Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: Drawer Slide Tolerance Issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    157

    Drawer Slide Tolerance Issues

    I'm totally new to this drawer slide thing, and need some of your infinite wisdom to help me understand some things. I'm looking at using an Accuride 3832 (or equivalent) ball-bearing 100# slider, but the tolerances seem to be very tight. I can't guarantee that my casework is all that accurate, so can someone help me understand how these get mounted so that they actually function without binding? Thanks in advance.

    Jim

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim VanBramer
    I'm totally new to this drawer slide thing, and need some of your infinite wisdom to help me understand some things. I'm looking at using an Accuride 3832 (or equivalent) ball-bearing 100# slider, but the tolerances seem to be very tight. I can't guarantee that my casework is all that accurate, so can someone help me understand how these get mounted so that they actually function without binding? Thanks in advance.

    Jim
    I use KV slides which have a tolerance of 1/16". You make the carcase first and then make the drawer VERY carefully to the correct size. for the KV's, it's carcase width minus 1 to 1-1/16. Not much room for error. A couple times I cut all the pieces dead on accurately, but when I assembled the drawer the tight dovetails didn't go together completely and the drawer (prefinished Baltic birch ply) had to be sanded down a bit. Not a good thing with a veneered ply!

    the rear end of the slide has some width adjustablity towards the narrower dimension because the attachment screw goes through a small tab that allows the slide to move towards the center of the opening, if necessary.

  3. #3
    Slide thickness are 1/2 on both sides.
    Like Dave, I build the drawer 1 1/16" less than the opening.
    Last edited by Steve Clardy; 01-30-2006 at 5:53 PM.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim VanBramer
    I'm totally new to this drawer slide thing, and need some of your infinite wisdom to help me understand some things. I'm looking at using an Accuride 3832 (or equivalent) ball-bearing 100# slider, but the tolerances seem to be very tight. I can't guarantee that my casework is all that accurate, so can someone help me understand how these get mounted so that they actually function without binding? Thanks in advance.

    Jim
    If you accidentally make the drawers slightly undersize, you can shim the slides with pieces of veneer.

  5. #5
    Not that I've ever done it mind you , but I've seen "people" place small washers between the slide and the side of the drawer. With a little longer screw, you can even put two washers in there if you need to.
    Dennis

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    157
    Okay, so I'm starting to understand how this whole thing works now. Here's another question for you ... on the Accuride spec sheet it gives the side space as .50" +0.062/-0.0 What exactly does that mean to me? Does it mean that if there is any error on my part building the drawers the error should be that they're just a hair too small rather than too big?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKinney, TX
    Posts
    1,920
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim VanBramer
    Okay, so I'm starting to understand how this whole thing works now. Here's another question for you ... on the Accuride spec sheet it gives the side space as .50" +0.062/-0.0 What exactly does that mean to me? Does it mean that if there is any error on my part building the drawers the error should be that they're just a hair too small rather than too big?
    yup.
    If they are a shade too big the drawer will be hard to open and close. if you make it a bit too small and you can either shim the slides or use the mounting holes that are on tabs. bend the tabs out a bit before mounting the slide into the cabinet then when you insert the drawer it will flatten the tabs to the point they need to be for a good snug fit.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Collin County Texas
    Posts
    2,417
    Jim, also make sure the surfaces that you mount the slides on are ABOLUTELY parallel, both cabinet and drawer; otherwise you can have ball bearings spewing out all over the floor. DAMHIKT
    Best Regards, Ken

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Laguna Beach , Ca.
    Posts
    7,201
    As stated it calls for 1/2" per side....now I always build the drawer 1/16" smaller and it will glide better since the binding effect is gone and there is a bit of spring in the glides...I don't know why that don't state it in the instructions?
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim VanBramer
    Okay, so I'm starting to understand how this whole thing works now. Here's another question for you ... on the Accuride spec sheet it gives the side space as .50" +0.062/-0.0 What exactly does that mean to me? Does it mean that if there is any error on my part building the drawers the error should be that they're just a hair too small rather than too big?
    It means what I said before. you have 1/2" of clearance on either side, but you CAN have up to 17/32 on either side (1-1/16 TOTAL difference between drawer width and opening). Two 1/32"'s equals ONE sixteenth, which is all the leeway you have. Better to make the drawers EVER so slightly too narrow and then shim.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    fairfield county, ct
    Posts
    244
    i just installed 13 rollout drawers in base cabinets.i was looking at the accuride 3832 slides also,but i remembered i had dealt with Custom Service Hardware before.the accuride slides in 22" length were $11 a piece.at CSH they were $7.50,and i couldn't tell the difference.fast shipping,no affiliation just a satisfied customer yada yada yada.http://www.cshardware.com/index.html.Also look at the QuickTray Rollout System at www.tenntex.com.It gives you a 1/4" + tolerance in drawer width but you lose 2" in total drawer width.

