Aligning a CBN wheel to a Tormek BGM-11

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

Hi Folks,

I finally have a grinder set up for my sharpening - just need to put it all togethter.
For the record, and to give credit (or if my wife asks, blame) I put this together based off of a post from Derek Cohen's website http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...ningSetUp.html .

if this is the wrong forum, I apologize, I posted hear and not the woodturners because the issue is more of building the setup then the specs with the grinder itself.

Anyway:

normally, setting up the Tormek BGM 100 bar is easy. you need to shoot for parallel to the wheel, then you can use the bar from the BGM-100 and a diamond truing stone to align the wheel to the bar.

Since I like complicated I went and got a CBN wheel (180 grit Vicmark).
Since I can't true the wheel to the guide I need to align it precisely. if I use the Tormek jigs (not just freehand) it could lead to unintended skews

I was wondering if anyone has any brilliant ideas how to do this? I am mostly worried about the screw shifting alignment when I screw them in.
so far my plan is to use superglue and clamps, then drilling the pilot holes, then screw it in (after using a caliper for alignment).

If Derek reads this and is so inclined, I would greatly appreciate his feedback, as well as how difficult/critical this alignment is

Thanks,
Assaf

[Tom M King]

A small adjustable square. Just have to feel for it on both edges of the wheel. I wouldn't glue anything. There will be times you want to move the bar. Just hold down on the bar while you tighten the side with the adjustment after you get it right. You can feel less than a thousandth.

I just bought a Wen to hold me over until Tormek comes out with a reversible model, and that method works fine.

[Reed Gray]

Not sure what the issue is. The wheels should be almost perfectly round, and the hole perfectly centered, which means it should go on straight, square and true. Did you put it on and it is not running true?

robo hippy

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Folks,

I finally have a grinder set up for my sharpening - just need to put it all togethter.
For the record, and to give credit (or if my wife asks, blame) I put this together based off of a post from Derek Cohen's website http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...ningSetUp.html .

if this is the wrong forum, I apologize, I posted hear and not the woodturners because the issue is more of building the setup then the specs with the grinder itself.

Anyway:

normally, setting up the Tormek BGM 100 bar is easy. you need to shoot for parallel to the wheel, then you can use the bar from the BGM-100 and a diamond truing stone to align the wheel to the bar.

Since I like complicated I went and got a CBN wheel (180 grit Vicmark).
Since I can't true the wheel to the guide I need to align it precisely. if I use the Tormek jigs (not just freehand) it could lead to unintended skews

I was wondering if anyone has any brilliant ideas how to do this? I am mostly worried about the screw shifting alignment when I screw them in.
so far my plan is to use superglue and clamps, then drilling the pilot holes, then screw it in (after using a caliper for alignment).

If Derek reads this and is so inclined, I would greatly appreciate his feedback, as well as how difficult/critical this alignment is

Thanks,
Assaf

Hi Assaf

If I managed to get it all aligned, so will you.

As recall (it was a long time ago), I used a few oversized holes for screws, and this allowed for some fine adjustments.

Edit: Do not use superglue (or any glue) to align for screwing. You want to be able to move the parts for fine tuning. You may need to do this again in the future. I have only had to do it once in several years.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

Hi Reed, sorry if I wasn't clear.


the BGM-100 is the bar frame thing to place the jigs on, not the wheel or its arbor. the wheel runs true - no vibrations.

[Derek Cohen]

Assaf, if you look at my set up (on the right), you will note that the steel base is attached to a wooden block.





The wooden blade is screwed down firmly, but the steel section above can be adjusted via enlarged holes for the screws.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Reed Gray]

I see now...... Um, maybe run a straight edge across both wheels and line it up off of that. Not sure if the Tormek style arm is going to stay in place forever or if you will want to move it some times. Lots of ways to solve that. I was thinking that you were trying to line it up on the Tormek grinder. Can't remember, but I think some sharpening systems do have mounts for the Tormek arm thing...

robo hippy

[Tom M King]

I played around with the Wen just a little while ago. I found the easiest way to set the bar parallel to the wheel was to slide something metal and tapered between them. A chisel worked fine for the spacing I needed for what I was doing. I put a pencil mark on the chisel under the bar on the fixed side, and used that to judge the adjustable leg side. It did require tightening the knob two or three different times to get it to hold right, but didn't take long.

I like a reverse because I work different things going different ways. For hogging off (as best as it can be called that with a slow speed grinder) I like for the water to roll up over the edge. For things like turning tools, I like to see the edge where I'm working it so the wheel needs to be going the other way. I do a lot of grinding and sharpening just by hand using the bar as a fulcrum point, and don't want to spend time changing the bar and turning the machine around the other way. I want to just hit a switch. The $135 Wen has a reverse and is quite useable.

[Chris Parks]

The easiest way is to use the side of the wheel and a square, this also works for squaring blades if the sides of the blades are parallel. Place the blade in the tool holder, tighten lightly, place the side of the blade up against the side of the wheel and make sure it is flat against the wheel then tighten the tool holder. Because the side is perpendicular to the face the blade is now square without any fiddling with squares or other devices. I find the Tormek angle gauge is a must as well but another way to set the angle is to attach a digital angle finder to the back of the blade if the blade is long enough but often that is not the case.

[Tom M King]

The wheel on the Wen has a little wobble to it but the working edge runs true, so anything off the sides is futile. I don't expect perfect for 135 bucks. Feeling between the wheel and bar worked just fine.

[Mel Fulks]

I’ve wondered if the sides of grinder wheels are made wobbly to discourage grinding on the sides. They want you to use them like
you are supposed too. They know that people seldom blame themselves for their own stupidity.

[Chris Parks]

I’ve wondered if the sides of grinder wheels are made wobbly to discourage grinding on the sides. They want you to use them like
you are supposed too. They know that people seldom blame themselves for their own stupidity.

Fix the run out by using spherical washers, the runout is caused by poor tolerance between the nut and the shaft threads. I had to do that on mine and it now runs true.

[Mel Fulks]

Chris , thanks. I’m sure that works . But I have used wheels that that ran properly when used properly, but wobbled on the sides.
I think they just don’t want you grinding on the sides for liability reasons . I have worked in shops where the owner would fire guys for
grinding on the sides. Or not wearing safety glasses .

[Tom M King]

I think the hole was drilled and then they machined the outside, since it runs true there. Not worth the trouble to do anything to the sides wobbling.

It's a thick 10" wheel with a tight fit on the shaft. Spherical washers would do nothing. Also, at 150 rpm, the wheel exploding is not a worry.

It's a cheap knockoff of a Tormek, but it has a reverse. It really works pretty good.

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

I think the rule on side grinding is different with CBN wheels, mine is (I think) cast steel; it isn't going to implode any time soon