If you can get dry treated lumber, it would be great. I can't buy it around here but I always have some drying.
I built this cupola out of some of my drying for years treated lumber, including the sash. It still looks just like this several years later. I primed it and painted it with Sherwin-Williams best.
SW has an Emerald called Rain Refresh now. I've used it, and it was nice to paint those 1974 windows with, but it will be a good while until we know if it's really better. I trust their chemistry though.
I always paint sash with gloss paint. It doesn't stay glossy as it accumulates dirt, but they clean right up with yearly washing with hose end Windex sprayers, and make the windows shine. I have several old museum houses I keep up. They say it makes no difference, but it always seems to me like gloss paint washes easier.
Good information thanks for sharing, that’s what I’m after. I’ve used Emerald on my kitchen cabinets, the paint itself is fantastic but my spraying ability not so much. 40.00 qt but it’s nice using good paint for change
Tom, I watch few Youtubes on epoxy TotalBoat which can also serve as glue for loose joints in sashes. They also use acetone to thin epoxy so go little deeper into joints and soak into wood little more. I order the qt size for now so looking forward to using it. Thanks for recommendation
Since you're going to have to reglaze them anyway, it will be easiest overall to go ahead and take the glass out so you can use the heat gun on every part of it.
Again, make sure to tie the cord ends together so it can't come unplugged. It has a built in cool down period when you hit the off button. If it comes unplugged it doesn't know to do the cool down.
Don't breathe the fumes. It's approaches a 100% chance that it has lead in it.
I guess a person would call this a refurbish of sashes. Not having any experience at this at all and learning about products I never heard of before such as Penetrating Epoxy is fantastic. The window frames themselves are just to far gone, so that's going to be new. The sashes is really what I was after when I purchase about 10 windows that came out of same house. Some of the sashes are better than others which was covered and some had a lot of sun and rain on them. My plan is to remove all glass and glazing which lot of it will be easy to remove. I would say that all the joint including the mullions are loose,so I hope that the penetrating epoxy will soak into joints glue them back together. I think for the most part that it was paint that held the sashes together.
Tom the heat gun is fantastic, I use the scraper first then go to heat gun. I need to get me a good wire brush like yours, cause lot of paint is flakey. I'll post pic later after little progress is made. Thanks
I heat a spot before the scraper ever touches it. Bubble up a few square inches, and push it off. I think that wire brush came from the Sherwin-Williams store.
If a joint is loose, you probably want to use regular epoxy. It will fill a gap better than the penetrating. I like the West Systems high density thickener. Silica will work too, but it's so light that it's a bit aggravating to get into the epoxy. Don't breathe either.
I haven't found any difference to amount to anything in Painters 5-N-1 scrapers, but the stainless steel ones can't be sharpened as sharp or as easily as the regular ones.
For files, I like Simonds 8" Smooth Mill File red tail. Sharpen the 1" and 5-N-1 with complete strokes across the full width of the edge. Couldn't find a link to a single file, but these are the ones you want. Professional flooring supply places sell them. The place that sells the 1" scraper probably does. Get a handle that fits your hand. Wrap it when you store it between uses, don't back up with it, and it will last for this use for a Long time.
Thanks Tom for links, the scraper I have is digging into wood cause not even close to profile. So I just order what you suggested plus extra blades. Visited your website Tom it’s awesome
My penetrating epoxy came in Sunday but waiting for my LV scraper to come in. But the sash I am kinda practicing on its racks some due to joints that has dried out. So I think going to square sash up then mix little epoxy try pour into joints. Since this is going be slow process I’ll do couple joints then next day rotate sash. Do epoxy again till work way all way around. Still have paint to remove so this also be test for joints. We shall see if this works for me, being a first timer.
Dang, thanks for that info. Will do and try clean those joints and get sash ready for epoxy. But yesterday while cleaning paint off one muntin came out. Wondering if thick viscosity super glue would hold it in. Till able to use epoxy on it?
OMGoodness, you talk about quality. Yes this is my first purchase from Lee Valley, this detail scraper is all about quality. Dang even the profile blades is sharp. I have say that this is money well spent thanks to Tom for recommendation. This will make life so much easier. scraper.jpg
Last edited by Carroll Courtney; 04-05-2023 at 4:53 PM.
It's also easy to burn your hand with it, since it's so small to use close to the heat gun. Heat a section of paint to bubble up, move the gun away, and then move the little scraper in to work. The bubbled up paint is hot enough to burn skin too. Those blades last about forever in this work.
I would epoxy the muntin in when you get into the epoxy work.
Tom would 405 be good for filling in small voids? Tom I like to use one of those syringes to put epoxy right where I need it. So not to thick if possible
Last edited by Carroll Courtney; 04-24-2023 at 1:09 PM.
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