Easy Wood Hollowing Tool

[Izzy Charo]

I've been using this tool (#6305, Full Size #3 Carbide Insert) to hollow in the transition area of bowls....and not in particularly difficult areas...but I'm getting rather violent catches, and I don't understand why. The tool is not extended far over the tool rest, I'm taking light cuts. Is the carbide insert wrong (it's the one that shipped with the tool). Thanks for all advice!

[Adam Wager]

We may need more information about how you are presenting the tool to the wood. Is that one of the bent tools or the straight tool? If it is one of the ones with a bend in it, the tool needs to rest on the tool rest behind the bend (between the handle and the start of the bend) to keep the cutting edge in line with the part of the tool that is supported by the rest. If the bend itself is resting on the tool rest then the cutting edge will be well off to the side of the support point and the torque will be much greater, which could cause the tool to roll leading to a pretty spectacular catch.

[Dave VanDewerker]

If this hollowing tool is like mine, the carbide insert is not a flat scraper type insert, my insert is more of a "cup" shaped insert and it will catch badly if I try to use it perpendicular to the piece. I skew the tool quite a bit when using it.

[Bruce Jones]

These tools are almost all I use anymore, Do not hold the cutting blade at the same angle as the tool rest. Angle the cutter to more like 35 degrees to 45 degrees there is a sweet spot you need to find. Once you find the proper angle you will be able to get a much better cut and feel for these tools.

Bruce

[Randy Heinemann]

The Easy Wood hollowing tools are made with a flat section on the shaft. That flat shaft must be resting on the tool rest. If you are turning with the the curved portion on the tool rest the tool will turn downward. The flat section is in line with the cutter and, therefore, keeps ths tool stable when cutting. This all means that the tool rest must be at least far enough back sot that when the cutter contacts the wood, the flat part of the shaft is in contact with the tool rest.

[Brice Rogers]

In addition to the other good comments, I would like to add something. When working inside of a hollow form on a side wall, it is advisable to contact the wood at or (even better yet) slightly above center. That way, if you start to get a catch it'll pull the cutter down to a point where the inside diameter is larger. That reduces the amount of catch or perhaps eliminates the catch.

When I'm working on the bottom of a bowl/hollow form, I sometimes use my homemade box tool rest. I can stick it into the opening of the bowl/HF and the overhang can be less than an inch. In my opinion, the more overhang, the greater the chance of a catch. Also, when working within a hollow form from the front of the lathe, the turner typically had their arms extended and that lack of control can lead to more and bigger catches. Some turners will improve this position by turning in reverse. I just walk around to the rear of the lathe and turn from the backside with the tool tucked under my arm.

[Jim Morgan]

A negative-rake replacement cutter would be much less prone to catch.

[Bernie Kopfer]

A negative-rake replacement cutter would be much less prone to catch.

This I have found to be true in my experience.

[Izzy Charo]

Thanks for all the replies! To clarify, this is the full-size tool with the bend on the end. I have been keeping the flat part of the tool on the tool rest, and also trying to minimize the length of tool over the rest. I've ordered the negative-rake replacement cutter head... I did notice that my tool shipped with a very small diameter cutter head, smaller than the one I just ordered, and I wonder if that's part of the issue....a very small diameter cutter getting "trapped" between larger ridges on the bowl interior? Hopefully the NR cutter head will do better..

[Dave Mount]

If this is a flat top scraper, you might try cutting a little above centerline *when hollowing*. If you're right at centerline and the cutter drops at all, it can self feed and catch. Cutting above centerline with a flat top scraper gives you a cutting geometry similar to a negative rake scraper. If the tip of the tool drops while you're cutting, to he cutting edge falls away from the wood instead of into it.

I emphasize *when hollowing* above, because the opposite is true when working the outside. Working above the centerline on the outside will induce a catch.

Best,

Dave

[Randy Heinemann]

Thanks for all the replies! To clarify, this is the full-size tool with the bend on the end. I have been keeping the flat part of the tool on the tool rest, and also trying to minimize the length of tool over the rest. I've ordered the negative-rake replacement cutter head... I did notice that my tool shipped with a very small diameter cutter head, smaller than the one I just ordered, and I wonder if that's part of the issue....a very small diameter cutter getting "trapped" between larger ridges on the bowl interior? Hopefully the NR cutter head will do better..

If you have a pro-size hollower, the size of the cutter is Ci3. The mid-size uses a Ci5. I don't know the difference in size, but I assume that you know you must replace it with the same size cutter or NR cutter. The Ci3 cutter does look small, but it works for me well.

Another possibiliy regarding catches is that, when getting to the bottom, the cutter travels just past the center. This would grab the cutter. When I first started hollowing I wasn't careful and that occurred a couple of times before I realized what I was doing.

While I usually don't hollow with the carbide tools anymore, I have used the #3 Easy Wood hollower with the standard cutter and I don't get catches. I also found that trying to take too big a bite with these carbide tools can grab the tool also. I actualy sometimes use mine to smoothe ridges on the inside. Since it's really just a scraper anyway it works well for light cuts.

I know, for me, it just takes a lot of practice to get good at anything in turning. While the carbide tools like Easy Wood do tend to make turning easier, they still require practice.