There is an old saying, “the third time is the charm.” This is my third time posting on making stopped cuts with a combination plane. Let us hope the charm chimes and brings about an ability to explain one method of using a combination plane (in this case a Stanley #45) to make stopped cuts.
The first steps to consider are the layout and the set up of the plane. Notice the stop and start lines are extended. This is so they can be used to see where to start and stop when the plane is in use. Another method would be to use stop blocks either in front and back of the plane or the fence.
Layout & Stop Cut.jpg
Here the area to plow a stopped cut is drawn on a piece of scrap wood. A chisel is used to make a ‘stop cut’. In retrospect the stop cut should have been a little further into the waste area, maybe by an 1/8” or more.
Setting up the plane is the “trick” in this method.
What may be the most difficult part of this method to understand for many combination plane users is keeping the plane’s skates above the surface of the work. This is done by setting the depth stops lower than the bottom edges of the skates. The depth stops become the plane’s sole.
Setting All Stops.jpg
Here the skates are held above the surface of the work piece by a couple pieces of plastic. It is okay to use couple of business cards or even pieces cut from a cereal box as long as they are the same thickness front and back. I’ve used feeler gauges in the past. If credit cards are used just be sure to stay off of the raised letters & numbers.
A square is used to make sure the plane body is at a right angle to the work.
This can work with less than four stops, but if you got ‘em use ‘em.
Right Side Stops.jpg
The main depth stop and the slitter stop are set on the right side
Left Side Stops.jpg
An auxiliary stop and a cam stop are set on the right side.
With all the stops set the plane should rest on the work without any rocking or wobling.
Light Under the Skates.jpg
This image is from the previous day with the blade retracted. It shows light under the skates. It was made without a chiseled stop cut and shows what can happen if the plane goes beyond the stopping point.
The cutter clamp bolt (blade locking bolt) should be a little less than fully tight. I found a sweet spot where the blade is held secure yet allowed the blade to be advanced.
With the fence set and the blade set to take a minimal cut align the blade with the back line and move it forward to the front line. After a cut check the blade to make sure it hasn’t moved laterally. This should be done after every cut.
Checking the Blade.jpg
It is difficult to see in the image but my right thumb is pressing down at the top of the blade and my left thumb is pressing at the bottom.
The blade can now be advanced about a half turn of the adjuster wheel. This should take a shaving of about 0.016” thickness. If this is difficult, only advance a quarter turn for a thinner cut.
If the going gets tough before reaching the stop cut, the back of the tote can be lightly bumped with the heel of your hand.
Bump Cut.jpg
After a few strokes, this is what you should see.
Four Strokes Later.jpg
At the starting end there will be a ramp. This is because each time the blade is advanced it also moves forward in relation to everything else. This area can be removed with a chisel.
At the end of the cut the area ahead of the stop cut can also be removed to make it a bit neater looking.
I will try to answer any questions or clarify any confusion.
There are some more techniques to use with making stopped cuts. They will be posted later if there is interest.
Note: Though this came to me while trying to understand a common anomaly seen with the Stanley #45, it is actually a variation of a technique shown in the Stanley #55 instructions for molded and stopped chamfers.
jtk