Flush trimming and chipping

[Patty Hann]

I'm making a T-Track table (30x36). **

I plan to glue the laminate to the top surface (1" MDF with WilsonArt type laminate...white).

I've read more than a dozen different articles on how to trim the laminate and do it without chipping/tearing/cracking the edges (will address routing the top for the tracks a little later)
That's a dozen variations on flush trimming the laminate.

Examples: use a round bearing...don't use a round bearing use a square bearing....use a square nylon (plastic/teflon) bearing.... use a long bit with 2 bearings... use a short bit (i.e.minimize the cutting edge)... flush trim with solid guide (no bearing).... spiral up-cut,...spiral down cut....super-dee-duper dual bearing compression geometry ("it slices, it dices, it makes Julienne fries"...)

Will someone (or several someones ) please help with this...what bit(s), best way(s), things to watch out for (especially the "never do [THIS]"), those little helps that can make a big difference ("always do [THIS]")

I haven't bought any bits yet, and I don't want to buy something that turns out to be not the best bit for doing this.
Even if I have to buy a couple different bits that's OK, so long as they give me the best results.

I have two compact routers, the Ridgid (my first one and it has served me very well) and also got the DeWalt Compact router (for Christmas).
I have the [aftermarket] oversized base plates for both but not the elongated base plate with the handle/grip on one end. Would it be a good idea to get one of those?

Thanks in advance to any and all who can help me with this.

** I know there are ready made T-Track table tops out there, but none of them fill my needs/application.
(and besides I really want to try this ... flush trimming laminate can be used for a lot of things)

[Kevin Jenness]

You don't need anything exotic for tooling, a sharp, short carbide flush trim bit with a round bearing will work just fine. Countertop shops may use a solid bit to avoid a bearing getting gummed up but they also probably use silicone spray and a fast feed rate to avoid burning. Cut your laminate fairly close to finished size and make sure you have a helper or a good way to accurately register it to the substrate. You can use long dowels to hold the laminate in position over the substrate and pull them out one by one as you lay the piece- you only get one shot at it. If you do have a big overhang, support the falloff to avoid tearing. Move the router along at a moderate, steady rate. You may need to clean up the bearing and any excess glue with acetone or lacquer thinner.

[Patty Hann]

You don't need anything exotic for tooling, a sharp, short carbide flush trim bit with a round bearing will work just fine. Countertop shops may use a solid bit to avoid a bearing getting gummed up but they also probably use silicone spray and a fast feed rate to avoid burning. Cut your laminate fairly close to finished size and make sure you have a helper or a good way to accurately register it to the substrate. You can use long dowels to hold the laminate in position over the substrate and pull them out one by one as you lay the piece- you only get one shot at it. If you do have a big overhang, support the falloff to avoid tearing. Move the router along at a moderate, steady rate. You may need to clean up the bearing and any excess glue with acetone or lacquer thinner.

Thank you...should I also get the elongated base for the router to prevent [operator caused] tilting?

[Kevin Jenness]

Thank you...should I also get the elongated base for the router to prevent [operator caused] tilting?

It won't hurt, but it's not necessary. Just keep the downward force of your grip over the substrate instead of thin air. I sometimes have one hand on the router barrel and one on the base, but you need to keep your fingers clear of the cutter and a wide base could make that easier.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I noticed the few times I trimmed laminate that anything but a smooth stroke increased the chances of chipping.
My uneducated guess would be that it "isn't the arrow, it's the Indian" applies here - as in the more you do it, the better your technique will be.

** I know there are ready made T-Track table tops out there, but none of them fill my needs/application.
(and besides I really want to try this ... flush trimming laminate can be used for a lot of things)

Having said above what I said, let me add that - shop jigs and fixtures, as well as things that will live in a basement or laundry room, are great for ironing out stuff.
Even places that aren't seen, like the back of a cabinet that goes against a wall - can be a great canvas to work on perfecting that method of putting on a finish that doesn't leave brush strokes.

On the hardware part of the question - Whiteside, Freud, , Southeast Tool, Yonico /- Ryobi and last but certainly least - Temu & Harbor Freight - - in that order are what I use.

