Input requested on routers that have greater depth capability

[Jim Becker]

Although I have not reviewed the system yet, I acquired a TrueTrak slab flattening system for the shop awhile back and recently used it for the first time preparing the slabs for my current table top project. It works great and I'll go into more detail at a later date.

For my initial use, I employed my DW618 router motor and the D-handle base with the D-handle removed so it would fit on the mounting plate without drilling new holes. The router performed very well in every respect with the exception of one: available depth of cut with the tooling mounted properly in the collet. I used some work-arounds to complete the task, such as blocking the material up higher as it became "mo flat" as well as removing the depth adjustment ring for final passes. The job got done. I was happy with the results. But for long term, I'm considering buying a router that can be "dedicated" to the system that has more depth adjustment available. The end results would be the same, but there would be less fiddling and that reduces the chance of a mistake.

So from the collective mind, what 12-15 amp routers out there "in the current market" have "impressive depth" capabilities? I do have an OF1400, but I am not in any way shape or form going to dedicate that to the flattening setup as it's my primary hand-held unless I use the DW618 with the fixed base for a specific reason in the moment.

Thanks in advance!

[Phillip Mitchell]

What is the ~ max depth of cut you were able to achieve with the DW618, just to give us a reference?

I have mortised ~ 2 3/4" deep with a specific, longer 1/2" spiral bit with my Makita RP2301FC plunge router. It has been some years since I did so the details are hazy, but I seem to remember heavily adjusting the depth stop limits to get more range and eventually running into the limitation of the collet nut bottoming out on the work.

[Edward Weber]

Wouldn't it be wiser/safer to lower the carriage or rails to accommodate the depth of cut issue, rather than having a surfacing bit over extended. Just thinking about vibration/chatter.

I have an older version of this tool and it has worked well for many years
just a suggestion

[Jamie Buxton]

I don't get it. Why not use your OF1400 in the flattening jig? You just screw it on to the jig, right? So going from handheld use to flattening use is just a matter of a couple screws, right?

[Bill Dufour]

Not sure of your question. I thought most routers could put the collet nose at or lightly below flush. Do you mean spindle travel? maybe you mean how long a bit can be used. With only two bearings not much more then 3-5 inches or whip becomes a problem. A decent drill press has three bearings for the spindle. A vertical milling machine has at least two and often four bearings.
Bill D

[Richard Coers]

So you want a router that extends the collet well below the base? Order a spare set of bearings when you find that router. Hand held routers are not designed to spin these large diameter cutters, well below the base, for long cycle times

[Patrick Varley]

Doesn't answer the question directly, but in looking at the design, seems like they missed an opportunity to make the position of the plate adjustable in relation the rails. That would also solve the problem. As opposed to finding a new router, I wonder if you could fabricate and retrofit some spacers or new carriage side plates to provide crude adjustment in the Z axis.

[Tom Levy]

Maybe look at the other end of the bit and get something a little longer on the cutting side, what's the CL of the current bit? Plenty of options for different length straight bits for cheap you could test.

[Aaron Inami]

The DW618 is a fixed base router. Are you looking for a plunge router? Generally, I have found that any router will usually drop the collet all the way to the material (unless you have an extra thick base mounted).

Maybe you want an extra long bit instead?

Total length: 5-1/2"
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/...oducts/1073-01


Bigger 1" cutting diameter, but total length of 3-3/4":
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/.../products/1095

[Mike King]

If you are going to dedicate the router to the slab mill, why not buy a CNC router motor and an appropriate router clamp? Less money, more depth, I bet.

Mike

[Jim Becker]

What is the ~ max depth of cut you were able to achieve with the DW618, just to give us a reference?

This isn't about depth of actual cut...it's about having enough range to process one side without having to stop to block up the material further. Depth of cut will never be more than about 6mm unless there's an anomaly on the rough slab to cut through.

I don't get it. Why not use your OF1400 in the flattening jig? You just screw it on to the jig, right? So going from handheld use to flattening use is just a matter of a couple screws, right?

Because I have no desire to mount/dismount my primary router from the jig. Personal preference.

So you want a router that extends the collet well below the base? Order a spare set of bearings when you find that router. Hand held routers are not designed to spin these large diameter cutters, well below the base, for long cycle times

It's a 2" cutter with replaceable inserts, not some big propeller. Not worried about that ... I'm seeking about a half inch more travel than I have now with the DW618. I'm sorry I was not clear about that in the OP. I'm actually am familiar with the issues with long cycle times for router motors which is one reason why my CNC machine has a spindle. Anything shorter than 50" and no wider than 49" will get surfaced on my CNC. This fixture is just for longer material or surfacing off table tops, etc. (It's also a saw table for cutting long things with the tracksaw as well as a big clamping/assembly table)

Maybe look at the other end of the bit and get something a little longer on the cutting side, what's the CL of the current bit? Plenty of options for different length straight bits for cheap you could test.

I already have the longest 2" insert cutter typically available. It's not an issue with CL...it's more about total tool height and at 3.5" in length, that's pretty much where they stop. As noted in another reply, I need about a half inch more vertical travel to reduce the resetting of material.

If you are going to dedicate the router to the slab mill, why not buy a CNC router motor and an appropriate router clamp? Less money, more depth, I bet.

1) Expense...spindles, at least decent ones, are quite expensive and this is an "occasional" tool. 2) I'd have to fabricate a whole "Z axis" to be able to use a spindle with the the fixture.

-----
So to clarify for everyone, I'm interested in knowing about routers in the 12-15 amp categories that have maybe a half inch or more vertical travel than the DW618 I used for my initial go with the fixture. The physical base of any router used on a fixture like this is not touching the material...the material surface is always going to be some distance farther down than the router mounted on the carriage. I can block up the workpiece on the fixture bed within reason, but obviously, as passes are made to flatten and then thickness (from the other side) that distance increases.

[Rick Potter]

I notice no one has mentioned it, but have you considered extensions for your collet. I have no experience with them but some reviews are favorable. Rockler and Infinity both sell them.

[Jim Becker]

I notice no one has mentioned it, but have you considered extensions for your collet. I have no experience with them but some reviews are favorable. Rockler and Infinity both sell them.

Yes, I've considered it, but I'd prefer to get that extra little bit of vertical cutting without the level of runout that typically comes from collet extensions. While it's only a 2" diameter cutter involved, it's still a force multiplier.

[Bert McMahan]

I believe the Triton router can stick the collet out below its base, but I think it locks when it sticks out that far (for 1-wrench bit changes). Maybe you can get one of those and remove the locking mechanism? They're designed to be used as both a normal router and as a router table with integrated router lift since you can adjust the plunge mechanism while the router is inverted.

[Aaron Inami]

For reference, my Bosch 1618 D-Handle has a total movement of 1" from the highest point to the lowest point. The router collet will extend 1/8" past the bottom of the base after the collect has been tightened down. I suspect the current model 1617EVS will have similar movement capability since it's the same fixed-base design.

bosch_depth_1.jpg

bosch_depth_2.jpg

I have not seen fixed-base routers publish a "up/down movement specification", so you will probably have to rely on other users measurement of their personal routers. You might end up having to go the plunge-router direction if you want extreme up/down movement.