Advice for how to seal two removable tops that set 90 degrees to each other

[Brian Runau]

Building two tables for sewing for my wife. Longer table has 4 legs, shorter table has 2 legs and the non leg skirt fastens to the skirt on the longer table with furniture pins. Both tops are 30" deep. My plan is to use threaded inserts in the bottom of the tops and hold the tops down using these. I want this set up so I can disassemble and reassemble.

My plan is the set the tops in the two tables. Longer table top will run the full length with 1" overhang over the leg. Shorter table top will butt into the longer top and hang over it's leg 1". In this way there is no leg in the front corner when assembled. After I assemble the tops I plan to route the tops with a round over bit. No stain, just Arm-r-seal as a finish.

My conundrum is, how do I apply the final sealer coat on the tops. I can't do it when they are assembled since I want to be able to disassemble them. How do I seal them individually without the sealer getting on the side(s) that butt together? Thanks Brian

sewing table.jpg

[Stan Calow]

Masking tape?

[Brian Runau]

Masking tape?

I thought about frog tape, but wasn't sure how well it would seal or what the edge would like like. brian

[Brian Tymchak]

My preference would be seal those edges, particularly the end grain. .Is your concern that sealed edges that butt together will stick and be hard to disassemble? I think with sufficient cure time, ArmRSeal should not stick to itself. ARS cures to a decent hardness.

[Brian Runau]

My preference would be seal those edges, particularly the end grain. .Is your concern that sealed edges that butt together will stick and be hard to disassemble? I think with sufficient cure time, ArmRSeal should not stick to itself. ARS cures to a decent hardness.

Silly ? Would it add enough thickness to each end, 6 coats total that when I butted them together it would show a gap of some sort where you could see it was not the wood butted together? This might throw off the rounded edge right where it fits together in the front corner? Thanks brian

[John Ziebron]

Brian, I made this 90 degree computer desk a while ago. I used 4 steel pins for locating the 2 sections to ensure the tops were even when fastened together. That wasn't as precise as I had hoped but I used the old method of corner cleats with slotted holes to secure the tops. That allowed me to use small shims as needed to even the tops. I finished both sections seperately with 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal, including the sides that mate together, and had no issues with build up causing a problem where the tops come together. I realize that as sewing table it will get more wear than my desk but I wouldn't go any more than 4 coats. You can always lightly sand and refresh it down the road.
front view.jpg

[Brian Runau]

Brian, I made this 90 degree computer desk a while ago. I used 4 steel pins for locating the 2 sections to ensure the tops were even when fastened together. That wasn't as precise as I had hoped but I used the old method of corner cleats with slotted holes to secure the tops. That allowed me to use small shims as needed to even the tops. I finished both sections seperately with 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal, including the sides that mate together, and had no issues with build up causing a problem where the tops come together. I realize that as sewing table it will get more wear than my desk but I wouldn't go any more than 4 coats. You can always lightly sand and refresh it down the road.
front view.jpg

John, thanks for your help. Much appreciated. Brian

[Brian Tymchak]

Silly ? Would it add enough thickness to each end, 6 coats total that when I butted them together it would show a gap of some sort where you could see it was not the wood butted together? This might throw off the rounded edge right where it fits together in the front corner? Thanks brian

Not silly. I didn't think about that perspective. I don't think 6 coats would necessary on the endgrain. Maybe just a couple to eliminate most of the moisture xfer. You could apply the ARS to the edge /endgrain prior to routing the edge profile to assure alignment.