[OP]
Member
Good evening, I’m new to vintage machinery and I’m desperate for information on a Yates American B44 planer I just purchased. I’ve searched all over vintage machinery and other resources but there seems to only be a sales brochure I can find on them! I’d love a service manual. Does anyone have any special resources for these old machines?
thank you in advance for any help!
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Austin Gorby
Contributor
I had one of those, magnificent machine. It's about the same as any other machine of that vintage. Set if up like all other planers and if there is a zerk, grease it. I called Yates-American about all the tear out I was getting and they told me that machine I had was set up for soft wood and the blade angle was wrong for hardwoods. They told me to have the sharpener put a 10 degree bevel on the front of the blade and it made it the perfect machine. Yates-American is still in business you know. They are located in Beloit, WI
Contributor
I have a similar looking American Sawmill Monarch 24 x 8 circa 1945. 3 rows of 2 adjustments on top. Row closest to the infeed side- infeed, middle pressure bar, back out feed rollers. A set of magnetic knife holders are a huge help. Set the infeed the same height as the cutterhead then drop it 1/2 turn. Set out feed the same as cutterhead then drop 1/4 turn.. Set the pressure bar the same height as cutterhead. Run a test board. While board is planing adjust pressure bar - if stops the board raise it. If you get chatter lower it.
Contributor
B 244 looks similar to me. You can look through these links. I think there is really only one or two publications but multiple postings.
Bill D.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2510
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2510
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5091
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=3361
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2161
Contributor
Note some of those links call it a surfacer not planer?
Bill D
Member
Service manuals for industrial owwm are rare. Usually a parts diagram is about the best you can hope for.Originally Posted by Austin Gorby
What issue are you trying to address?
Member
I almost bought one a handful of years back for $500 but it was just too big for my tiny shop. It weighs around 3k #, iirc.
I remember doing the research and seeing some posts about them compared to the 244 on owwm.org , but I don’t remember there being a ton of info about this particular model. Unless something fundamental is broken I don’t know that you would have many/any issues with a machine of this build.
If you are new to setting up a planer like this then Bob Vaughan’s planer article may be of help in general. I don’t have a link but searching for that online may be enough to get you there as it has been shared multiple places online.
Still waters run deep.
Contributor
Second the tip on a 10* face bevel on the knives for reducing tearout.
Contributor
Third on the back bevel
[OP]
Member
Thank you all for your comments, suggestions and links! As far as I know, the machine should not have any mechanical issues (don’t have 3 phase power yet to confirm function since it was delivered, but it functioned before purchase). I’m interested at some point to have the confidence to tear it apart and clean it/ give it a makeover. I mainly would like a manual to help troubleshoot issues if they arise in the future, but as mentioned before, they really aren’t overly complex machines. Would anyone be able to tell me what these machines would’ve been used for in the Air Force? I didn’t realize until after purchase it had a tag stating property of the US Air Force.
I was going to purchase all new equipment for a weekend woodworking shop, but couldn’t pass on the opportunity to get some real American machinery for the same price or cheaper even. Last weekend we picked up a 1961 Oliver 166 CD (16”) Jointer and this Saturday we’re heading to Pittsburgh to pick up a Tannewitz 36” bandsaw. Thankfully there’s some really good info out there for those machines!
also, thank you for the back bevel trick for the planer. From the research I’ve done, it allows the user to do more figures woods without tear out- correct? Would it be risky to attempt end grain with that method still, perhaps with lighter passes?
thank you guys again!
Contributor
I’m sure the “back bevel “ helps. But probably on the lowest grade knives , as that is what comes with most machines. T-1 or M-2
steel is what’s needed. Never seen a new planer with good knives; but as long as all the manufacturers use junk ….they will be OK.
Most “in the know “ ….know to remove the stock knives and use them for hacking through ‘Robinson Crusoe’ Island conditions, or just emergency replacement of broken “weed -eater”.
Contributor
whats the front of the blade? the bevel side? Past moulding company owner that had two told me they put a secondary bevel on at times and that it sometimes cut cleaner on figured woods as it cut more like a wedge. I had told him I hone my knives when back from sharpening and they are dangerous sharp but its not a guarantee of perfect clean cuts on some figured stuff.
Contributor
Normal bevel on the back of the blade, short 10 degree bevel on the front.
Contributor
Even fine planers are ,or were sold with cheap poor quality steel. Couple shops I worked in used the low grade knives . In one my
employments the owner had everyone planing material then sanding a lot on a “wide-belt”to remove tear-out. Took a lot of time. Told him his
knives were no good . He said “Don’t tell me that I just bought 2 new sets”. Told him to buy some M2 or T1 knives and try them. “If
you don’t think they are much better I will buy them from you at full price”. He had assumed that pretty much all planer knives were alike and tear -out was to be expected. The planer instructions recommended “ use only our fine steel knives”. I asked a guy in
machine sales why all the planers came with lousy knives. He said, “ they are afraid that if they put in high grade steel they will lose
sales to another company”
Contributor
I have what I call a face bevel on the front face of the knives, opposite the primary bevel. This gives a lower rake angle and better results on figured wood at the cost of slightly higher power/heat/noise. Same principal as in bench planes.
Steel quality will determine how long the knives will remain sharp/usable but I believe the attack/rake angle will be the primary influence on tearout.
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