Roubo Top Question

[Steve Catts]

All,
I am in the finishing stages of a Roubo bench...Hallelujah!!

I ended up using SYP for my wood because, well, budget. Though I have some good hard boards on my slabs, I've started to explore if there are ways to add some hardness to minimize lesser dents and dings. I've learned about Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant (CPES) as a means to do this. Has anyone used CPES for this purpose? I don't want a slick bench...will probably not sand past 120 or so.

For those familiar with CPES, does it only penetrate and leave the surface texture or will it create a slick epoxy surface? Also, as I've looked at it, it seems to only come in large quantities. Is anyone aware of sources for smaller quantities?

Many thanks, I can obviously put a penetrating varnish on the 120 surface for some hardening, just hoping to find something more robust.

Steve

[Jim Morgan]

CPES is available in small (quart) quantities at http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/Cart/index.html

It penetrates into the wood without leaving a particularly slick surface and can be topcoated with a variety of materials once it has cured. Don't know how much it actually increased surface hardness.

Penetration is achieved by adding various (toxic) solvents to epoxy resin. I'd be wary of using this indoors; in any event, wear a respirator.

[James Jayko]

I used CPES on a mahogany Adirondack chair. Works great, chair has been outside for five years and looks like the day I built it...

It is HIGHLY nasty stuff; I think the packaging said it wasn't even legal for use in California. Be very careful re. ventilation; I did it in a huge basement work shop and I wasn't right for three days...

[Tom M King]

I see no reason at all to use the time and expense on a bench top, unless it's going to be left outside.

[Andrew Hughes]

That’s doesn’t make sense a good handtool bench will need to be flatten occasionally if your using it to hand plane wood.
Dont add anything to make that job harder.
If you find the wood you choose is too soft make a new one with hardmaple.
It just weird how epoxy is used so much in woodworking.
Good Luck

[Christian Hawkshaw]

My bench (10 years old now) is made of SYP and it has held up fine. It does not ding too badly, and I would rather have my bench softer than the wood of the projects I am working on. I just used Watco Danish Oil for a sealer...It helps keep any accidentally spilled glue (PVA) from sticking too bad.

[Jim Becker]

I don't put anything more than an application of BLO on my benches for the reason someone stated above...the workbench top needs to be maintained over time. Film finishes are just not the way to go with a "user" surface like that.

[Mark Rainey]

I used CPES on a mahogany Adirondack chair. Works great, chair has been outside for five years and looks like the day I built it...

It is HIGHLY nasty stuff; I think the packaging said it wasn't even legal for use in California. Be very careful re. ventilation; I did it in a huge basement work shop

James, I am impressed that CPES works great on your chair. Could it be the holy grail for outdoor furniture? or perhaps your chair does not get much sun? I know of no good finish for outdoor furniture, only uncomfortable compromises. I use outdoor oil on my heartwood cherry chairs. With a north exposure and a lot of shade I can get away with 2 oil recoats per season. With southern exposure, forget about it. After about 2 months the sun has done it's damage.

The manufacture says that CPES is NOT UV resistant.

Many experts say forget the finish and let it weather to gray.