Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Minimum thickness for small mitered box walls?

  1. #1

    Minimum thickness for small mitered box walls?

    I’m working through my stash of smaller cut-offs from bigger projects. I’ve got some 4/4 boards that I’d like to resaw to make grain matched boxes. I don’t have a bandsaw and have historically resawn with my table saw or Japanese pull saw if I had to.

    I’m pretty confident I can get at least 1/4”-5/16” thickness after resawing and planing smooth. Is that enough to do mitered boxes?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,635
    Blog Entries
    1
    You can certainly make boxes with 1/4" thick sides. It will depend on how the boxes are handled, what's put in them and how big they are as to how they hold up. I made some small trays and drawers for the inside of a jewelry box from 1/4" curly maple. I used a locking rabbit joint that you can see in the photo below. Those joints work well in thin material. I have never made a 1/4" wall box with miter joints.
    Locking rabbit.jpg
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Westminster BC
    Posts
    3,008
    I've made small, about 4" x 4" x 2" boxes from 3/16" MDF core plywood for some of my games, once glued up they were pretty strong.

  4. #4
    It's been a while so I don't remember exactly, but I think I just glued miter corners with thin stock. A friend has one of my small trays and next time I go there I'll check out how I made it.

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 03-22-2023 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Spelling
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,564
    Perhaps decorative dovetail spines could add strength. The sideways horizontal type. I have also seen some using a horizontal straight spline about 1/8" thick, that also serves to hold up an inside tray.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,635
    Blog Entries
    1
    One other thought...If you want to strengthen a mitered corner can glue in a triangular gusset or square block inside the corner.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
    Posts
    3,071
    I've been doing some experiments lately to see how thin I can go. Both of the examples below are 1/4" sides. The upper photo is a hinged version of mahogany with a walnut top and cedar bottom (both 1/4" as well). The lower box is pine with 1/8" pine for a sliding top and fixed bottom. I splined the corners on that one. It's light as a feather but still plenty strong






    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,491
    These ring boxes are 2” long by 1” across. The walls are only about 2mm thick …





    More typically, I build drawer sides from 6mm thick boards, and am happy to make boxes 6-8mm thick.





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #9
    I made a small box to hold teabags from, IIRC, 3/16" or so pieces. They're mitered together and it's held up fine. The base is much thicker (it's wider and has a decorative edge). Would I give it to my toddler? No, but does it hold teabags on my wife's desk? Sure does!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,847
    Since a lot of the strength of a construction like that comes from how the material intersects with each other and how adjacent components help support each other via the joinery, it's not surprising that relatively thin material can result in a strong "thing".

    Those are beautiful boxes, Derek.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
    Posts
    3,071
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    These ring boxes are 2” long by 1” across. The walls are only about 2mm thick …





    More typically, I build drawer sides from 6mm thick boards, and am happy to make boxes 6-8mm thick.





    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    You guys in Oz get all the cool looking wood
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,847
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    You guys in Oz get all the cool looking wood
    Yea, but they have to fight giant spiders and snakes to get it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,564
    Rob,

    Great looking boxes. Is the lid on the slider solid or plywood? Any trouble with it trying to potato chip?


    Derek,

    That box with the barrel top.....does it also have an upper drawer, or is it a hinged lid?
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
    Posts
    3,071
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    Rob,

    Great looking boxes. Is the lid on the slider solid or plywood? Any trouble with it trying to potato chip?
    It's a solid piece. It's some material I've had in the basement for about 15 years and is pretty stable. It was originally used in bent laminated jamb extenders on round top windows. I normally use it for splines and such but this seemed like a low risk proposition. When I applied Danish Oil to the exterior it soaked right through the whole thickness. After I wiped off the excess I slid it closed to cure and this may have served to "sticker" it while it hardened up. In any case it remained substantially flat. There's a little friction but just enough to keep the lid closed. No magnets required for this one.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •