What tool do I need?

[Rob Luter]

Just for fun and to answer another question from the past a trip to the shop took place and a #4 hollow (1/4") was used to round over a corner:

There are a few things to practice before doing this:

Attachment 500826

In this image my finger tips are being used to keep the top edge of the blade from touching the work.


Attachment 500823

If one is not careful the quirk points can leave a mark at the edge of the rounding. This can be cleaned up with a smoothing plane but can ruin a clean round over.

An alternative way to round the corner is to create rabbets on the two sides of the corner:

Attachment 500824

This can be impressive:

Attachment 500825

Finally a #16 (1") hollow was used to round over the entire edge of this 4/4 piece of alder:

Attachment 500822

Almost a full bullnose, most folks wouldn't notice. An actual bullnose plane would do a complete half diameter cut as in my earlier post. That plane was later used to make this into an approximately 1-1/2" dowel.

jtk

Thanks for the suggestions. It’s a shame you are nearly 2,300 miles away. I’d like a demo

[Rob Luter]

Let the fence ride on a batten, set to the depth YOU want to stop at...simple as that...

I little more complicated than that, as there's no way to separate the thickness of shaving from depth of cut. I tried to finesse it with my hands but the cutter just dove in deep on contact.

Here's the good news......

I put a little more time into getting the bottom of the plane trued up to I can take a uniform thin shaving. I stop when the top of the edge I'm planing isn't flat anymore. I still have a little more depth to add to the hollow form as the ends of the cutter (quirks in beading cutter vernacular) poke out a little more as you can see in the photo below.

I did some digging into what I have and it's an H. Chapin molding plane made in the Union Factory. My research suggests that these sorts of planes are numbered as to the radius in 1/16" increments that they cut. This one doesn't seem to follow the pattern. It's marked with an "H" on the end. The cutter is 1/2" wide. H is the eighth letter of the alphabet. 8/16 = 1/2". Coincidence? It cuts a radius closer to 1/4" though. The bottom was shaped using sandpaper wrapped around a 1/2" dowel. I guess I have another Rabbit hole to go down.

All of that is really moot as it shapes a bullnose on the stock thickness I wanted it to.

[Jim Koepke]

I still have a little more depth to add to the hollow form as the ends of the cutter (quirks in beading cutter vernacular) poke out a little more as you can see in the photo below.

This seems to be common on hollows. My theory is it has to do with being easier to get a slip stone or a dowel wrapped in sandpaper into the curve than it is to work the points. Former users likely did more honing in the center of the blade than at the points.

So far it looks like you are doing well without a demo.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Hmmm...No Demo...but..
Round-overs, Needs a little sanding .JPG
"We have ways.."
Round-overs, Cordless version.. .JPG
(Left hand was busy with the camera)

Seymour Smith & Son Double Spokeshave...
Round-overs, Seymour Smith & Son .JPG
Seems to work better than a screaming Router Table does..
Round-overs, fences .JPG
Slat being rounded over is 1/2" thick, by 2" wide...