The height of the blade on my table saw won't let me cut all the way through the 3"`s with the thickness of my base on the tapering jig. Appreciate any suggestions. Brian
The height of the blade on my table saw won't let me cut all the way through the 3"`s with the thickness of my base on the tapering jig. Appreciate any suggestions. Brian
Brian
Bandsaw...
Perhaps you could use your table saw taper jig and cut the taper as deep as you can. Then finish the cut on the band saw. Clean up with jointer or block plane.
If you have a jointer, it's pretty easy to taper on it. Plenty of vids on the tube... Count your passes on each face to get all the legs symmetrical.
--I had my patience tested. I'm negative--
There were some post about planer sleds not too long ago. I can imagine an adaptation of a planer sled. Table saw / bandsaw combo seems sensible too, as does the jointer. Or bandsaw and plane or jointer.
Best Regards, Maurice
Paul has it right
Check out this video. This is an easy way to do it, but you have to make a fence for your TS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOrh-rYRlMw
He explains at around 3:20 in the video. Good luck.
My Dad always told me "Can't Never Could".
SWE
Paul, watched a video and it is pretty simple as long as I lay it out correctly and flow the proper steps. My one concern is the operation is going to leave me with the final face of the leg and if there is a problem with tear out of any sort, I either live with it or start over. I have new blades installed etc, but.... I think the sled Steve is suggesting, although a little work to make it, leaves me a better % chance of getting a good face after milling. Thanks. Brian
Brian
Do you own a bandsaw and jack plane? I use these. It's more accurate and safer. It's also not considerably slower than a jointer for small jobs.
Mark the faces with a pencil line, bandsaw them to +1/8". Re-mark if necessary; hand plane to the line.
Assuming the grain started straight, you'll be planing down hill, so there will be low risk of tear out.
It's a useful technique to learn, because it can also be used to make tapered bevels.
I've made quite a few with a bandsaw, often with a taper jig just like you would use on a TS, then a pass on the jointer, then a hand plane or sandpaper. It's a quick, straight forward process.
Bandsaws are amazingly versatile. I'm not sure why people never consider using a taper jig with the bandsaw, but it works just as well as a TS if it's set up to cut straight and parallel with the fence.
John
I've tapered legs with a hand saw and a sharp jack plane. Just scribe the taper on the leg, cut as close as you care to and use the jack plane to finish it off.
It would probably take less than 20 minutes per leg.
Regards,
Tom
My Delta 12/14 tablesaw crosscuts 4x4 with room to spare.. It is basically a unisaw on steroids. About 30% bigger all around. They often go cheaper then a unisaw just because they are bigger and harder to move. I got mine for $120. I swapped out. the 5hp three phase motor.
You need two big guys to take off the table top. two guys pushed it up a ramp into my truck.
Sometimes sold as a unisaw or just a tablesaw. You have to look at the pictures. throat plate is rectangular and the front door is not square
Bill D.
Two on ebay now for $1,200 which is ten times what I paid.
Last edited by Bill Dufour; 05-01-2023 at 11:13 AM.