auger bits new or old

[Brandon Speaks]

I have not used a brace and bit much generally just using a power drill but I am wanting to use one more. My old box of random bits got wet and they are all rusty and while I likely will clean them up at some point I am considering just getting a set. Full sets of Irwin or Jennings on ebay with a box are pretty reasonably priced, and I am comfortable sharpening them. There are also sets out there like wood owl which get pretty pricy for the whole set up, but the 6 bit set in 1/8 increments is not that bad.

What are the thoughts on which way to go?

[Philip Glover]

I have both a complete set of Jennings 101's and Wood Owl bits. They are both excellent. If you go with the Jennings bits you will almost certainly need to sharpen them before you use them.
The Wood Owl bits will be ready to go.
Overall, the Wood Owls leave a cleaner hole. The drawback to W-O bits is the broad lead screw. It can split the board if you drill a hole close to the edge / end of a board. A pilot hole, which is smaller than the lead screw, needs to be drilled to prevent splitting. I see this as a very minor issue.
I also find the W-O bits better for drilling at an angle.

Regards,

PCG

[Jason Buresh]

I would be careful what you buy on eBay. There can be damage to the bits that's hard to see in pictures.

Make sure to look at the lead screw and confirm they are not blunted or broke or accidentally filed. Also make sure the wings have been properly maintained and not damaged.

Most jennings bits I have seen have a fine thread lead screw and a double twist and are generally recommended for hardwoods. Irwin style bits have a more coarse thread screw and are generally recommended for soft woods. In my experience this is good advice.

I have no experience with the newer bits but wood by wright has some good videos where he talks about them. I have been fortunate to find some decent sets of antique bits.

I would maybe keep an eye on the classifieds here or look for a set from a reputable tool dealer or check market place for something you can look over.

Just my 2 cents.

[Eric Brown]

Another option is expansive bits. With a small one and a large one you can bore from 1/2" to 3" and everything in between. I have over 500 expansive bits in my collection and can say for sure they aren't all the same.
One thing to look for is cutting balance. There are two cutters involved. The movable cutter and the fixed cutter. There may or may not be two spurs. The best balanced cutters are when the fixed and movable cutters are somewhat opposite each other. To make it easier to make, some bits have the fixed cutter closer to the movable cutter. This puts all the cutting to one side of the bit and makes for a less balance rotation of the brace. The ones with a side adjustment screw are easier to adjust precisely but there are other things to look at. The Russell Jennings design, called a solid head, Do not have any scales and there are design changes that happened after Stanley bought them. The earlier ones before Stanley are better made. The Steers patent ones as well as the Wright Convalco ones are good. If buying make sure to get ones with both cutters for the full range. Additional cutters were available up to 6" but you need a lot of leverage to remove that much wood.

[Daniel Culotta]

A data point of one here, but for the most part the vintage bits I've come across are more of a pain than they're worth. Like Jason mentioned, it's sometimes hard to tell if the lead screw or flutes have damage, and if they do, it's typically more work to get them working than's worth it (IMO) for a drill bit. However, if you find a set that is clearly in pristine or unused shape, or you can closely inspect a vintage set first hand, the vintage bits do work beautifully when they're working.

But for me I go new to save the hassle. I also only tend to use a handful of sizes so don't go in for big sets, but YMMV.

[Jim Koepke]

Brandon, I've bought many bits on ebay and not that many have been real bad.

If your old bits are not terribly rusted you might be able to clean them up quickly with a wire brush.

I purchase a set of Russel Jennigs on ebay with only one bit, 1/4", needing replacement. It is now up with my set of Irwins that was put together over time.

Here is an old post of mine on augers bits > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131238

One thing to look for is if a bit has been improperly sharpened. Any material removed from the underside of the cutting lips or the outside of the spurs will be a source of problems.

Another consideration may be if you only need one or two sizes you may want to purchase premium bits like the Wood Owl bits. If you are like me and want a complete set, then it is time to start looking. I've found many bits in second hand stores and at yard sales. Often these can be had for less than a dollar each.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Found this image of an improperly filed spur on an auger bit:

Improperly Filed Spur.jpg

Notice the small bevel on the outside edge of the spur. That will cause the bit to bind in the cut.

jtk