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Thread: Almost have my router fence finished

  1. #1

    Almost have my router fence finished

    It has a half nut arrangement so it has rapid to and away from the cutter. It has a hand wheel for fine adjustments and a lock for position, I need to get some triolet bolts for the MDF sacrificial, zero clearance, fence system. Also now I need to build the cabinet for the shaper top I put a router lift into. It is 39 degrees in my shop today so hopefully it will not be to long.

    DSC04167.JPG DSC04168.JPG DSC04169.JPG

    Thanks for looking
    Tom

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,059
    That's going to be the best router table ever.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,237
    Wow...what a nice looking fence. Hope it gets warm in your shop soon.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,379
    hi Tom, looks interesting but I can't work out how it works.

  5. #5
    NICELY DONE!!!!

    When I built my router fence I decided to buy the Woodpeckers "Micro Adjust". I was going to build one, I had some experience when I built my Bow Press, but had other projects that needed the time and attention. I did use some linear bearings similiar to what you used for a "beaded inset" jig I built.

    IMG_4486.jpg

    Beaded Inset Notch Setup.jpg

  6. #6
    That is an interesting to use linear bearings and an air cylinder. I am not familiar with a beaded insert.
    Tom

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    2,260
    Thanks for sharing Tom. If I am understanding the design, it looks like an intermediary cross member for the purpose of mounting the dust collection.

    I have an incra fence that is inadequate for dust collection and needs an upgrade. It may be as simple as what you have done so appreciate the ideas here.

    If you are not familiar with them, IGUS has dry linear bearings and sometimes you can get 'samples' even. Nice product line.

  8. #8
    It's for cutting "Beaded Inset" face frames for cabinets...
    The smaller bead is 1/4", and the larger is 3/8".


    IMG_4192.jpg

  9. #9
    Carl,

    You will need to add an extra fence. I used 4 blocks to move the fence our two had section cur out so it could be held on with spring clamps. Like on my fence shown you can cut the opening on a table saw with a carbide blade. The aluminum doesn't hurt it. If a band saw is used the blade will not be sharpen enough to cut wood afterwards. a hack saw can also be used but if you do you are in for a long say.
    Tom

  10. #10
    What I want in a fence, is to be able to move it back far enough so I can change bits quickly. And then bring the fence back into position just as fast and have a fine adjust to it so I can flush the fence to a ball bearing cutter. I want to do it quickly easily with out having to nudge the fence back and forth. I like my fence to be flush but not have the bearing move when I set it with a steel rule. A lot of pushing pressure can be applied to the fence and bearing if not set up correctly. Side pressure the router bit causes the router bearings to go out eventually.

    Incra does what I want it to do but it sticks out the back to far and one can have a lot of money by the time it is through. I do have an idea on how to do it on the older Incra.'s though.
    Tom

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