Makita 2040 planer restoration

[Cameron Wood]

This showed up on Craigslist, & sucker that I am for projects, have acquired it.

Pretty rough shape, but the rollers appear to have been redone so that's a big plus.

The handwheel is missing, & looks like it was rigged to use an impact gun or something to raise the table, so the gears are stripped.

The parts are available, & ~$100 will get the gears, handwheel, thrust bearing, & bits.

So far given it a once-over, got started on some of the stuck fasteners, pulled the knives, and removed the head, which was a chore.

Picks were taken of machine tilted over on it's side.

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[William Hodge]

It's good to see an Asian machine being restored.
I wish there were an Old Asian Woodworking Machines web site to help people deal with all the old Asian stuff out there. It would be for people that really make things out of wood, and be free of snark.

[Cameron Wood]

Got the table off- also a chore as it was stuck in position. That's pretty much the disassembly, and some of the rust removal.
Now some clean, prep & paint.

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[Dan Friedrichs]

That looks like a fun project - excited to see how it looks when you're done!

[Bill Dufour]

A soak in EDTA and water will remove rust without damaging paint or plastic. It will not cause hydrogen embrittlement.
BilLD

[Cameron Wood]

A soak in EDTA and water will remove rust without damaging paint or plastic. It will not cause hydrogen embrittlement.
BilLD

Haven't heard of that- where do you get it?

[Cameron Wood]

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I worked on the knives with a Makita sharpener, but they've got some big nicks, so I'll send them out.

[al ladd]

Feed rollers in intact? How can that be!

[Bill Dufour]

Haven't heard of that- where do you get it?

Ebay. Lowest grade is fine. Safe enough that people eat it intentionally. One pound will neutralize one pound of rust.
BilL D.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-to-stop/page5

[Cameron Wood]

Thanks, I'll check that out.

Re feed rollers: IKR! It looks like the previous owner (two owners ago) redid the rollers, but then stalled out- bed frozen on the columns, roller adjusting screws stuck (still working on that), & stripped table raising gears.

I paid $40 for the thing & was figuring the rollers would need to be recovered for additional $$.

[Brad Patch]

Cameron,

I have owned a Makita 2030 Jointer/ Planer for 40 years. It has had the rollers recovered, bearings replaced and an on/off switch. I suspect there are some similarities between the 2040 and 2030 models.

Some of the Phillips head screws that hold the rollers in place are in fact JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) look for a little raised dot on the head of the screw. A new #2 Phillips bit will generally work well at removing these screws. The roller hardware is hard to see, and I grew tired of craning my neck while standing on my knees, so I replaced these screws with hex head metric hardware.

Never be tempted to start the machine without the blades being installed, centrifugal force will cause the thin blade keepers to bend out of shape, don't ask me how I know!

Brad

This showed up on Craigslist, & sucker that I am for projects, have acquired it.

Pretty rough shape, but the rollers appear to have been redone so that's a big plus.

The handwheel is missing, & looks like it was rigged to use an impact gun or something to raise the table, so the gears are stripped.

The parts are available, & ~$100 will get the gears, handwheel, thrust bearing, & bits.

So far given it a once-over, got started on some of the stuck fasteners, pulled the knives, and removed the head, which was a chore.

Picks were taken of machine tilted over on it's side.

IMG_4112.jpgIMG_4113.jpegIMG_4114.jpgIMG_4115.jpegIMG_4116.jpegIMG_4117.jpegIMG_4118.jpeg

[Cameron Wood]

Cameron,

I have owned a Makita 2030 Jointer/ Planer for 40 years. It has had the rollers recovered, bearings replaced and an on/off switch. I suspect there are some similarities between the 2040 and 2030 models.

Some of the Phillips head screws that hold the rollers in place are in fact JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) look for a little raised dot on the head of the screw. A new #2 Phillips bit will generally work well at removing these screws. The roller hardware is hard to see, and I grew tired of craning my neck while standing on my knees, so I replaced these screws with hex head metric hardware.

Never be tempted to start the machine without the blades being installed, centrifugal force will cause the thin blade keepers to bend out of shape, don't ask me how I know!

Brad

Thanks for the pointers!

I also have the 2030N combo machine, although I've only had it for 10-15 years, so I somewhat know the drill. Rollers when I got it, & the jointer fence is warped a bit. Put a wood piece on to fix, but may still take it to a machine shop to be milled flat.
Definitely familiar with those ridiculously soft screws from a number of different Makita tools. One of them stripped and took some work to get out- I'll take your (& others') suggestion to replace them.

Still struggling with the last two stuck roller adjuster nuts- the last of the gnarly bits.

I did have a moment where I was tempted to turn on the machine without the knives- but fortunately didn't.

[Cameron Wood]

To document some steps that I haven't seen covered elsewhere,

After substantial struggle getting the feed roller adjuster pieces out, cleaning and filing some buggered threads, I got to the reassembly.

The instructions say to set the rollers 1/2 turn of the handwheel below the cutterhead frame, so 1/16". Since I had the head off, I made a jig to measure that- straightedge with 1/8" shims to clear the chipbreaker, and 1/16" shims to position the rollers. With the adjusters set at their highest, the feed rollers were still too low, possibly because of damage to threads in the cutter head body preventing the adjusters from going higher. I cut some plastic shims and double-stick taped them to the bottom of the square roller bearings, effectively raising the rollers.

Still waiting for the table raising gears to arrive so this is not tested yet, but looks promising. Will probably drip some Locktite into the adjuster threads as they turn easily now. The socket head screws just showed up- don't show in the pics but they are installed.

Pic shows tool adapted from a Bosch trim router wrench for the adjuster nuts- worked OK.


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[Cameron Wood]

Here is a useful discussion of the two types of adjuster screws.

https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...ustment-screws

I think my issue could be fixed by chasing the threads with a tap (M27-2) available for $30 on Amazon.

[Cameron Wood]

Success!

The parts finally arrived & got the last bits back together. The knives are about 90% flat & honed on the back side- that will have to do for now. This will be used for lumber & larger stock so it should be good enough. Not too loud- that's a plus.

$225 into it for the machine, parts & supplies, & probably 20-25 hours.


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