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Thread: Which Sjobergs workbench: 1060 or 1450 ?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    SCal
    Posts
    1,478
    love my SJobergs bench, very durable, heavy....
    my only regret, they did not offer the Festool MFT hole sizes, 20mm, which is surprising, since that appears to be the new standard for ww's. not easy to ream out from 3/4" diam holes they provide. I found out the hard way....

  2. #17
    have two lengths of ulmias, prefer the longer one its more stable. Even so its fastened to a stair case to make it more stable. I some how survived with quick benches I made for many years then got the benches and wished I had done that many years before.

  3. #18

    Smile

    I thought I'd share my beginner's shopping list/hand tool starter kit. I haven't purchased anything yet. At this point, I'm still studying the market and trying to figure out what I need (including tool maintenance).
    My list was compiled from several sources (Youtube channels, websites such as Wood and Shop, etc).

    Regarding panel saws, I am still not clear whether I want to get two Western style saws (one rip, one cross cut) OR go for the more attractive price of a Japanese '2 in 1' saw. Whatever the final choice, it will also affect the saw sharpening equipment to some extent.

    I also have an 'Extras' section. Truth be told, I don't know which of these items are absolutely necessary and which would be nice to have (as a 'luxury'). For instance, I'm not sure how necessary a miter box would be. Should I throw in a few extra bench dogs, a 3/4” holdfast..? Of course one usually never has enough clamps (I already have a few though).

    Regarding whetstones, I already have a Belgian coticule (grit est. 4-8k). My hope is I can repurpose it for honing my hand tools and hopefully save a bit of cash! On the other hand, it might be on the small side (13 x 5 cm / 5 x 2 ") for this kind of use.

    Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome. Here is my list so far:


    • Jack plane: JUUMA Low angle (12°) n°5
    • Block plane: JUUMA low angle (12°)
    • Marking wheel gauge: VERITAS Dual Marking Gauge
    • Combination square: Starrett 10 mh-150
    • Panel saws:
      • Rip cut: PAX Crosscut Handsaw Thomas Flinn 560 mm (22 inch)
      • Cross cut: "PAX Ripcut Handsaw Thomas Flinn 510 mm (20 inch)
      • Alternative to the above: Japanese Ryoba 250 mm pull saw

    • Dovetail saw: VERITAS Fine-Tooth Dovetail Saw (pitch 1.3 mm, 20 TPI)
    • Bench chisels: WOOD LINE PROFI NAREX 6-part chisel (6, 10, 12, 16, 20 and 26 mm).
    • Mortise chisel: Narex heavy mortise Wood Line Profi
    • Marking knife
    • Joiner’s mallet
    • Sharpening tools:
      • Naniwa whetstone 1000 grit
      • Veritas MK.II honing guide
      • Naniwa 220 flattening stone

    • Sharpening for saws:
      • Saw vise
      • Saw files (size TBD)
      • Saw Sharpening File Holder
      • Bastard Mill File & File Jointer/edger

    • Extras:
      • Miter box and saw?
      • Bench dogs?
      • Clamps?
      • 3/4” Holdfast?
      • Other?...


  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    New Hampster, USA
    Posts
    130
    Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome. Here is my list so far:

    • Jack plane: JUUMA Low angle (12°) n°5
    • Sharpening tools:
      • Naniwa whetstone 1000 grit
      • Naniwa 220 flattening stone


      • 3/4” Holdfast?
      • Other?...

    Standard jack plane. A Stanley sweetheart circa 1918 or similar English plane is a good place to start. LN or Veritas if you have money to spend but the Stanley is lighter.

    No. 4 or 4-1/2 smoother with a York pitch frog. Again, an older used plane is a good place to start but go with the high quality new ones if you have money to spend.

    I don't understand how low angle jacks became so popular. Weren't they designed as specialty planes for end grain? Hard pass on the low angle jack. A standard Jack, York pitch smoother, and block plane will get you far.

    Diamond plates are much better than stones IMO. They last longer and don't require as much care.

    The holes in your Sjobergs workbench will be larger than 3/4" so you will probably need larger diameter holdfasts.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 06-01-2023 at 8:16 PM. Reason: fixed quote tagging

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,393
    1. Slow down. No rush. Buy only the bare minimum to cover the first couple projects, and keep the projects simple. For example - get the Ryoba and defer the western-style saws and all of the saw sharpening gear.

    2. "Cry Once". If you buy a Lie-Nielsen #62 low-angle jack, and a Lie-Nielsen 60-1/2 block plane, you will cry when you pay the bill, and never again. You will "Cry Once". If you buy cheaply made low-cost substitutes, you won't cry when you pay the bill, but you will cry every time you use them, and forever.

    3. Starrett-starrett-starrett. You can't make what you can't measure, accurately and repeatedly. Forget the 6" combo square, get the 12". And the 4" double-square. And the analog 6" dial calipers. I use each of these three every day. Cry Once.

