New Workbench Build and a Question

[Greg Parrish]

I'm finally starting on my workbench build. Picked up an initial batch of walnut and maple boards a couple of months ago and allowed them to acclimate in my shop since then. The wood I bought was kiln dried but rough cut in odd sizes so I'm having to pretty much mill everything myself. I'm using the Third Coast Craftsman Workbench plans, but also making my own modifications and adjustments. I'm building the 6' version and the bench will be against a wall with the front and two sides accessible. I have a Benchcrafted leg vise with retro crisscross for the left side and a Veritas sliding tail vise for the right side. While the plan design is a hybrid Roubo approach, I'm thinking of placing the Nicholson side outward for my usage with the vices on that side.

So, here is the question as I'm milling my pieces. Any issue with using different sized legs on a bench? I'm thinking a 5-1/2 x 4 leg in the front on both sides, and a 4-1/4 x 3-1/4 leg on the back two sides. Since this bench will spend its life against a wall, does anyone see any issue with this approach?

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[steven c newman]

Maybe it is just me.....I'd rather save the fancy wood for a Project....rather than use it in a WORK Bench....

[Jim Koepke]

Any issue with using different sized legs on a bench? I'm thinking a 5-1/2 x 4 leg in the front on both sides, and a 4-1/4 x 3-1/4 leg on the back two sides. Since this bench will spend its life against a wall, does anyone see any issue with this approach?

There should be no problem. If so desired you could likely bolt the back legs to the wall.

jtk

[William Fretwell]

I have no idea what the third coast plans are, out of the arctic? The size of the tenons is most crucial for stability of the cross braces and stretchers. They need to be very deep to provide leverage for stability.
This depth creates a long mortice that weakens the leg if it is not oversize to start. Start with the minimum width of tenon you can see working then make the leg 5 times that width.

Each of my bench stretchers weighs 45lbs, the deep through tenons are wedged. It’s not really a question of different sizes; just getting the smallest to be big enough.

Weight in the bench is not wasted, rigidity is essential.

[Christopher Charles]

Legs of different sizes of those dimensions shouldn’t be an issue assuming the joinery is sound in body and mind. I don’t know that design but if there’s only one wide apron, I’d put it in back.

[Tony Shea]

That's an interesting bench design, Nicholson mixed with Roubo. I'm not sure that this design makes much sense for your application if I'm being honest. I think the design of the bench is based around being able to access all sides and take advantage of a Nicholson apron on one side and the modified Roubo vise setup of the other side. I personally think a leg vise works much better in a standard Roubo style bench without the huge apron of the Nicholson. As long as you have the sliding deadman I see no reason to have that massive apron.

For you question, there is no reason different sized legs wouldn't work.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks for all the feedback. After posting the original post last night, I actually came across a website with a bench that looks pretty much like what I'm heading towards. Think I'm going to shift gears a little and build towards this approach which is more Roubo inspired but with the Veritas tail vise I have.

Not sure who's bench this is, but if you scroll to top of this page you can see the pictures:
https://imgur.com/gallery/UKVlv/comment/893746391

Given the shift in direction, I also think I'll just move forward with all 4 legs being same size at roughly 5-1/2 x 4. Will mean needing to source a little more wood, but that was probably going to be the case anyway. First leg was put into clamps last night. Left it plenty long to allow for any last minute design changes, so the shift in direction should be a non-issue. Honestly, I can probably still follow the directions more or less for the base trestle from the plans I have, and just modify them slightly to eliminate the Nicholson apron.

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[kenneth hatch]

I'm finally starting on my workbench build. Picked up an initial batch of walnut and maple boards a couple of months ago and allowed them to acclimate in my shop since then. The wood I bought was kiln dried but rough cut in odd sizes so I'm having to pretty much mill everything myself. I'm using the Third Coast Craftsman Workbench plans, but also making my own modifications and adjustments. I'm building the 6' version and the bench will be against a wall with the front and two sides accessible. I have a Benchcrafted leg vise with retro crisscross for the left side and a Veritas sliding tail vise for the right side. While the plan design is a hybrid Roubo approach, I'm thinking of placing the Nicholson side outward for my usage with the vices on that side.

So, here is the question as I'm milling my pieces. Any issue with using different sized legs on a bench? I'm thinking a 5-1/2 x 4 leg in the front on both sides, and a 4-1/4 x 3-1/4 leg on the back two sides. Since this bench will spend its life against a wall, does anyone see any issue with this approach?

