressed to the table and fence while moving through the blade there isn't much you have to see. It's not like your going to alter the feed path mid-cut.

Long or skinny push sticks are just plain dangerous IMHO. Blocks require a friction pad, a tail hook, or both as Tom discovered. Blocks longer or larger than the material are fine as long as the pressure is over the material so as not to tip. I enjoy people's clever designs that mimic saw handles, shoes, and so forth. This makes things fun. We certainly do more than one thing on the tablesaw and needing more than one style of pusher seems pretty obvious. I have an array of shapes, sizes, and functions.

blocks general 2.jpg

Something I see done that may be worth mentioning. Using a well designed narrow push tool on wider stock. This requires some consideration as to the position of the forward push-point. That is, pushing a 6" piece between fence and blade with a narrow push block too far to the right or left can result in kickback.

Push stick kick.jpg

Anything over 4" and I reach to a wide block or pad as opposed to the narrow pushers I would use for ripping thinner parts. This is an area where it pays to not be over opinionated, look at everything, and use the methods that suit your situation best. Let's play safe out there .

[John Kananis]

Glenn, the issue in the last pic is pushing wide stock from the fence side, which pushes the piece into the blade (inadvertently). Pushing from the center point to the left of the piece (so the push stick is closer to the blade and further from the fence) will give a safer cut.

[Cameron Wood]

I've used these for many years without incident. They cost $2 at the lumber yard, last quite a while, and stand out visually. I've made various wooden ones, but have come to prefer these.

Never had one fly past my head, and there is no "oops position".


IMG_4303.jpeg

[Lee Schierer]

Here's my push stick. I've made a number of them for other woodworkers.
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