Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: 60 or 80 tooth blade for a RAS?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,347

    60 or 80 tooth blade for a RAS?

    What is the optimal number of teeth on a 10" RAS negative rake blade for cross-cutting the usual N American woods? - oak, birch, walnut etc?

    Any brand recommendations?

    There is an 80 tooth CMT blade on Jeff's website for $83, and a 60 tooth Oshlun for $56. Any opinions on those two, for instance?

    thanks, Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    2,460
    I think these are fantastic.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MQOOGI

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    662
    Don’t own a tablesaw. Instead I’ve got 3 RASs, setup for crosscut, rip and dado. The crosscut has a Forrest Woodworker I 10 x 60t as designed by Mr. Sawdust. Very clean cut. No experience with an 80t RAS blade, but I replaced the OEM Makita 80t blade on my sliding miter saw with a Forrest Chopmaster 80t. In retrospect, the Makita blade is very impressive and close to the Chopmaster in cut quality.

  4. #4
    I have two vintage dewalts and love the Freud LU83R010 combo blades on them. Crosscut and rip surprisingly well which is important for me as I switch between the two. As I understand d the negative hook thing is a myth.

  5. #5
    If you are looking for the cleanest cut 80 teeth will be better but slower. I generally think of radio alarm saws as rough cutoff tools but a good one dialed in will work well with a full-kerf high ATB negative rake blade. The negative rake definitely helps cut down self-feeding. Ripping is not something I like to do on an ras but if necessary a negative rake is safer as it generates less uplift.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,347
    I will only be cross-cutting on this saw. Absolutely NO ripping or other actions.
    From all I've read, other than the reply from Jeston, a negative rake is slower but safer, and I like that. I have plenty of 80 T cross-cut blades for the table saw, but I'd prefer to get the correct blade for this RAS now.

    So I guess the question still stands - 60 or 80 tooth blade, or does it really matter?
    thanks.
    Last edited by Mark Gibney; 06-02-2023 at 9:26 AM. Reason: clarification

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,957
    The low count Oshlun blades I have on my big timber framing circular saws leave a surface almost as good as the best Forrest blade. I have no idea how long they last in comparison to anything else though. Other than that, I'd flip a coin.

  8. #8
    I use the Freud Thin Kerf Sliding Compound Miter Saw Blade on my RAS and SCMS
    https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU91M010
    They are less aggressive but I've never had an issue with them being any slower, milliseconds maybe.
    I also use the Ultimate cut off blade
    https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU85R010
    Either one will work fine for crosscutting with a RAS

    The negative hook angle is a product of geometry and physics, it's not a myth.
    JMO

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,236
    Mostly I buy FS Tools blades.

    I would select 60 teeth for a 10” blade…..Regards, Rod

  10. #10
    radial should have a negative rake. The wadkin came from a school with a Royce Ulitma neg rake. Schools try to do stuff right cause of insurance reasons. If people would keep their arm straight there would be no climbing. Instead if a saws climbs elbow pivots allowing it to climb. Cheap radials will climb more cause of flex. British cabinetmaker taught us about straight arm when using them.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,347
    I'm learning a lot from this discussion, and that's led to another question.
    There is a CMT 60 tooth blade I like and it has four ATB teeth, then one TCG tooth.
    Is this a good tooth combo for cross-cutting? - my tablesaw blades have all ATB teeth, no TCG.

    thanks again, Mark

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    West of Chicago
    Posts
    19
    I've been using a Freud LU91R010 for a number of years on my old Craftsman RAS. It's a 60 tooth thin kerf blade with neg 5-degree hook designed for Sliding Compound Miter Saws.
    https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU91R010

    For anyone that thinks negative hook blades are a myth, you've probably not done much crosscutting on a RAS (or SCMS) with both types of blades. I've been using that RAS since I bought it new 45 years ago. When I switched to a neg hook blade, it was like I bought a new saw. Much less tendency to jump into the wood on crosscuts and self feed. Feels much safer, controllable and the cuts are really smooth. Like any blade, there is going to be a little tear out on the bottom side of the cut.

  13. #13
    IMHO, a 60t quality blade, negative or 0 hook angle is optimum to reduce self feed tendencies in thicker material. But, IME a 5deg works well up to 3/4" stock with minimal self feed. But, don't use it until it's dull, as self-feed can happen then. I think the original blade recommended by Mr. Sawdust was a 5deg blade.

    I like 60t, as most radials are somewhat less HP than table saws and higher tooth counts seem to need more power, especially in thick stuff.
    .
    My first radial, way back about '69 was a 9", and it got framing quality steel blades, low tooth count and had about 3/4HP, Worked well until they dulled, then the self feed kicked in and could actually climb to the top of a 3/4 board while bending the aluminum arm up that amount. Didn't keep that one long!

    Later saws, 10, 12 and 14" models never self fed like that, mostly due to getting better blades and having really rigid frames/arms.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,347
    "I like 60t, as most radials are somewhat less HP than table saws and higher tooth counts seem to need more power, especially in thick stuff."

    Thanks Ken, I went with that explanation and bought a 60 tooth.

  15. #15
    I prefer a Forrest WW1.Been using it for years. You do not see any teeth swirls. It is kept on my Radio alarm saw as Kevin Jenness likes to call it. I have ripped with it but since I have a table saw two feet away I see no need to. Most of the time I cross cut with a Forrest 40 tooth WW11and a miter gage. But every thing hinges on overhang. To much overhang and it go to the RAS or to my table saw with an Excalibur slidding table. Either way they are cut with a Forrest WW1 blade. I like it especially for plywood. Don't own a 80 tooth blade, or a compound miter saw.
    Tom

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •