Spraying Lacquer

[James Jayko]

Ok, so I'm going to spray lacquer on the Morris chair I built. I bought a gallon of that Sher-Wood Cab Acrylic Lacquer and a Fuji Mini-MIte 5 HVLP spray setup.

I've seen some videos where the presenter does two relatively heavier coats first, and a third that is ~75% thinner, 25% lacquer. Do we like this idea? Hit it with some 0000 steel wool and furniture polish after its cured? Or is there a better method? I'd sprayed plenty of waterborne finishes through this gun, but this is going to be my first time with lacquer. Yes, I am committed to lacquer because I bought it and want to try it since I've never used it before.

Input and advice appreciated!

[Tony Joyce]

Based on my years of spraying lacquer(approximately 40 yrs), I would not recommend that much/amount of thinner in any lacquer.
I see no benefit and possible problems. SW recommends spray from the can unthinned.
My personal thoughts are max thinner would be 5%. I've used the SW Cab Acrylic before.
It is a great product. I use a SW precat now.
Only caveat is I use a pressure tank. I'm not using an HVLP.

Tony

[Jamie Buxton]

Spraying real lacquer wants good ventilation and a respirator with organic vapor cartridges.

[Jim Becker]

What Jamie said...solvent based lacquer is a whole nuther thing when it comes to PPE and workplace ventilation.

[Robert L Stewart]

I agree with Tony, I have been spraying SW cab acrylic for 36 years. I tried the 50-50 thinner once. I felt like the result was wasting thinner. Also a big fan
of 2 coats of SW vinyl sealer before the first coat of lacquer. The heavy coat may work on flat work. I would not chance it because of changing Humidity.
In Southern CA we rarely have that issue. I still use a retarder for extra insurance.

[James Jayko]

Noted on the PPE. I'm aware of the risks and I've got all the requisite equipment.

But consensus is ~2 coats of the lacquer, unthinned? I did a sealer coat of Waterlox first.

Buff it out with 0000 steel wool and furniture polish?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

A lot depends on what kind of finish you are going for. Dads technique for lacquer from Sherwin Willams was 1 coat vinyl sanding sealer, sand with 220, 1 coat ML Campbell M.R.E. both applied un-thinned with an airless Wagner diaphragm sprayer. No rub-out. He did (does) his spraying right in the shop with no explosion proof anything. Another shop uses Mcfadden's, un-thinned, applied hot, with a HVLP. 3 coats, sand with 220, 3 coats sand with 400, 3 coats (or more), wait two weeks, wet sand starting with 600 and "go through grits", rub-out & buff to high gloss. No special ventilation is present. Spraying happens right in front of a cheap box fan hung in the back door. The gun and contents are heated in a pan of boiling water on a hot plate. (don't try any of this at home). At home I use rattle cans and occasionally my vintage Binks automotive gun. I thin as little as possible. For a chair I would do more than 2 and less than 9 coats. Rub out or not according to the product you use and sheen you like. Satin would be my preference for a Morris chair.

[James Jayko]

The gun and contents are heated in a pan of boiling water on a hot plate. (don't try any of this at home).

This feels like a disaster looking for a place to happen. At least for me, a certified 'home gamer.'

[Kevin Jenness]

I would second the recommendation of vinyl sealer followed by 2 coats of the CAB lacquer. Best to follow the manufacturer's application guidelines unless you have tested and are happy with deviations (test anyway before trying a new product). Spraying heavy coats on vertical surfaces invites sags, and I am not sure what benefit a heavily thinned coat might offer.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

This feels like a disaster looking for a place to happen. At least for me, a certified 'home gamer.'

I agree! The gentleman that sprays hot has been doing it that way since the 1970s. May he continue to gave good luck. My go to for a two coat spray job with no rubout is oil base Minwax polyurethane. I spray it un-thinned through my old Binks gun. I can do it at home without stinking up the whole neighborhood.

[Jim Becker]

Just be sure to use the brand-compatible vinyl sealer for the specific lacquer...AFAIK, it's best not to mix brands for this.

[James Jayko]

Sprayed today. Outside, in a respirator.

looks great. But man, that stuff is NASTY.

what products would you use to get as similar a finish, without the feeling that you’re dying? I’ve sprayed poly plenty but it feels and looks…weird.

[Jim Becker]

I only spray waterborne products and some shellac. If you want something that acts similar to solvent based lacquer including "burn in", Target Coatings EM6000 (or the EM7000 high build version) are very nice finishes and are easier and safer to spray. They are a little thicker so it's a good idea to do a some practice since waterborne finishes cannot be reduced more than about 10% as compared to solvent based lacquers.

[Kevin Jenness]

Sprayed today. Outside, in a respirator.

looks great. But man, that stuff is NASTY.

what products would you use to get as similar a finish, without the feeling that you’re dying? I’ve sprayed poly plenty but it feels and looks…weird.

Lacquer solvents are nasty, but you shouldn't have an impending sense of doom spraying outdoors with a properly fitted respirator with organic vapor cartridges. Adjust your fit and try some new cartridges. If that doesn't work, try waterborne products. There are many to choose from.

[Alan Lightstone]

If you can tell it's nasty, then you're inhaling some of it.

Adjust your respirator and make sure you have a good organic one.

I almost exclusively use pre-cat lacquer. A small learning curve, then pretty great results. This is in dedicated spray room with explosion proof everything and high quality respirator.

Jim's suggestions above with waterborne products are likely far safer and easier.