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Thread: Power and hand together (5): Bowed drawer fronts

  1. #1
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    Power and hand together (5): Bowed drawer fronts

    All the dovetailing was completed while everyone was napping.



    The drawer fronts had been left deep enough to create the bow front. The drawers were fitted into the case and clamped to prevent movement. The top was then marked in ...



    ... and then flipped over and marked underneath ...



    The alignment can be seen here ...



    Next the waste along the curve was bandsawn away.



    A block plane traversed across the board to shape down to the lines, working inwards from both sides.



    And cleaned up with a scraper ...



    It's a good fit ..





    All the drawer parts are pulled apart once again, and the inside curve of the drawer front is marked from the front ...



    The waste is removed with the bandsaw, as before.

    I've used blue tape here to make the waste easier to see ...



    ... and the Stanley shoulder plane does a great job of traversing the curve.

    Coarse clean up with a thick scraper ...



    .. and followed by smoothing with a thin one.



    The curve also removed part of the groove for the drawer front. This is replaced using a router plane ...



    Note that the curved bandsawed waste is used to rest the curved drawer front on.
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 05-28-2023 at 12:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    Now the drawer is ready for re-assembling, just minus the slips for the drawer bottom (which can be seen in this picture - making them will be the next chapter).





    Close up ...



    Next: Making of slips, fitting the drawer bottom (with a matching front curve), and completion of drawers.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #3
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    Those look very nice! What method did you use to cut and smooth the curves? Never mind, I just scrolled up and saw! Somehow I missed that bit. I've never made a broad curved drawer front, but have admired Bombe Chests, but don't know much about the methods used.

    DC
    Last edited by David Carroll; 05-28-2023 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Look first, then ask.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Carroll View Post
    Those look very nice! What method did you use to cut and smooth the curves? Never mind, I just scrolled up and saw! Somehow I missed that bit. I've never made a broad curved drawer front, but have admired Bombe Chests, but don't know much about the methods used.

    DC
    David, scrapers ... as in the photos.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
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    LOL!

    Looking good Derek.

    Enjoyed the pictures and the text.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  6. #6
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    Derek your tolerances are "scary close" Seems like humidity would lock the drawers shut for a season

  7. #7
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    No Tom. I choose my wood carefully. Everything in a drawer is quarter sawn. Very stable. Movement is directed up, not laterally.

    The drawers open and shut with one finger on a corner.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #8
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    What is the reason for the thin sides and thus the need for the slips?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Zellers View Post
    What is the reason for the thin sides and thus the need for the slips?
    Dave, there are two reasons I acknowledge:

    1. The drawer will be lighter. Lighter is better in regard to the action of opening and closing a drawer.

    2. Elegance (although this may be a value judgement for some, in the same way that hand cut dovetails, or even dovetailing, is a chosen aesthetic). I generally only use slips on drawers of importance.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  10. #10
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    Thanks. Pretty much what I figured- just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Beautifully done.

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