Using a Combination Plane for Stopped Plowing, Fluting, Beading etc

[Jim Koepke]

There is an old saying, “the third time is the charm.” This is my third time posting on making stopped cuts with a combination plane. Let us hope the charm chimes and brings about an ability to explain one method of using a combination plane (in this case a Stanley #45) to make stopped cuts.

The first steps to consider are the layout and the set up of the plane. Notice the stop and start lines are extended. This is so they can be used to see where to start and stop when the plane is in use. Another method would be to use stop blocks either in front and back of the plane or the fence.

Layout & Stop Cut.jpg

Here the area to plow a stopped cut is drawn on a piece of scrap wood. A chisel is used to make a ‘stop cut’. In retrospect the stop cut should have been a little further into the waste area, maybe by an 1/8” or more.

Setting up the plane is the “trick” in this method.

What may be the most difficult part of this method to understand for many combination plane users is keeping the plane’s skates above the surface of the work. This is done by setting the depth stops lower than the bottom edges of the skates. The depth stops become the plane’s sole.

Setting All Stops.jpg

Here the skates are held above the surface of the work piece by a couple pieces of plastic. It is okay to use couple of business cards or even pieces cut from a cereal box as long as they are the same thickness front and back. I’ve used feeler gauges in the past. If credit cards are used just be sure to stay off of the raised letters & numbers.

A square is used to make sure the plane body is at a right angle to the work.

This can work with less than four stops, but if you got ‘em use ‘em.

Right Side Stops.jpg

The main depth stop and the slitter stop are set on the right side

Left Side Stops.jpg

An auxiliary stop and a cam stop are set on the right side.

With all the stops set the plane should rest on the work without any rocking or wobling.

Light Under the Skates.jpg

This image is from the previous day with the blade retracted. It shows light under the skates. It was made without a chiseled stop cut and shows what can happen if the plane goes beyond the stopping point.

The cutter clamp bolt (blade locking bolt) should be a little less than fully tight. I found a sweet spot where the blade is held secure yet allowed the blade to be advanced.

With the fence set and the blade set to take a minimal cut align the blade with the back line and move it forward to the front line. After a cut check the blade to make sure it hasn’t moved laterally. This should be done after every cut.

Checking the Blade.jpg

It is difficult to see in the image but my right thumb is pressing down at the top of the blade and my left thumb is pressing at the bottom.

The blade can now be advanced about a half turn of the adjuster wheel. This should take a shaving of about 0.016” thickness. If this is difficult, only advance a quarter turn for a thinner cut.

If the going gets tough before reaching the stop cut, the back of the tote can be lightly bumped with the heel of your hand.

Bump Cut.jpg

After a few strokes, this is what you should see.

Four Strokes Later.jpg

At the starting end there will be a ramp. This is because each time the blade is advanced it also moves forward in relation to everything else. This area can be removed with a chisel.

At the end of the cut the area ahead of the stop cut can also be removed to make it a bit neater looking.

I will try to answer any questions or clarify any confusion.

There are some more techniques to use with making stopped cuts. They will be posted later if there is interest.

Note: Though this came to me while trying to understand a common anomaly seen with the Stanley #45, it is actually a variation of a technique shown in the Stanley #55 instructions for molded and stopped chamfers.

jtk

[Stew Denton]

Jim,

Wow! This is a great technique, and I am sure it will be useful for a lot of us. I haven't used my 45 a lot, but hope to in the future when I finally get time and a place to do some fine woodworking instead of just doing carpentry on our house. (A shop is still a ways off though.)

It looks like this same basic approach could be used on other combination planes if they have the spots for depth stops in the corners.

In spite of not having used my 45 a lot, I have greatly enjoyed using it on the occasions when it was needed. My problem to this point is only thinking of it as a more or less "last resort" instead of thinking of it as a primary tool. Something that will very likely change when I can get to some fine woodworking.

Thanks for the great post.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,

Wow! This is a great technique, and I am sure it will be useful for a lot of us. I haven't used my 45 a lot, but hope to in the future when I finally get time and a place to do some fine woodworking instead of just doing carpentry on our house. (A shop is still a ways off though.)

It looks like this same basic approach could be used on other combination planes if they have the spots for depth stops in the corners.

In spite of not having used my 45 a lot, I have greatly enjoyed using it on the occasions when it was needed. My problem to this point is only thinking of it as a more or less "last resort" instead of thinking of it as a primary tool. Something that will very likely change when I can get to some fine woodworking.

Thanks for the great post.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

You are welcome Stew.

It is possible to use this technique without a depth stop in each corner. In one instance an outboard wooden sole was made for use on a #45.

Auxiliary Sole.jpg

That also allows the plane to be used against a batten. With a batten one could use multiple pieces between the plane and batten and remove them between strokes and work multiple slots for decorative purposes.

Instead of a tool of last resort, think of it as a tool to do the jobs others can't.

Mine has often been used as a rabbet plane. It is great when wanting to add an embellishments to a piece. A bead on a table apron or along the front of a shelf may look better than a plane flat surface. On a shelf, an edge bead top and bottom with the space between them plowed out really pops.