    4. Some F-style clamps maybe 2 each 12" and 24". Couple 6" quick-grip clamps. To start. You'll get more as needed. Lots more. But you don't know today what style and size you need.

    5. Spear-point marking knife.

    6. 2 bench chisels and 1 mortise chisel, and a dirt-cheap mallet with plastic faces.

    7. You will get far more value from the Veritas micro-adjust marking gauge than you will ever get from the dual. You can get the dual as a second gauge when that solves your bottleneck on making mortise and tenon joints.


    Make some stuff. What you need next will become evident. Like finishing brushes, etc.? You need a high angle plane? Get a second blade for the 62 and give it a 40* secondary bevel. For tuning tenons, a Veritas or L-N router plane would be high my list.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    I own the 1450 (or what looks to be about the same as the 1450). I have had this for a very long time.

    Two items to note:

    I purchased the cabinet that goes under the bench. This is a great place to store things and it adds much needed weight to the bench. So, no matter what you get, I think you will probably want weight added to the workbench. Can you build your own? Yes, you probably can. Can you do it cheaper than what you would buy? Probably not. For me, there was also the part that I was not in a position to build my own (I lacked the skill at the time).

    Drawback to having the cabinet? Well, if you want to stick something very long down the dog hole, it can be a problem. This has not been a problem for me, meaning I have not needed to have something stick out more than a foot under my bench.

    My next complaint with the bench is the that the vice has a single metal piece sticking out the middle so if I have something wide, it will not drop down past the screw. Also, if you clamp on the side of the vice, you will want to stick on the other side of the vice so that it does not rack. It will still work, but is not good for the vice.

    I like that I can move the vices to different locations on the bench.


    If you look at a picture of the 1060 bench, you will notice that the vice has a wider black metal attachment on the back side where the handle attaches. I assume that this MIGHT help with racking a bit, but I have no experience to say that this is the case.

    Site unseen and untested, I would be inclined to with the 1450 and add the cabinet and the price is still about the same as the 1060. Note that the only reason I are about weight is mostly because I want it while hand planing wood. For most other things, it just does not matter.

    If you really need or want something to clamp wider stuff, built or buy a Moxon vise, it really made things such as hand cut dovetails easier. Then again, I found this works really well and I clamp it to my existing workbench and it can work as well for you

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQGK6pdMo_A&t=1s

    This is a "portable workbench" that uses the Micro-Jig dovetail clamps (I am a huge fan of these) and you can easily create something similar to a moxon vice. The clamps are expensive, but this is very versatile. Note that I also use these clamps for things like a jig I built from a piece of plywood to join board edges on my table saw (fastest method I have found without a jointer). Note that although I really like this bench and I have been using it for dovetails because it does offer some capabilities that my Moxon vice does not, my Moxon vice is faster to clamp down.

  7. #22
    Thank you all for your recommendations and comments.

    Regarding the workbench, the situation has evolved somewhat. While the 1060 had caught my eye and was my preferred choice (budget and quality wise), I came to realize that shipping was a factor I had greatly overlooked. It turns out that finding a store that carries that particular model AND has the logistics to ship such a bulky piece of equipment is not that simple. So in short, I had to pour cold water on the idea of getting the 1060 - it's just not available where I live - and backtrack a bit.

    Taking the shipping 'metric' into account this time, it boils down to two choices: the 1450 or the superior, but obviously more expensive, Nordic pro 1400. I'm not too keen on getting a cabinet straight away, while I do appreciate the convenience and extra weight it affords and many pointed this out, it's not in the cards for me right now. As a beginner, it's already quite expensive as it is, as I have to buy almost everything (tools + bench) from scratch, so I need to 'limit the damage' wherever I can and not go too overboard on this. So now, I'll have to decide between the 1450 (roughly same budget as the 1060) or for 200 smackers more, go for the superior 1400. My gut feeling is that I would be perfectly happy, as a novice, with the cheaper 1450.

    For my beginner's tool set, I took several of the recommendations onboard. In short, I'll go for Veritas planes (I'm not willing to go on a Lie-Nielsen wild goose chase, they're virtually impossible to find and I just can't be bothered).

    These are now the items I'm considering:


    • Veritas low angle jack and block planes with PM-V11 alloy (cry once )
    • Ryoba 250 saw
    • Dozuki saw
    • Veritas micro-adjust wheel: it seems like there's a "new" improved model - I'd like to get my hands on that one if I can...
    • 4 or 5 bench chisels
    • one mortise chisel
    • mallet of course
    • Starrett 4" double square + combo square
    • Veritas router plane
    • marking knife (the thinner the better?)
    • Veritas MKII honing guide
    • Naniwa 1000 grit whetstone
    • Atoma diamond lapping plate: seems like the 140 grit will do the job
    • 1 Gramercy 3/4" holdfast (I already have 4 clamps)


    I think it's shaping up nicely...Of course, it's a hefty sum (+ workbench) and truthfully it makes me feel a bit guilty, it's like a case of buyer's remorse but before the fact.
    I'll have to take the leap of faith soon enough...

