table saw tripping

[Dick Strauss]

18A motor on a 20A breaker? 125% of 18A is 22.5A. The cb should be at least this size (22.5A) with wire to match (the next size up is 25A but these can be hard to find for some panels so go preferably with a 30A cb with 10g wire).

[Lee Schierer]

18A motor on a 20A breaker? 125% of 18A is 22.5A. The cb should be at least this size (22.5A) with wire to match (the next size up is 25A but these can be hard to find for some panels so go preferably with a 30A cb with 10g wire).

A motor pulling 18 amps would be 2.5 HP not 1.5 unless Jet was listing motors with peak amperage like Craftsman used to do. If it was drawing that many amps while running it surely would have tripped a 20 amp breaker on start up.

[Dick Strauss]

Here's my logic on this saw...18A*120V*.70 (efficiency) leaves the motor at about 1500W (under 2hp max) so I assume the motor is rated at 1.5hp or the next usual step down.

[Rod Sheridan]

18A motor on a 20A breaker? 125% of 18A is 22.5A. The cb should be at least this size (22.5A) with wire to match (the next size up is 25A but these can be hard to find for some panels so go preferably with a 30A cb with 10g wire).

Hi Dick, that’s for continuously operated or thermostatically controlled loads, not an intermittent machine like a home saw.

20 ampere circuit is just fine for the saw in question……Regards, Rod.

[Paul Saffold]

The thermal switch was supposed to be delivered March 30, 2 days after ordering, then delivery on or before the 6th, then on or before April 10th....
So I called them and was told it ships from a 3rd party. I let them know how unhappy I was that they did not tell me it was backordered. I have not received any communication from them or the 3rd party vendor. I know of the change delivery dates because I check the website. globalindustrial.com

[Paul Saffold]

Update.
So the thermal switch came in and changed out. The saw has been working fine now. Ripping pressure treated 2x without any problems in my shop flooring upgrade.

[Curt Harms]

Get a "KilloWatt meter and check actual current draw. I bought mine at HF. Or if you can make a short cord set that you can separate the conductors, use a clamp on amp meter to check current draw. If draw isn't more than name plate on motor, then overload is bad. Overloads are a generic item, and can be ordered from multiple sources. You could mount a new one in a 2X4 handy box thru which the line set passes.

This would be my tack. I have an 'appliance' cord about 6' long - I guess intended for heavier 120 volt loads like window air conditioners or toaster ovens. I was able to split it so am able to clamp an ammeter around one conductor. The easiest way I know to check the actual amp draw of a machine or other load. If the overload is tripping while the saw is drawing substantially less than its rated amperage, that pretty much indicates your problem.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Update.
So the thermal switch came in and changed out. The saw has been working fine now. Ripping pressure treated 2x without any problems in my shop flooring upgrade.

So - it was the thermal switch after all.

Thanks for the update!