FB5CEA98-A4BB-4D14-A442-76B6AE7442FC.jpg

E1C33FD6-4173-4604-8402-482967036908.jpg

51DEDEF7-C0B1-4F8F-BB7A-B311C4118D13.jpg

9E0315D5-D9B2-4923-AA6B-054DBCA3CEB2.jpg

Greg,

Your touching on my favorite hobby horse, benches that are to complex. Simple is your friend, it does not get in the way. A simple Moravian style bench, easy to build, cheap to build and stable as a bench twice its weight with just a face vise (BC screw with 14" crisscross is a treat) then go to work.

ken

[John Keeton]

I don’t have a fancy bench or one of a particular design. Mine was built from SYP lumber and was intended to be an all round shop bench and not a dedicated Neander bench. Over the years I have added improvements - vises, etc. and made modifications. It is bolted to the wall and solid as a rock. So, if you intend this bench to spend its life against the wall I agree with Jim - bolt it to the wall studs. You will appreciate the extra stability.

[Greg Parrish]

Just an an FYI to this thread, I started a separate bench build thread here https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....Log&highlight=

Ended up switching up the plan a little more and started following the Hybrid Workbench plans from The Wood Whisperer Guild. So far, I have the right leg assembly finished, and I’m working on the left leg assembly now. This one will take a little longer as I have to fit and mount my Benchcrafted classic leg vise with retro crisscross into the leg. This step will be done before the leg assembly gets glued up so that I can more easily work on the front leg itself.

[George Yetka]

https://www.thirdcoastcraftsman.com/...orkbench-plans

If your against getting more wood, What about having the stouter legs on the end you would most likely plane towards? Left side for a righty.

[Greg Parrish]

George, see my post right above yours. I changed plans that I'm following to the Hybrid Workbench from The Wood Whisperer Guild. I'm building it as a 6' bench with benchcrafted leg vise and veritas sliding tail vise. My link shows my progress to date. I have most of the wood needed now to finish the bench. I'm just lacking time to knock it out in quick order.

[kenneth hatch]

Greg,

Six foot is/maybe a little short to have a leg vise and a sliding tail vise on the same side. With workbenches simple tends to be good, complex can just get in the way of working and have you howling at the moon in short order. I'm not a fan of tail vises, I know some are, the Veritas dog with a screw through it and brass jaw works for the few times I want or need to use a tail vise.

The English/Roubo bench and straight Roubos, I've been there, done that and the English/French bench makes an OK storage bench with the apron against the wall. The straight Roubo holds plants and garden supplies in the back garden. The biggest problems with Roubo based benches are: Too Heavy (needs too much wood) because it relies on weight and very robust joints for stability, all that wood is expensive and the joinery is too complex and time consuming to make, there are designs that use less wood and the simplest joint that will do the job making the build quick, easy, less expensive and frankly a better bench for today's world. Come time to move a Roubo you need good friends with young backs or a forklift. A good workbench is a tool, the hoot factor doesn't make it better, just sells the sizzle not the meat.

Good luck on your build,
ken

P.S. love your shop dog. My two Labs are gone and I miss them a bunch.

[Eric Brown]

Can of worms, but what height do you plan on having the top of the bench? I would suggest you make the legs long and then try it before bolting to the wall. If it is too tall, make a platform to stand on to try different heights and once you determine a good height cut the legs and get rid of the platform.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks Ken, I appreciate the feedback.

Greg,

Six foot is/maybe a little short to have a leg vise and a sliding tail vise on the same side. With workbenches simple tends to be good, complex can just get in the way of working and have you howling at the moon in short order. I'm not a fan of tail vises, I know some are, the Veritas dog with a screw through it and brass jaw works for the few times I want or need to use a tail vise.

The English/Roubo bench and straight Roubos, I've been there, done that and the English/French bench makes an OK storage bench with the apron against the wall. The straight Roubo holds plants and garden supplies in the back garden. The biggest problems with Roubo based benches are: Too Heavy (needs too much wood) because it relies on weight and very robust joints for stability, all that wood is expensive and the joinery is too complex and time consuming to make, there are designs that use less wood and the simplest joint that will do the job making the build quick, easy, less expensive and frankly a better bench for today's world. Come time to move a Roubo you need good friends with young backs or a forklift. A good workbench is a tool, the hoot factor doesn't make it better, just sells the sizzle not the meat.

Good luck on your build,
ken

P.S. love your shop dog. My two Labs are gone and I miss them a bunch.

Eric, it’s going to be 34” tall. That is a comfortable height for me and it also falls just below my table saw which is roughly 34-1/4 tall.

Can of worms, but what height do you plan on having the top of the bench? I would suggest you make the legs long and then try it before bolting to the wall. If it is too tall, make a platform to stand on to try different heights and once you determine a good height cut the legs and get rid of the platform.