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Thread: How do I keep this rolling laundry table from racking?

  1. #1
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    How do I keep this rolling laundry table from racking?

    After many iterations trying to accommodate all the constraints, here's the current design and overall dimensions for a rolling table to be used in our laundry room:

    Laundry Table.jpg

    Laundry Table Dims.jpg

    Materials are red oak and laminate covered plywood. Legs are 2x2 and rails are 1 1/2 x 3/4. Domino joinery. Top will be 1" thick, and shelves 3/4".

    I'm worried about it racking (Perhaps needlessly?). Normal fix would be to use taller rails with multiple tenons, but I don't have room to increase the rails and still fit the necessary "stuff" on the shelves. And it's already a little taller overall than I would prefer.

    Here's one solution I'm pretty sure would work, essentially embedding T braces in the middle and lower rail to leg joints:

    T Brace.jpg

    It would be a bit fussy, but not too bad, and invisible once assembled. I didn't bother to show the screws holding the brace in place.

    But I'm looking for opinions and options. First, will racking likely be a problem? (It won't have tons of weight on it, and won't be rolled very far or often) If racking is a concern, are there easier/better ways to prevent it without changing dimensions?
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  2. #2
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    I would just double (or as much as is doable) the height of the top and bottom rails. Without a face or back to provide surface tension, racking can be a problem. Lateral support is your friend.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
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    I say you’re good without the T braces. The panels on the sides and back are good enough

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    I say you’re good without the T braces. The panels on the sides and back are good enough
    I didn't see a panel on the back. I saw a fold down surface. ???
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
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    In reality there is not much you can do without some kind of cross bracing pushing this around with a load abd bumping about on a less than smooth floor or bumping a doorway etc is going to get the racking started. From there it just gets worse.
    I don't understand the back panel I take that as a flip up table surface feature for ease of folding laundry so I am going on that premise.
    I would suggest investment in something like this , possibly a pair of them on the back side of the cart .

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wright-P...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I would imagine loaded with laundry wet or dry and rolling across the floor at some point the wheeels are going to jam up against something and rge racking stats from there and only gets worse.
    If the metal rod thing doesn't work for you then I would suggest some braided cable or even some para chord and a trunbuckle. I would certainly do something like this especially with the work contributed to build the cart.
    The paracord could arrangement to the design simply by cutting a proper channel or drilling a hole in the frame and stretching the cord and securing it with epoxy

    https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-rope-t...t-for-lifting/
    https://www.amazon.com/paracord/s?k=paracord
    calabrese55

  6. #6
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    Yes, the panel at the back is a drop leaf that can be folded up for more table top room and down so it will make the turn into the hallway. I should have explained that. I might be able to add 1/4 or at most 1/2 to the rails; that might be enough to get two dominos in. Or I could do the custom domino width route and make it as wide as possible.

    Don't think I can do a turnbuckle or cable as that would block access from one side. Because of the room arrangement, we really want to be able to access both sides which is why I didn't close in the "back".

    Thanks and keep those ideas coming!
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  7. #7
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    If you don't need access from both sides, put in a 1/4" back panel, then your racking worries are over. If you only enclose above or below the shelf it would be almost as sturdy as a full back panel.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
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  8. #8
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    If you can’t make the cross rails any taller and you can’t put a back panel on either shelf for shear stiffness, then strengthening the joint is the only real option I can think of. I think your T-brace idea sounds pretty reasonable. Either that or do full mortise and tenon joints.

  9. #9
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    Ok got it on the access. Try thinking about this...look at theway you have the top attached. It is a solid sheet attached to the frame thereby stiffing it. If you do the exact same thing on the bottom of the cart , exactly the same mirror image of the top that is and then simply attach the coasters to the bottom plate you can avoid a bunch of racking in the lower structure of the cart. Think of it like a skateboard with a shelf built on top of it. I would also suggest adding some cross members at the 14 inch width top and bottom to stiffen up everything with the top and bottom.
    calabrese55

  10. #10
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    Perhaps by making a rigid connection between the fold down top and the leg it could act as a stiffener while moving the cart. Something like this

    2023-03-21_08h44_01.jpg which would need a block on the leg to flush it out with the fold down top, or maybe even this

    2023-03-21_08h44_48.jpg
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Carey View Post
    Perhaps by making a rigid connection between the fold down top and the leg it could act as a stiffener while moving the cart. Something like this

    2023-03-21_08h44_01.jpg which would need a block on the leg to flush it out with the fold down top, or maybe even this

    2023-03-21_08h44_48.jpg
    Good idea, thx! Most or all of the time when it's being rolled any distance the drop leaf will be down to get it through the door and into the hallway.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  12. #12
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    Switch from Domino to thru lap joints. Easy to do, just laminate the legs from 3/4" stock. Run the horizontals thru by 1/4" and double them so you get 3 glue surfaces at each joint. And if you can increase by 1/4" it will help. Round over the exposed edges for a 'nice to use' piece.

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