Which table saw should i keep

[Mike Cutler]

I would keep both.
I have pretty much the same setup you have, a hybrid, and a contractor saw.
The configuration that I have, has my Jet contractor saw acting as the outfield table for my General 220 hybrid saw, but it is oriented 90 degrees to the blade of the General. What this also allows me to do is have a very stable outfield table, and when I need to do cross cuts in longer material, I can use the General to support the weight of the wood, as I cross cut on the Jet. The fence of the Jet is not installed, and hasn't been in 20 years. This setup also allows me to have a saw setup for rip, and one setup for crosscuts, eliminating blade changes.
Every table saw, minus a slider, needs an outfield table. What better outfield table than another tablesaw.

Yes, a 3HP+ cabinet saw is definitely nice, and I would like one, but I have done some pretty big, and heavy, work with the two saws I have. If a person is primarily pushing 4/4 stock, and 3/4" plywood, through a saw, the two saws you have will serve them for a lifetime.

[Tom Bussey]

Just a note to Delta contractor saws. If you replace the factory bolts with grade 3 or grade 5 bolts, the saw going out of alignment problems will go away. You get bolt stretch with the common hardware bolts. Grade 3 and 5 bolts are hardened and do not stretch. I would tighten the bolts release them and retighten them. I had a delta saw, I changed bolts, and my saw stayed in alignment for 4 years until I sold it. Hybrid saw were not on the market at the time so I went straight to a cabinet saw.

I have since bought another Delta contractor saw, replaced the bolts and installed an Excalibur sliding table and I have not adjusted the a saw in 15 years. Like Mike I have two saws. But not a lot of people have room for two saws,. I am fortune enough to have the room. Don't try to justify the purchase if you want it just get it.

I own a 3 HP Saw Stop now. It is the best saw I have ever had, I sold a General 350 to get it. It is the last saw I will ever own. I like it that so much. It is not a big deal to go from 115 to 220 volts so I wouldn't let that be a factor. Personally I would bit the bullet and go straight to a new cabinet saw and skip the Hybrid.

[Rod Sheridan]

If he does that , then he's paying full price for the fusion saw. Still might be worth it, but perhaps not. It's certainly not the low cost upgrade that started this thread.

I assumed he would put the other fence on the Delta saw and sell it……Regards, Rod.

[Dave Sabo]

I assumed he would put the other fence on the Delta saw and sell it……Regards, Rod.

Even if he does that, it makes his Delta Contractor Saw less marketable/valuable and the upgrade costs more expensive.

[Rod Sheridan]

Even if he does that, it makes his Delta Contractor Saw less marketable/valuable and the upgrade costs more expensive.

True, however he winds up with a better and safer saw.

As in all things, it’s always a compromise……Regards, Rod

[Charles Lent]

Are you all aware that a Delta Contractor Saw motor is capable of 2 hp when connected for 240 volt power, but only 1.5 hp when connected for 120 volt power? Delta had these motors specially made so they could be used on a 15 amp 120 volt circuit when on the jobsite, but would provide a full 2 hp when connected to 240 volt power back in the contractor's shop.

The Unifence is much sought after and could be sold for about $200 or more if in good condition, even on it's own without the saw. Also, Peachtree Woodworking www.ptreeusa.com sells a square fence extrusion to fit the main Unifence casting. It has T Slots and a UHMW rub strip. I have one and switch fence shapes depending on my need, as the original fence has many benefits, but no T Slots.

For the ruler scale, you can buy replacement scales, or you can add a Wixey Digital Read-out to your existing Unifence. This will work with both the original fence extrusion or the Uni-T-Fence from Peachtree. Going digital for my woodworking was a complete game changer. My work always fits together now.

If you really feel that this other saw is an upgrade, switch the Unifence to this new saw and put the other on the Contractor Saw. This will, at least, give you the ability to enhance this Unifence with the fence upgrades that I have suggested. I have used a lot of saws and fences, and the best that I've ever used was a Unifence, especially after making these upgrades to it.

Charley

[Dave Sabo]

Are you all aware that a Delta Contractor Saw motor is capable of 2 hp when connected for 240 volt power………….

The Unifence is much sought after and could be sold for about $200 or more if in good condition………

For the ruler scale, you can buy replacement scales,…………….

If you really feel that this other saw is an upgrade, switch the Unifence to this new saw and put the other on the Contractor Saw.……………

Charley

Guess you didn’t read any of the previous posts

the ones in which :

- the o.p told us he doesn’t have 240v

- the one in which the uni-t-fence was already hotlinked

- the one in which the value of the unifence was broached

- and the one where it was already suggested he swap the fences

You also (presumably) don’t take into account budget. There’s always a better upgrade to be had , even better than your suggestion………….but at what cost ? See the previous comment on how a slider would be even better. This was a simple ask about whether the hive thought the Laguna was worth 2-300 bucks to solve some issues the o.p. had; not a broad “what would be better than a delta cs for $500, $5000, or $50,000 “

When you’re spending other people’s money it’s easy to “ya might as well” upgrade them to something bigger, better, shinier, safer, faster , and more prestigious. It all starts with : “do this, it’ll only cost a few hundred more”. Rod , this is part of my issue with your suggestion. The other is that not everyone thinks the unifence (or other hi/low) fences are the bees knees.

[Robert Weinstein]

Thanks again to all of you. If i like the way the Laguna cuts i will keep it.