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Thread: Cabinet/Furniture paint and top coat

  1. #1
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    Cabinet/Furniture paint and top coat

    I have a bench-shoe rack almost to the finish stage.

    EFDFC7E8-D7D9-4AA8-B701-F779F055F9A4.jpg

    My plan is to paint it to match our current bedroom furniture (country white/alabaster or similar )

    It is built from brown maple and I plan on priming with Zinnser BIN.

    I plan on using Sherwin Williams Pro Classic or Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel. These are 2 options I have read about in many posts here, among others.

    I will be applying with a foam or mohair roller as I do not have a sprayer.

    Should I, or better yet can I put a clear top coat on either of these paints for added durability?

    I was considering a water based poly or lacquer to avoid any yellowing over time. These I would just use rattle cans since it is a small project. I would certainly test either of these options on a scrap piece before any final decisions.

    My goal is to have a satin finish.

    Thanks,
    Jay

  2. #2
    Yes. I just did a huge kitchen, using a "water-white" non-yellowing water based topcoat over the SW Emerald, because the paint was rubbed back on edges and needed additional protection. Just be sure the topcoat does not have an amber additive (which is what they mean by water-white), or a color shift can be expected. The paint itself would have been just fine without, although I like to think the water based conversion varnish adds a bit of ease for cleanup and scuff resistance. I added a final glaze coat, and that clear coat allowed me to clean off errant swipes and buff dry, preserving the clear-coat's sheen. Very expensive products, but results are well worth it.

    Of note: You may lightly sand mild imperfections in the paint at 280-320 grit prior to spraying the clear, which will also promote adhesion. While it may look like sheen change and sanding marks could show through, the clear always seems to mitigate that, leaving a nice, creamy white color and excellent sheen.

    Biggest difference is that I sprayed all products, but that Emerald lays out very nicely, so with some practice I would think your application method should work out okay.

    good luck!

    jeff

  3. #3

  4. #4
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    Emerald Urethane will flow out much easier than Pro-Classic if applied by roller. You could add GF's and BM's Extender to Pro-Classic, however, and that will let it flow out better. I used Pro-Classic with 3 or 4% Extender and maybe 5% water when I rolled some onto a kitchen end panel during a remodel job where I couldn't remove it to spray. Turned out great, like a sprayed finish.

    Emerald Urethane sprays great, but it takes a lot longer to cure than Pro-Classic. I would hesitate to spray a clearcoat over it until cures more fully, at least a week, but Jeff would know better based on his post above. I can say with some confidence that Emerald Urethane would benefit from a clear topcoat to reduce scratching as it's fairly soft, even after curing. Pro-Classic, however, cures very hard and pretty quickly, so the choice to topcoat it is more about aesthetics than necessity for your application.

    John

  5. #5
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    Jeff & John, thanks for the info, very helpful

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Roltgen View Post
    Yes. I just did a huge kitchen, using a "water-white" non-yellowing water based topcoat over the SW Emerald, because the paint was rubbed back on edges and needed additional protection. Just be sure the topcoat does not have an amber additive (which is what they mean by water-white), or a color shift can be expected. The paint itself would have been just fine without, although I like to think the water based conversion varnish adds a bit of ease for cleanup and scuff resistance. I added a final glaze coat, and that clear coat allowed me to clean off errant swipes and buff dry, preserving the clear-coat's sheen. Very expensive products, but results are well worth it.

    Of note: You may lightly sand mild imperfections in the paint at 280-320 grit prior to spraying the clear, which will also promote adhesion. While it may look like sheen change and sanding marks could show through, the clear always seems to mitigate that, leaving a nice, creamy white color and excellent sheen.

    Biggest difference is that I sprayed all products, but that Emerald lays out very nicely, so with some practice I would think your application method should work out okay.

    good luck!

    jeff
    Jeff,

    Is Minwax Polycrylic considered “water white”? It is advertised as non-yellowing. I believe I recall it being milky white in the can.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Norton View Post
    Jeff,

    Is Minwax Polycrylic considered “water white”? It is advertised as non-yellowing. I believe I recall it being milky white in the can.
    My experience with the product...I do use it for utility...is that it's pretty cold once it's cured and certainly doesn't add any ambering. It would be disappointing directly over walnut, for example. At the same time, over light colored maple, the lack of ambering is very noticable in a good way if that's what you want.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Thanks Jim - I do not have experience with the Polycrylic to know that answer.

    To be clear, "water white" and "non-yellowing" are two separate attributes. Most WB's are in general "non-yellowing", though worth verifying, while "water white" takes some research and diligent seeking to find. Other than the Mohawk products I use, I know General finishes Enduro, for instance, does contain an amber additive, while their High Performance specifically does not, so it earns the "water-white" designation. (As well as the "top dollar" award, at about $100/per gallon at todays rates)

    jeff

  9. #9
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    I tried a sample piece with 2 coats spray Polycrylic. It definitely darkened the 2 coats of white primer under it. Polycrylic on left side

    96FD3C25-56DF-40B8-82EA-1DB44236D8B9.jpg

    I am leaning towards using ProClassic without a top coat since it cures harder. I will experiment with thinning/adding the extender as John recommended.

    I notice Sherwin Williams offers 2 versions of the ProClassic:

    Waterbased acrylic-alkyd
    Waterborne acrylic enamel

    From what I understand the acrylic-alkyd should be more durable vs the acrylic enamel…?
    Am I understanding this correctly?

    Jay

  10. #10
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    Jay, I like that and happen to need something similar next to my bed for putting on shoes in the mornings.

    Did you follow a plan found online, or design yourself? Just curious on the basic dimensions. Thanks.

  11. #11
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    Greg,

    I designed it. Here are the rough dimensions.
    The height is ~22”. The top is 14 3/4” x 42”. Shelves have 7 1/2” between them.

    Jay

  12. #12
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    Nice. Thanks Jay!

  13. #13
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    Jay, ProClassic Acrylic - Alkyd is arguably more durable once it fully cures but the 100% Acrylic is very durable, too, and cures harder and faster. ProClassic 100% Acyrlic is often used to paint kitchen cabinets, as Jim did, and that application requires high durability. You're painting bedroom furniture. I'm sure the 100% Acrylic will be more than up to the task.

    John

  14. #14
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    John, Thanks!

    What general part of Western NY are you located?

    I grew up in Steuben County.

    Jay

  15. #15
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    I live in Lewiston, just north of Niagara Falls. I went to college at Alfred Univ, one county over from Stueben, and made a lot of trips to Corning back in my corporate days. Beautiful country down in the southern tier.

    John

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