Can't get sharpening angle right

[Andrew Pitonyak]

All, I'm struggling to learn to sharpen my chisels.

Tim,

If you live near the center of Ohio and would you like a sharpening buddy shoot me a message and we can whip those chisels into shape at the angle you prefer. You will end up with a hollow grind because that is what my equipment generates (I start with a Tormek).

Andrew Pitonyak

[Luke Dupont]

Generally, when I get a new tool, I put it to my coarsest stone, holding it at the angle that my hand is used to (a tad less than 30 degrees. Maybe 28-29).

That's the "correct angle" for me. I ignore the factory grind and just grind till I get to the edge.

Everything else from there is preference. Do you use a microbevel? Full flat? Convex? Concave? It doesn't matter. There is no correct, right or wrong way.

I tend to prefer the simplest way, which is a simple flat, sometimes everso slightly convex bevel all the way to the edge. No microbevels. It's not wrong and it works just fine on both Western and Eastern tools.

Don't fret over the details. It's only a problem if, when you go to use the tool, you find it to be a problem.

[John C Cox]

Chisels often need to be tested in your own work cycle and on the wood you are working to determine what sharpening angles hold up well

For example, are you chopping with a mallet/hammer or are you pushing through a cut? Are your cuts heavier or lighter? Are you working hard, dense wood (like rosewood/bubinga) or soft wood (like cedar?). Are you working dirty wood or wood that contains natural silica, or fairly clean wood without silica? Plywood is a good example, as it is not particularly "hard," but the combination of alternating grain layers, glue, and a lot of included grit puts a massive beating on tool edges.

Another consideration is that the "perfection" of edges honed to specific angles in jigs often results in a lower edge life than the same bevel honed by hand. This is due to the natural imperfection in human motion leading to slightly rounded angles at the apex, which are considerably more durable.

So... Don't obsess too much. Try sharpening with the stuff you have.

If you feel like you need a jig, Veritas makes a very good one. All jigs, including theirs, have a learning curve to getting things set up right. If you go this route, I would recommend using it to grind out chips and edge damage on a coarse stone or sandpaper, but freehand hone your final edge on your finest stones.

[James Talbert]

Wabash Valley Tool Sharpening can professionally sharpen your wood chisels correcting the primary angle from 20 to 35 degrees your choice depending on what you are using your chisels for. Your chisels will come back very sharp with a straight / square edge. It will then be up to you to finish if needed with your stones and polish. When sending wood chisels just let us know what angle you want on them. We charge $4 a chisel. Just google Wabash Valley Tool Sharpening for our website and shipping information.

[James Talbert]

Wabash Valley Tool Sharpening can professionally sharpen your wood chisels correcting the primary angle from 20 to 35 degrees your choice depending on what you are using your chisels for. Your chisels will come back very sharp with a straight / square edge. It will then be up to you to finish if needed with your stones and polish. When sending wood chisels just let us know what angle you want on them. We charge $4 a chisel. Just google Wabash Valley Tool Sharpening for our website and shipping information.