[Steve Engelschall]

I've done a lot of flush trimming on WilsonArt laminate and it has never chipped on me. It doesn't seem very chip-prone. Used a Freud flush trim bit in a compact router.

[Patty Hann]

I noticed the few times I trimmed laminate that anything but a smooth stroke increased the chances of chipping.
My uneducated guess would be that it "isn't the arrow, it's the Indian" applies here - as in the more you do it, the better your technique will be.

Having said above what I said, let me add that - shop jigs and fixtures, as well as things that will live in a basement or laundry room, are great for ironing out stuff.
Even places that aren't seen, like the back of a cabinet that goes against a wall - can be a great canvas to work on perfecting that method of putting on a finish that doesn't leave brush strokes.

On the hardware part of the question - Whiteside, Freud, , Southeast Tool, Yonico /- Ryobi and last but certainly least - Temu & Harbor Freight - - in that order are what I use.

Thank you.... yes shop fixtures and furniture are where I practice ... a lot.
My classmates in WW class (at the local JC) give me a hard time about getting things square and straight and "Just right", even to applying polycoat (no nibs allowed ).
"It's only shop furniture!" they keep telling me.

My reply is 1) It's where I get a lot of practice, (as in: hmmm.,.. that didn't turn out so well....I guess I'll try something different next time), and
2) Yeah, it's only shop furniture, but it's my shop furniture, and something in me always tries to get a thing perfect.
Can't say I succeed all the time or even most of the time, but still it's the old "A man's reach should exceed his grasp."

I'm a Whiteside fan, fer sure, fer sure. Got lots of them (just no flush trim bits)

[Grant Wilkinson]

The Wilson Art site has advice on bits to use, along with speeds and feed rates. They seem to vary a bit depending on which of their products you are using. Generally, though, they say to use the largest diameter bit that you can and keep the overhang to a minimum. You can read more specific advice by choosing the docs related to the laminate that you are using.

[Patty Hann]

The Wilson Art site has advice on bits to use, along with speeds and feed rates. They seem to vary a bit depending on which of their products you are using. Generally, though, they say to use the largest diameter bit that you can and keep the overhang to a minimum. You can read more specific advice by choosing the docs related to the laminate that you are using.

Thank you..,.didn't know about the W-A site with advice on cutting (but I did see the section on adhesives and cementing the laminate to the substrate)

[John Kananis]

I prefer the solid cutters, without bearing for laminate. The plain old bottom bearing straight bits works just fine too but they gums up with adhesive. Fyi, put a little Vaseline on the edge (which should already be laminated if you're doing the top. And finish by running a file along the entire edge (once it's trimmed).

[Jim Becker]

John do you mean the edge tooling that has a small brass "extension" at the bottom that effectively acts like a flush bearing?

[John Kananis]

No, the one with a little notch cut into the shaft, which does to cutting. I'll try and find a pic. I found one, like this.
https://www.rockler.com/freud-64-100...EaAuScEALw_wcB

[Patty Hann]

John do you mean the edge tooling that has a small brass "extension" at the bottom that effectively acts like a flush bearing?

Jim...in my original post I was talking about what John posted a pic of (solid guide). But I have seen bits with the little brass "pilot" on the end.
Whiteside (among others) makes them ... I have two roundover bits like that #1980 and #1982

Roundover bit.jpg

[Lloyd McKinlay]

Very timely thread. Any additional tips or advice if using a solid surface (Corian type) material?

[glenn bradley]

@Patty - I left solid guide pins behind back in high school. The friction of a 30k RPM bit is just too much for anything but a bearing IMHO. I agree that a teardrop base can be helpful in avoiding operator induced boo-boos. I made this one for my Bosch Colt in about an hour total.

Colt Teardrop (4).jpg

Of course I already happened to have the plastic on hand.

Those folks that have done thousands of lineal feet of one-handed trim router work forget that we are all not as experienced. The chipping I can only attribute to poor control of the router, poor bit choice, or poor materials. If the material is good quality, the bit is sharp, and you have control of your tool . . . all should be well. Good luck and keep on truckin'.