Checks/cracks at the stile of wooden exterior door

[mreza Salav]

I have a nagging suspicion that this might cause moisture to be trapped inside. Moisture won't stay entrapped - it will out, one way or another. So I'm wondering whether the door will need to be dismounted [unhinged?] as set in a controlled environment for a while to allow the moisture to exit. Then seal the bottom end grain.

Our weather here right now isn't too humid yet (in fact we have had a bit of a dry spring so far). So I think the moisture level isn't too high.

[Jeff Roltgen]

Product recommendation: Smith & Company CEPS (clear epoxy penetrating sealer). Designed for such applications, water thin for fast, deep absorption and should follow those fissures very well.

Jeff

[Kent A Bathurst]

Our weather here right now isn't too humid yet (in fact we have had a bit of a dry spring so far). So I think the moisture level isn't too high.

All tickety-boo, then.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Product recommendation: Smith & Company CEPS (clear epoxy penetrating sealer). Designed for such applications, water thin for fast, deep absorption and should follow those fissures very well.

Jeff

Rather expensive, but it is amazing. It is made for applications like this (in my opinion).

[mreza Salav]

I talked to people at west system and explained the task and my plan (to use 105 system). He said many do use it for that purpose and suggested I can thin it down by adding 5% solvent (acetone or alcohol) for the first initial coat for deep penetration.

[andy bessette]

I talked to people at west system and explained the task and my plan (to use 105 system). He said many do use it for that purpose and suggested I can thin it down by adding 5% solvent (acetone or alcohol) for the first initial coat for deep penetration.

I have never heard of them recommending diluting their product with solvent. Who did you speak with there, if you don't mind?

[mreza Salav]

Don't remember the name of the agent but I asked for their technical department to ask specific questions about products and their use.

[andy bessette]

Thank you. I am extremely surprised to hear that the Gougeon Brothers team has actually recommended this as it was never mentioned in their book: "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Building". And I remember them stating to "never add anything to their epoxy that is not specifically recommended by us". WEST stands for "Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique". The material is specifically formulated to saturate wood without the need for solvents. It contains no solvents particularly so that there will be no solvents to evaporate and cause the mix to shrink; it cures by chemical reaction to the catalyst--not from evaporating solvents.

Having nearly 50 years of experience using their products I would never dream of diluting it, even after hearing this second-party recommendation. And still think it would be a grave mistake to do so, as the solvent is bound to become entrapped and sealed within the wood, with no way to escape once the epoxy has cured.

[Kevin Jenness]

Thank you. I am extremely surprised to hear that the Gougeon Brothers team has actually recommended this as it was never mentioned in their book: "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Building". And I remember them stating to "never add anything to their epoxy that is not specifically recommended by us". WEST stands for "Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique". The material is specifically formulated to saturate wood without the need for solvents. It contains no solvents particularly so that there will be no solvents to evaporate and cause the mix to shrink; it cures by chemical reaction to the catalyst--not from evaporating solvents.

Having nearly 50 years of experience using their products I would never dream of diluting it, even after hearing this second-party recommendation. And still think it would be a grave mistake to do so, as the solvent is bound to become entrapped and sealed within the wood, with no way to escape once the epoxy has cured.

Well, my 1985 edition of that book says nothing about prepping glue surfaces with 80# abrasives which is their current standard, so they may have learned a few things since then.

Thinning down West System resin in my experience results in a softer cured product. For penetration you may want to use a product specifically formulated for that application, like Smith's CEPS. I've never used it but it seems to have many acolytes.

[mreza Salav]

A Google search found the following document about thinning west system and the effects on Australia west system site.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sourc...FOLlMi-KJRqbPx

[andy bessette]

The very first line in that link reads: "“Can I thin WESTSYSTEM® epoxy so it will flow or penetrate easier?”The answer to that question is “yes, but not withoutconsequences.” Many of the advantages of thinningepoxy are offset by disadvantages in other areas ofepoxy performance."

That reads quite a bit differently than: "A WEST Systems technician recommended thinning with solvent."

[mreza Salav]

Isn't that strange....

[mreza Salav]

One more question before I undertake this task this weekend:
I have never been able to find a proper shoe/sweep and always used one of those U-shaped sweep ones for 1 3/4" doors and cut it into an L-shape and screwed from outside (as shown in the picture). One of the cracks is right over one of the screws so I want to make sure screw holes are also sealed. After considering several options I am thinking of: drilling a little larger holes (like 3/8" diameter) and then fill those holes completely with epoxy and then drill a smaller hole into that to accept the screws (so screw goes into epoxy instead of wood).
Does this sound a good solution? Am I overthinking this and is unnecessary or is a good change?

[Tom M King]

I was wondering if it would be better without that "sweep" on it. I have never used one. Is that something normal for snow country?

How about epoxying in threaded inserts and use machine screws?

Git Rot is a penetrating epoxy available in small quantities, but I have zero experience with it. Maybe Andy does.

https://www.amazon.com/Boat-Git-Rot-...5756130&sr=8-4

[mreza Salav]

I was wondering if it would be better without that "sweep" on it. I have never used one. Is that something normal for snow country?

How about epoxying in threaded inserts and use machine screws?

Git Rot is a penetrating epoxy available in small quantities, but I have zero experience with it. Maybe Andy does.

https://www.amazon.com/Boat-Git-Rot-...5756130&sr=8-4

Oh it is absolutely necessary in our cold climate, even tiniest amount of hole for air to seep in will form frost when it is -30C outside. The first year when I had built the door I bought a "better" quality anodized aluminum shoe from Pemko and the aluminum would form a frost from inside. So I switched to cheap vinyl ones and no problem.
I thought about using threaded inserts but then I'll have to drill even bigger holes and I'm not sure if with epoxy they would form a proper seal of the hole. I won't be replacing the door shoe very often (maybe once every 5 years)....