A combination plane can also be used to make dowels when one doesn't want to make a run to a store. That has helped me a few times. The nearest store to my with dowels is about 15 miles away. If working late at night, it might be closed. A few could be made in the time it takes me to drive there and back.

jtk

[Edward Weber]

Well I don't have one of those and it's not something I'm going to try anytime soon BUT
I give you great credit for not only sticking with it but posting the technique for the rest of us.
Thanks

[Stew Denton]

Jim,

I think your wording is better than mine, as far as my intent is concerned. You wrote: "Instead of a tool of last resort, think of it as a tool to do the jobs others can't." I think that is where I am at now also, rather than the way I worded it in my post above.

Before spending a lot of time on this site over the years I used some hand tools a lot, primarily hand saws and chisels, etc., doing carpentry. I did have a plane or two, primarily using my block plane and also a #5 some, but most of that by far was in terms of carpentry work, not fine woodwork.

However, when thinking of say cutting a dado, my thinking was "router table", or "table saw with dado blade", etc. Now I think "Stanley 45" or perhaps "table saw & dado blades," depending on how many I need to do. That said, I like the 45 drastically more than using the table saw.

The fact is, however, I much prefer hand saws or the 45 to using the table saw anyway. The noise, dust, and general mess of the table saw just does not appeal, and I have preferred hand tools for many years. Some times, just due to the amount of work that needs to be done, the table saw saves so much time that I use it even if I prefer the hand tools.

Thus your post has expanded what I can do with my 45, so it is, again, much appreciated.

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks for the kind words Stew.

In a previous post a picture of a wooden outboard sole was shown. This was my first attempt at making such a thing and there were improvements to be made. The first outboard sole was made using the slitter stop and an auxiliary stop. Of course this requires the removal of the regular depth stop. This is likely easier than using the regular stop and then taking things apart and putting them back together again.

This can be used like a sole to keep the plane's skates elevated or to use as a fence against a batten clamped or nailed to the work.

This time a thinner piece of ash was chosen. The thick piece of alder used before required some modification to the slitter stop other than drilling a hole for a mounting screw.

Marking Wood Sole Batten Fence for Drilling.jpg

The piece is held slightly away from the skates by a shim that isn’t seen in this image. Marks are being drawn on the wood to drill holes for mounting screws. The front stop has a new hole drilled and countersunk for a #3-3/8” flat head wood screw. (okay so I buy a lot of odd hardware at secondhand stores)

It is hard to see my pencil scratches where wood needs to be removed to keep shavings from jamming.

The wooden sole needs to have parallel sides. It also needs to be parallel to the sole.

Checking Sole for Parallel.jpg

Here feeler gauges are being used to check the skate is parallel to the wooden sole/batten fence. There are only two screws holding the wood to the stops. The rear stopped is fixed. The front stop can rotate a little. With the front stop loose the wood can be adjusted to parallel and then tighten the locking screw.

If a set of feeler gauges is not available a pieces of scrap wood can be cut to size and used. Holding a few odd pieces of scrap wood was combersome.

Stanley#45 With Outbord Sole - Batten Fence.jpg

If time allows I will set this up with a batten for some more pictures.

jtk

[James Pallas]

Jim, Extremely kind of you to do those posts. You could not have done better. Being a 45 user I feel much the same. I definitely see the plane as a problem solver and not at all a problem. When confronted with a problem my thoughts go straight to my 45 to see if there is a way it will work.
Jim

[Stew Denton]

Jim,

I like the idea you show here of using the two stops to support the outboard sole you made. I also like your idea that this can be used against a batten. To me, this looks like an easier way to control the depth and keep things aligned and level. Thanks for adding this additional idea. Again, another way to use the 45, making it even more useful than it already is.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

Jim & Stew, you are welcome and thanks for the kind words.

Stew when using an outboard sole, if not making stopped cuts, it can ride against the batten while being the depth stop.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Most often a combination plane is used with the fence off of the edge of a workbench or sticking board. On occasion it may be used on work requiring the fence to be above the surface of a bench:

Working Two Pieces w:Stanley #45.jpg

Here there are two pieces being worked on siamotainously making stopped cuts. The clamp is holding a block against the work to prevent sideways movement. The second piece is being held against side movement by wedges against a bench dog.

These pieces are being prepped for runners on a bench with a hinged top to allow small items to be stored inside the bench. After this, a note was written on the ogee template to do all the plowing work before shaping the ends.

Also note on the blade box there is a line made by a permanent marker. This is on both ends of the box. The blade boxes are kept on a shelf. The beading blade box has a mark with a dip in the middle to indicate it holds beading blades. This makes it easier to pick the desired box when only the ends are visible.

Working thin stock on top of a bench may create a problem with the fence being lower than the plane’s skates and causing the plane to tilt. With later models having a micro adjustable fence there is a solution. The rods and adjusting screw are on the same center line but not centered on the rosewood runner:

Adjustable Fence Centerl Lne.jpg

The fence runner assembly can be flipped over to allow a little more clearance.

When the fence runner assembly has been removed it is important to make sure it is reassembled correctly.

Adjustment Range Detal - Fence.jpg

There is a gap in this image. The movable section should be able to touch the main casting. To insure this, the adjustment screw needs to be retracted about 1-1/4 turns from fully engaged before the runner assembly is engaged with the threads.

With larger work it may be one wants to work further from the edge than the length of the rods allow. It may not be practical to set up a batten. For a few extra inches an older type fence may be the answer.

Extra Reach with Old Style Fence.jpg

The face on the outside of the old style fences were usually flat enough to ride the edge of the work. This will provide a few more inches reach from the edge when needed.

jtk