    Cheers.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,950
    Greg, between those benches, it looks like the only real difference is the material and working height. The 1450 is made from Birch and says its 33.5” working height and the 1400 is made from Beech and says 35-7/16” working height. Between those two, the beech would be slightly harder (Beech 1300 / Birch 1260) but not enough to make the deciding factor. Beech is also heavier. Personally, I’d pin down the real height for them and decide which height was a better fit for your comfort. For me, I’d prefer the 33” height simply because it would be a better fit for me for most usage. I am building my bench at 33.5” because it’s a comfortable height for planing, but also it’s lower than my table saw. However, I also have another bench set at 38” that is more comfortable for other tasks. Beyond the height and material choice, you can build your own ballast box for either one if you need more weight for stability.

    Regarding all the other items on your list, don’t sweat the choices too much. My guess is that like the rest of us, you will change many of them over time as you use them. You find things you like and dislike about a tool through use. You will probably find that unless you are a collector, having every tool from a single manufacturer may not fit your needs either. I’m finding when it comes to planes that I like some items from Lie Nielsen, some from Veritas, some vintage Stanley Bailey, etc. I’m still dating my Lie Nielsen Chisels and so far it’s a love hate relationship. However, i haven’t found the right replacement yet either. I like the Veritas PMV11 ones and I also like the Two Cherries ones.

    Good luck which ever way you go.

    Regards, Greg

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Pezpollo View Post
    Thank you all for your recommendations and comments.

    Regarding the workbench, the situation has evolved somewhat. While the 1060 had caught my eye and was my preferred choice (budget and quality wise), I came to realize that shipping was a factor I had greatly overlooked. It turns out that finding a store that carries that particular model AND has the logistics to ship such a bulky piece of equipment is not that simple. So in short, I had to pour cold water on the idea of getting the 1060 - it's just not available where I live - and backtrack a bit.

    Taking the shipping 'metric' into account this time, it boils down to two choices: the 1450 or the superior, but obviously more expensive, Nordic pro 1400. I'm not too keen on getting a cabinet straight away, while I do appreciate the convenience and extra weight it affords and many pointed this out, it's not in the cards for me right now. As a beginner, it's already quite expensive as it is, as I have to buy almost everything (tools + bench) from scratch, so I need to 'limit the damage' wherever I can and not go too overboard on this. So now, I'll have to decide between the 1450 (roughly same budget as the 1060) or for 200 smackers more, go for the superior 1400. My gut feeling is that I would be perfectly happy, as a novice, with the cheaper 1450.

    For my beginner's tool set, I took several of the recommendations onboard. In short, I'll go for Veritas planes (I'm not willing to go on a Lie-Nielsen wild goose chase, they're virtually impossible to find and I just can't be bothered).

    These are now the items I'm considering:


    • Veritas low angle jack and block planes with PM-V11 alloy (cry once )
    • Ryoba 250 saw
    • Dozuki saw
    • Veritas micro-adjust wheel: it seems like there's a "new" improved model - I'd like to get my hands on that one if I can...
    • 4 or 5 bench chisels
    • one mortise chisel
    • mallet of course
    • Starrett 4" double square + combo square
    • Veritas router plane
    • marking knife (the thinner the better?)
    • Veritas MKII honing guide
    • Naniwa 1000 grit whetstone
    • Atoma diamond lapping plate: seems like the 140 grit will do the job
    • 1 Gramercy 3/4" holdfast (I already have 4 clamps)


    I think it's shaping up nicely...Of course, it's a hefty sum (+ workbench) and truthfully it makes me feel a bit guilty, it's like a case of buyer's remorse but before the fact.
    I'll have to take the leap of faith soon enough...

    Cheers.
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 06-07-2023 at 8:27 AM.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,393
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Pezpollo View Post
    Thank you all for your recommendations and comments.


    • Veritas low angle jack and block planes with PM-V11 alloy (cry once )


    You're welcome - recommendations are free, and it is always a pleasure to spend someone else's money and watch them cry.

    Veritas stuff is very good - you cannot go wrong there. I don't have any, except the shooting plane, which is great. No argument with your choices, I'm just an L-N person from a few decades back. Old dog. New tricks.

    You may want to consider a second iron for the jack plane. One at a low-bevel like 25*, and the second at a high bevel like 40* to give you a working angle of 52-ish for face grain that is not behaving well. But that can wait as well.

    I did warn you about the "slippery slope". I'll wave on your way past.

    See you in the funny papers
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

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