Black tongue and groove ceiling

[Stefano Belotti]

Hello everyone, my name is Stefano, and I'm a new user on the forum.A few weeks ago, I came across a video on YouTube where I saw a stunning black wooden ceiling, and I immediately fell in love with it.

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I decided to try and recreate it in my apartment, so I purchased some tongue and groove fir woods and started working on it.
I must confess that I have no prior knowledge of wood or woodworking techniques, but I was captivated by the ceiling's aesthetic and the remarkable craftsmanship involved in working with wood, leading to countless beautiful outcomes.Perhaps I was a bit rash in diving headfirst into something completely unfamiliar to me, but my passion pushed me to give it a shot nonetheless.
I gathered information from various online sources and did my best to comprehend the process, but the final result clearly indicates my lack of understanding.
Allow me to outline the steps I followed based on my understanding, although I acknowledge that I might not have grasped all the necessary nuances:

• I meticulously sanded all the planks using an orbital sander with 80, 120, and 180 grit sandpaper.
• After each sanding session, I sprayed a fine mist of water on each plank to raise the wood fibers that had been compressed by the sander, subsequently re-sanding them with the next level of grit.
• I procured a black water-based wood stain, specifically the Rubio Monocoat PreColor Easy Black, as well as a finishing oil, the Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C Black. As far as I understand, these products are specifically designed for parquet.
• Prior to applying the black stain, I diligently cleaned each planks with mineral spirits.
• I applied two coats of the black stain, allowing sufficient drying time between each coat, followed by a single coat of the black oil, adhering to the manufacturer's instructions regarding application techniques.

Regrettably, the outcome is far from satisfactory, and it did not meet my expectations.First and foremost, I am aware that the wood used in the video that inspired me is likely not fir, but a more valuable timber, which undoubtedly influences the final result.To begin with, these are the planks treated solely with the black water-based stain.

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In my opinion, they appear rather unattractive—dull and exhibiting an odd play of light, almost as if the surface shines in certain areas, creating a displeasing effect. Even the bare planks, without the black stain, retain this underlying sheen that I find undesirable. I would like to ascertain whether it can be eliminated or if it is an inherent characteristic of fir.
The following image provides a closer look at one of the plank, still treated exclusively with the black stain. The wood exhibits a spongy texture, which might account for the sporadic glossy effect. I have read that fir indeed possesses notably large pores. However, given my limited knowledge, it is possible that I either inadequately sanded the wood or overlooked certain preliminary steps.

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This is how the plank appears after applying the oil.

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It exudes a "tar-like" appearance, resembling plastic and lacking a natural feel. Additionally, the porosity and luminous effects persist. I find myself uncertain. I am not particularly satisfied with the outcome.My initial expectation was to achieve a result akin to that of a parquet floor, but the current state falls far short of that vision. Under suitable lighting conditions, I must admit that it does have a certain appeal. However, it necessitates finding the precise lighting and angles to present it in a favorable manner.

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Considering the considerable amount of time and resources invested, I am hesitant to settle for an unsightly outcome. Moreover, I am unwilling to abandon the project after expending such effort, although I must confess that I am currently disheartened.
Therefore, I turn to you for guidance. If anyone can provide me with advice, I would be immensely grateful.

[Frederick Skelly]

Stefano, that will sure be an interesting look. May I ask, do you own the apartment in which you plan to install this ceiling? If not, do you have approval to install this? Where I live, such a dramatic change might upset the typical landlord.

I am not a finishing expert, so consider this only an idea: I wonder if using mineral spirits is somehow interfering with the penetration of the stain. Perhaps you could sand a piece of scrap and try the stain again to see whether it improves.

Another idea to try on a piece of scrap - use India Ink instead of your current stain. Here is a
LINK. A couple years ago I made a butcher block with black legs using ink for the stain. The finish was very “black” and consistent.

Those are my thoughts. I wish you good luck.
Fred

[Stefano Belotti]

Hi Frederick, thank you for taking the time to respond. It means a lot to me. I would like to confirm that the apartment is indeed mine, granting me the freedom to furnish it according to my personal preferences. Currently, I have only managed to paint a third of the planks, which implies that I still have an abundance of materials to conduct further tests. Following your advice, I will make an effort to refrain from using mineral spirits and observe if there are any noticeable changes in the outcome. The idea of utilizing ink appears quite appealing, although I am curious to know whether it is capable of producing a deep black hue akin to the one showcased in the original post's photographs. Additionally, I am curious if it would be feasible to apply the Rubio Monocoat Oil 2C Plus Black on the inked planks. Thanks again for your help.

[Lee Schierer]

The question is whether you wish to see the wood grain or completely cover the wood grain. Any stain applied to fir is going to have an uneven appearance showing the grain clearly. If you want a uniform color without the variations you are currently seeing, then paint is what you will need. Then the choice is how much or how little gloss you want. Most ceilings use a flat paint finish so you get little if any shine from lights. The first photo in your original post looks like the ceiling is painted. Unless the wood is tongue and groove, you are likely to see light colored streaks where gaps occur. These can be avoided by painting the dry wall ceiling black before you start. If you paint the boards, you can fill in any voids or defects with wood putty to get a more even surface.

Painting and sanding the boards before hanging them would make the job easier. You can touch up the boards as needed once they are in place. You'll want to stagger the joints unless your boards all run the full length of the ceiling. It will look better than having one long seam. If you take down what you have, be sure to pull the nails out the back side to do less damage to the wood.

[Tom Bender]

The video you saw was probably made with ideal lighting.

It might be better if you didn't sand at all.

As with many things, test on scrap first until you get the result you want.

Have you considered how you will finish the edges? Some trim might be best, but how will you finish that? Test this too.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I've done dozens of black ceilings.
I always just used flat black latex wall paint, applied with an airless sprayer.

It has to be a dead black - as black as it can be. Anything that shows other than black can ruin the illusion that black provides. Anything with any contrast can ruin the illusion - contrast such as lighter streaks of wood tone showing through - which is why it's vital to use paint and not a stain.

While darker colors will draw the surface towards you - and make the room look smaller and the ceiling lower, black will give the appearance it is receding to eternity - making the room appear larger and the ceiling higher. The trick only works if the walls and floor are lighter so - if you do both walls and ceiling you just end up with a cramped box.

This was information I had been told by the Glidden Paint Color Studio - the design studio that Glidden Paint company had on staff for interior designing on major projects all across the country.
They specified back for the ceiling on a particular job and I asked why.