Help, please: stripped screw on Jamieson cutter

[David Bolson]

I purchased the Jamieson coring system some years ago, including 2 cutters and the sharpening jigs. I cored with it a number of times, but went on to other things. I took it out to use it again recently and decided I needed to sharpen the cutters. Unfortunately I found that the screws holding the cutters are totally stripped. I can't get them out. I used a flat diamond bar to hand sharpen, but I would really like to be able to get those cutters out and properly sharpen (I had an agonizingly difficult time coring a heavy and dry block of oak - could've been partly due to the wood itself, but I think a sharper cutter would have certainly helped).

Any suggestions on how to get the cutters out without ruining the thread in the arm? TIA for any advice.

Oneway cutter screws.jpg

David

[Dwight Rutherford]

I’d ask Lyle,
https://lylejamieson.com/

[roger wiegand]

Ultimately, drill them out and re-tap the hole.

Before that you might try first heating them to break any corrosion, then epoxy a cheap hex wrench into the hole, soak it with PB Blaster, and see if it will come loose. If that fails just heat the wrench to soften the epoxy and pull it out prior to drilling.

[Kevin Jenness]

Penetrating oil and an easy-out bolt extractor.

Isn't that a Oneway tool?

[David Bolson]

Penetrating oil and an easy-out bolt extractor.

Isn't that a Oneway tool?

Oops, yes! I have a Jamieson set-up, but this is definitely Oneway!

I don't have, and have never used, a bolt extractor. Would that damage the internal threads of the arm? Can you use a bolt extractor on such a small bolt?

Ultimately, drill them out and re-tap the hole.

I think that would be a last resort for me.

Before that you might try first heating them to break any corrosion, then epoxy a cheap hex wrench into the hole, soak it with PB Blaster, and see if it will come loose. If that fails just heat the wrench to soften the epoxy and pull it out prior to drilling.

I would be surprised if epoxy would hold onto the bolt head when I try to turn it. Interesting idea, though.

I’d ask Lyle,
https://lylejamieson.com/

I'll ask Oneway.

Thanks, David

[David Bolson]

So, I spoke with Kevin at Oneway who was very helpful. He suggested that I drill into the head until the head separates from the shank. And then, hopefully, be able to twist the shank out with pliers. Otherwise, drill from the bottom which should rotate the screw out.

David

[Richard Coers]

They make left hand drills with the theory the action of the drill and heat of drilling will back the bolt out as you drill it.

[Dan Hunkele]

Take a Dremmel tool with a cutting disc and carefully cut a slot into the head for a screwdriver blade.

[Eugene Dixon]

My experience with PB Blaster on pitch has not been positive. Not negative either, just no impact. Heat wasn't much help either. I have found that (Trend) blade cleaner softens the pitch and lets me remove those kind of insert screw. If the socket is stripped, you are probably looking at a drill and easy out. I'd still use the blade cleaner. Pitch is like glue.

[mike calabrese]

YouTube is loaded with methods to remove stripped screws from metal
here is a link have a look
calabrese55
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ews+from+metal

[Dave Bunge]

A tip to prevent stripping out in the future. The recess on top of the bolt often gets filled with sawdust making it hard to seat the Allen wrench all the way in. Use the sharp tip of a push pin to clear out the debris before trying to loosen the bolt.


Oneway includes a push pin in the box with the coring rig, at least they did with mine. It took me a while to figure out what it was for. It works quite well.

[Eugene Dixon]

A tip to prevent stripping out in the future. The recess on top of the bolt often gets filled with sawdust making it hard to seat the Allen wrench all the way in. Use the sharp tip of a push pin to clear out the debris before trying to loosen the bolt.


Oneway includes a push pin in the box with the coring rig, at least they did with mine. It took me a while to figure out what it was for. It works quite well.

Ask your dental hygienist to save you some picks. Picks have a finite lifetime in dentistry use.

[Peter Blair]

Heat should do the trick and a square tapered screw remover hammered into it while hot, then penetration oil and work it in and out tiny twists at a time.

[David Bolson]

So, I spoke with Kevin at Oneway who was very helpful. He suggested that I drill into the head until the head separates from the shank. And then, hopefully, be able to twist the shank out with pliers. Otherwise, drill from the bottom which should rotate the screw out.

David

Done.

First I tried using a dremel to cut a slot for a screwdriver but I couldn’t get deep enough. Then I used Kevin’s method and it worked like a charm. The first one came out by drilling the head off and easily unscrewing the shaft. The second one I had to drill in from the bottom. The drill actually unscrewed the shaft and I was then able to easily unscrew the rest of the way with my fingers.

Now I have to get some 6-32 1/2” screws and I’m good to go.

[Lee Schierer]

I'm glad you got it out. Worn allen wrenches are the cause for these types of failure.Buy a set of Bondhus allen wrenches and throw away any others you have. Then every third or fourth time you remove the screws, replace them.

Some times it helps to give the screw a sharp rap on the head before you try to remove it.