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Thread: Auction Shaper - T45 Griggio

  1. #16
    Yes , a good array. I’ve used mainly old fashioned smooth shaper knives and corg stuff. Using corg with a bearing ,it’s often hard to
    get the cut at exactly the right depth. I had a set of 3 bearings made that divide the space of one corg into 3 parts . By using the right
    size bearing I can get the cut in the right place.

  2. #17
    Looks like Jared covered it pretty well.

    As Mel noted above, getting a bearing that matches the OD exactly of the carbide / helical spiral type head (or other - Corg / straight knife type head) is nice and allows for amazing results when flush cutting and template work.

    You have maybe seen a few videos I posted on IG last year of my 4x4 spiral helical head with matching bearing. I would like to have another smaller and shorter one as well that has a tighter radius and a shorter overall height for different sized work that is easier to bury under the table and/or doesn’t show so many teeth if using bearing on the bottom.

    As you may be gathering... lots of different ways to do stuff on the shaper and the tooling tech and safety has evolved over time. MAN rated and carbide insert tooling is very nice for the most used / heavy hitters and then having some type of Euro / combi head style block where you can choose from a wide array of off the shelf (or custom ground) high speed steel profiles, etc for the one off / lesser used situations is a good way to go if building your tooling collection from scratch.

    I started learning about shapers 2-3 years ago when I got my first one at an auction and still feel like there is so much I don’t know, but reading shaper threads here and other places can really open your eyes to the possibilities. I would love to be able to afford the time and $$ to take a week long shaper class with Joe / Alpine Workshops in CO, but that’s a bit out of reach for me these days.

    The adjustable groover is also one of my most used cutters. I have the 4-15mm Whitehill set and it seems to cover almost all scenarios I encounter and goes thinner than most, but it’s nice to have a thicker set as well that is rated to be inverted / flipped and can be used with a space between the 2 halves for smaller tenons. I can’t remember if my 4-15mm is rated for this application or not.

    Show us some photos of the meat and potatoes on that machine - spindle, OEM fence, the guts under the hood, etc. That model looks to be a similar size and capacity to the old SCM L’invincibile T160, though I doubt the Griggio has a re-circulating oil pump system for the bearings.
    Last edited by Phillip Mitchell; 03-22-2023 at 8:08 AM.
    Still waters run deep.

  3. #18
    Forgot to add: Post a few photos of the roller wheels on the power feeder and folks here may be able to advise on if you should replace or not. They definitely wear and loose their grip over time and all tires are not created equal.

    I really like the yellow (duro 60?) tires from Western Roller. You can call them up and tell them the make/model of your feeder and they can supply exact replacement wheels + tires that bolt on to your existing shaper for a reasonable price and will likely be much better than what is there currently, assuming they are not new.
    Still waters run deep.

  4. #19
    I really think versatility is your best friend in your first tooling selection. Getting professional quality results with flexible tooling is very rewarding but let's you reflect on what you can justify spending additional money on in the way of "one trick ponies" that would probably be more efficient, but more expensive too.

    No question some tenoning tooling would be great, but am going to suggest it's a bit more advanced and might be good to hold off till some experience/training is aquired.

    Stephenson's book: "Spindle Moulders Handbook" would be a great thing to accompany any new tooling!

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    Forgot to add: Post a few photos of the roller wheels on the power feeder and folks here may be able to advise on if you should replace or not. They definitely wear and loose their grip over time and all tires are not created equal.

    I really like the yellow (duro 60?) tires from Western Roller. You can call them up and tell them the make/model of your feeder and they can supply exact replacement wheels + tires that bolt on to your existing shaper for a reasonable price and will likely be much better than what is there currently, assuming they are not new.
    I have settled on the yellow ones too. 15 years ago when I got my first power feeder, the wheels had very little wear so looked great but had hardened up and lost their grip. The problem was I didn't know what they were supposed to feel like new untill I worked on another machine and realized mine were well beyond the expiriy date! Fresh wheels are a treat.

  6. #21
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    I couldn't find a way to add photos from my cell and by the time the day was over yesterday I was ready to just chill out. Here are some photos and potential problems I see or just simply issues I haven't had time to look into more.

    1) Missing button lower right on panel (on / off switch I'm guessing?)
    2) How do I take off the saw blade? Anyway to brake the motor w/o electricity?
    3) The lever that switches between height and angle adjustment to be driven by motor: the switch works for height, the lever does not move / fully engage with the height adj
    4) There is another lever on the side panel that goes to a cable line (beefy version of a rear derailleur cable) that is disconnected. It's a really long cable. It's from the lever on the upper left called Libro / Free. Is this used to stop the arbor from spinning?
    5) I am assuming the top panel green button with lever are the brakes for the arbor?
    6) The power feeder tires definitely need replacement.


    It's resting place (yes my shop is constantly getting organized and undone. It's also quite ugly. Enjoy ):
    20230321_174004.jpg

    Top Panel:
    20230321_090215.jpg

    Side Panel. I'm not sure what the Libra / Free lever is supposed to do. Lock the arbor from turning or lock the arbor from moving vertically. I think the first. There are knobs to turn into both the vert shaft and the tilt shaft that stops movement. I also don't know what the middle upper knob does yet.

    20230321_173143.jpg


    The insides. You can see the buried pulley / motor. That motor is for the height and tilt. It is not fully engaging for height.
    20230321_173241.jpg

    The Libra / Free lever from the inside of the box:
    20230321_172803.jpg

    The loose end of the cable:
    20230321_172750.jpg


    The spindle, etc raised up. Looks like a nut, two bushings and then the blade. Can't tell if those are just spacers beneath the blade or what. Not sure how to get the blade off / loosen the nut.
    20230321_172436.jpg

    The table has been ridiculously dinged.
    20230321_173718.jpg
    Last edited by andrew whicker; 03-22-2023 at 9:38 AM.

  7. #22
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    +2 or I guess 3. You can't go wrong with WR and yellow wheels.
    20191024_204532.jpg

  8. #23
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    20230321_173210.jpg

    What I'm assuming is the original fence.
    20230321_093852.jpg

    And for your viewing pleasure. I hired a guy that does tractor work to unload it for me. He was a tractor ninja. I took this photo before he drove his truck over and let it rest over the blade because we couldn't add enough weight. Then I drove out from under the forks and he let the pallet down. Took a lot of ingenuity to get it to it's final resting place. We even got to do a little Egyptian roller magic.

    Also, I never stop enjoying the view from my garage door. : )

    (Trashy trailers in background not mine. Shared space)

    20230321_095250.jpg
    Last edited by andrew whicker; 03-22-2023 at 9:55 AM.

  9. #24
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    Anyway, today is a hustle handyman day so I won't have a lot of time to explore this stuff and I've gotten behind on some quotes for April / May work which is obviously right around the corner. Will probably not have time to do much (a few hours here and there) for this week.

  10. #25
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    1) Missing button lower right on panel (on / off switch I'm guessing?)

    It's missing the e-stop button

    2) How do I take off the saw blade? Anyway to brake the motor w/o electricity?

    The spindle lock needs to be engaged



    4) There is another lever on the side panel that goes to a cable line (beefy version of a rear derailleur cable) that is disconnected. It's a really long cable. It's from the lever on the upper left called Libro / Free. Is this used to stop the arbor from spinning?

    Yes that was the spindle lock, it looks broken. That pin end of the cable should be mounted in the quill.

    5) I am assuming the top panel green button with lever are the brakes for the arbor?

    Green Button looks like the start button. The first switch looks like a remote selector for the power up/down and power tilt on the base. The second switch is fwd/reverse

    Edit to add that is a 9hp (6.6kw) motor per the data plate. I only mention as your moulding post has it as 4hp. If you are using a rpc or vfd and you thought it was 4hp you will need to verify the sizing.
    Last edited by Jared Sankovich; 03-22-2023 at 9:46 AM.

  11. #26
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    What do you think the lever is right above the green button? that looks like a brake symbol.?

    They found some way to install and un-install cutter bodies, etc without the cable attached.
    Last edited by andrew whicker; 03-22-2023 at 9:50 AM.

  12. #27
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    I will have to clean out the wood chips and take off the side panel to see what is going on. All of the mechanisms are hidden from view. I'm not sure why the height / tilt lever isn't pushing all the way towards height. Probably just something easy to see and fix without the cover on.

    re-lube everything, etc.

  13. #28
    On my Griggio that black switch above the green button is a master on/off switch. On position then green button will start the motor. The off position will kill the motor / stop the spindle but my machine (T1000) does not appear to have a brake on it so it just coasts down.
    Still waters run deep.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    On my Griggio that black switch above the green button is a master on/off switch. On position then green button will start the motor. The off position will kill the motor / stop the spindle but my machine (T1000) does not appear to have a brake on it so it just coasts down.
    Ahhh Okay. Now I get it. So there are two way to kill it: e button or lever.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich View Post

    Edit to add that is a 9hp (6.6kw) motor per the data plate. I only mention as your moulding post has it as 4hp. If you are using a rpc or vfd and you thought it was 4hp you will need to verify the sizing.

    Ah,you're right. I've been doing so much back and forth research I must have had something else on my mind. Anyway, my leased building is a POS in many ways, but it has tons of power. I have plenty of 3 phase power and breaker space. Thanks for seeing that.

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