  12. #12
    Jim,
    If the slide instructions didnt scare you, I bet we have. Let me add some common sense stuff to the rest. Yes, you build the case first. When you measure the width of the opening, measure exactly or don't measure at all. The width of most adjustable square rules is 1" exactly. CHeck yours to be sure. Place that in the opening (represents the slides) and have two sticks that you can adjust to the remainder width. That is the width of your drawer that you can now make. When you cut the front and backs for the drawer, use these same sticks (story pole) to guide your cut off saw.
    Now make your drawer. without measurements and without error. If you are dovetailing the corners, that wont upset this method at all. If anything it will improve it since most dovetails are made slightly proud and sanded to smooth...but that reduces the drawer box width by 1/32 or so...within the tolerance of the slide specs. Someone mentioned veneer that can be added under the slide to make up for a little looseness. Try using iron-on veneer edging.
    John Lucas
    woodshopdemos

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Arena, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,272
    Jim,
    When a spacing tolerance is .50” +0.06/-0.0[0], then in production the machining is set at the midpoint of that range, or +0.03”. That is why Mark Singer builds 1/16” under the nominal dimension.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Singer
    As stated it calls for 1/2" per side....now I always build the drawer 1/16" smaller
    And David Abel says essentially the same thing here…
    Quote Originally Posted by David Abel
    It means what I said before. you have 1/2" of clearance on either side, but you CAN have up to 17/32 on either side (1-1/16 TOTAL difference between drawer width and opening). Two 1/32"'s equals ONE sixteenth, which is all the leeway you have. Better to make the drawers EVER so slightly too narrow and then shim.
    So if you shoot for the middle of the range of tolerance, and keep your own production within +/- ˝ of that range, you will be OK. Who wants to reach in there and shim, after the fact? DAMHIKT
    And as Ken Garlock says, keep your drawer and cabinet sides parallel, ‘cuz that enters into your tolerance equation too.
    Frank

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Cave Creek, AZ - near Phoenix
    Posts
    1,261
    Quote Originally Posted by fred woltersdorf
    i just installed 13 rollout drawers in base cabinets.i was looking at the accuride 3832 slides also,but i remembered i had dealt with Custom Service Hardware before.the accuride slides in 22" length were $11 a piece.at CSH they were $7.50,and i couldn't tell the difference.fast shipping,no affiliation just a satisfied customer yada yada yada.http://www.cshardware.com/index.html.Also look at the QuickTray Rollout System at www.tenntex.com.It gives you a 1/4" + tolerance in drawer width but you lose 2" in total drawer width.
    Another good source for slides is Gliderite:

    http://www.gliderite.com/

    Gliderite sells 3/4 and full extension slides by the box, 15 pair to a box, and the price is $3 to $4 a pair, plus shipping. I have used them and find the quality to be just as good as any of the other slides.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Cockeysville, Md
    Posts
    1,789
    I'm a bit different (Who'd of thought that ) I build my drawers first, set the drawer and 2 slides on the tablesaw with a couple sheets of paper between the fence and the slides and use that to set the fence-to-blade distance. Rip a sheet of plywood to that size and use it as a "Story Stick of sorts to build the cabinet.

    More than once i've screwed up and needed an extra bit of space in the cabinet and wound up re-doing the drawers and this method seems to have solved that problem for me. Of course something else usually comes along bits me where the sun don't shine...

    Brian
    The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.

    The penalty for inaccuracy is more work

Similar Threads

  1. Drawer Runners
    By Rob Russell in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-25-2005, 10:10 PM
  2. Drawer slide & door hinge recomendations please
    By Mike Holbrook in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 03-11-2005, 12:12 AM
  3. Need Info for Blum T560H5500 drawer slide.
    By David Eisan in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-18-2004, 6:38 PM
  4. Drawer slide gun
    By Steve Clardy in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-06-2003, 9:04 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •