It doesn't need to be anything fancy. Just send me what you have. They don't suffer much wear from slicing glazing. I only sharpened that chisel to start with on all those large 1850 windows.
Thanks Tom, will do. Sending you PM
Tom using Dap do I still need to install those points, if so would Amazon be place? I don’t know what proper name for those points hold in glass
Without a point driver to shoot the little ones, I wouldn't use the bigger ones that you have to push in with a screwdriver. This 1974 window doesn't have any. The interior is varnished, and the varnish is still stuck to the glass. I did shoot a couple to hold the panes in those 1850 windows, but I do have a couple of old Red Devil point drivers. I've probably fixed more old windows without them than with.
The only reason you need them is to hold the glass in if all the glazing comes out, but this stuff is sticky enough that if it ever gets to the point of all falling out then there is much more to that building that will need help than just worrying about the windows.
Points that are the least bit too large are a real aggravation, especially if trimming with a chisel, you don't want to hit one with the chisel.
For newer windows, I use a guide board to run the chisel on so it all comes out uniform. On the really old houses we want it to look hand done, so the chisel is just guided by hand and is what we want.
For this 1974 window, I'm using a guide.
The glazing is still not set up as much as I'd like for the final trim, so I didn't go all the way down with this pass. I just made a light cut to show the idea. The smoother you get it, the easier the final step of painting is.
I don't know what the angle is. It's different on different windows. I put a board in place, and eyeball the angle to mark it on the end so that the glazing ends up a sixteenth or so short of the edge of the muntin profile inside.
I'm going to let this thread go as good enough now. People are coming to rent this house this weekend, so I'm going to finish it some kind of way in the next couple of days.
With more rain coming, and running out of time, I just went ahead and trimmed them after lunch, and painted them. Took the scaffolding down too. There is still some trimming that can be done with a razor blade after the paint sets, but they're good enough for now on that end of the house. The Sherwin-Williams Rain Refresh was a lot more runny than regular Emerald that I'm used to.
I'll suck up all the shavings with a shop vac, hopefully before the rain gets here.
I found some Point Driver pictures. This is a Red Devil point driver. They are not made any more, but you can find them in antique stores or pay a lot of money for knock-offs. I found this one in the early '70's in a cigar box in a Grandfather's house with more than a lifetime supply of points for me and a couple of generations.
These points are a little over a 1/4" long the long way. They're small enough to not get in the way for glazing narrow muntins. The muntin/glazing bar in the picture is 5/8" wide.
I've never broken a glass with it. In some old windows I've found as many as 10 holding a single pane in. I only use 2, and then only use them if there is a chance that the pane may fall out when working on it, or when we use the really expensive hand blown panes as a little extra insurance.
Good afternoon and Happy Friday, I wish I would come across one of those tools but I stand better chance winning Lotto. So I may need search for those that push in with putty knife, but small. Like you were saying so that doesn’t stick out pass glazing caulk. On Monday a package will be heading your way, sorry for being excited about all of this. At 69 a person shouldn’t get excited about wood windows but it’s new to me. Tom I know I sound like broken record but knowledge is best thing a person can pass on to another, so thank you for sharing
I’ll be 73 in June. Not really slowed up a lot other than getting going first thing in the mornings. I'm sitting around half the time waiting on my 107 year old Mother, so this is a good pastime. That house is just a couple of hundred yards from ours, so it's been good to have projects while I have to stay here anyway.
Last edited by Tom M King; 05-05-2023 at 10:22 PM.
Good grief 107 that is amazing, good country living, give that lady hug for me tell her it’s from Tx congratulations 🎈 She is a walking history book with experience.
Tom I need to kinda make dam for epoxy so that I can repair shoulder where wood rotted away. I was thinking of using one stir sticks wrap with that clear packaging tape. Would epoxy stick to it, or will it release it after epoxy sets up?
Last edited by Carroll Courtney; 05-06-2023 at 7:28 AM.
I'm not sure if it would stick, or not. Babysit it while it sets, and it can be sliced off with a razor blade at just the right time before it gets hard, but after it's too soft.
Will give it try, I figured that epoxy sticks to anything. Maybe chisels will be on way today or Monday, I'm not in no race Tom so if there is such a thing as extra time, if/when you have extra time.
Guys my thicker epoxy came in yesterday, so I am giving it try. Area that is rotten is towards the profile, so I am going to try to build it up little at a time so that the glass will have a solid surface to set. These are two different pics. Thanks Tom for help along way
Tom today I scrape those two areas somewhat smooth. I added another layer of thick epoxy to try get those dips level with the shoulder. I am giving it some thought to maybe buy another scraper from Lee Valley so I don't have keep changing from square to round. Each day I do little fine tuning on each sash and add little of the penetrating epoxy to areas that I over look. I tell yea, if I was doing this for living I would have to fire myself. Dang its lot of work, but the two sashes started with I knew was going to be a big challenge for this rookie.
Glad hear that Tom, I was hoping that I could put a bead of caulk. I was going to ask but thought you might need break from all my questions 🙂Thanks for hanging in
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