Loved, but Seldom Used Stanley 45

[Jim Koepke]

one day I will figure out how to post pictures and will post them.

Great story of the hunt David.

Posting images is not terribly difficult. The biggest problem most people have is getting the file down to a small enough size. I do not recall the maximum size, for some reason 1.7 Mbytes comes to mind.

Next is finding the correct icon above the area where the text appears when you are typing a reply. In the row of icons on the right is what looks like a cartoon dialog balloon. That is for tagging text quoted from another post or source. To the left of that is an icon that sort of looks like a piece of movie film. That is for inserting a video.

The third icon looks like a tree as seen through a window. That is for inserting an image. Click on it and it will bring up a dialog box that lets you select an image from either your computer or from a URL. The image will be inserted where the cursor is when icon was selected.

If you are starting a new thread or use the Go Advanced button there is another choice for posting images. The paper clip with a little triangle next to it brings up a different image handler that will let a person upload two images at a time up to a total of eight images per post. This is good if one is posting multiple images. After uploading the images, click on the little triangle next to the paper clip and it will bring up a list of your uploaded images and clicking on one of them will place it where the cursor is at the time the triangle was clicked.

As a member you will not be able to see most posted images. To see images you have to become a Contributor at $6 a year, money well spent in my experience.

Hope this helps,

jtk

[steven c newman]

Ok, has anyone figured out exactly WHAT the slitter does? It is nice to have that second depth stop back by the tote...but...if one stores it point up, a cut finger might result. Point down, gets in the way of other things....stored back in the case/box..usually goes AWOL....along with that short 1/8" wide cutter..

[mike stenson]

Ok, has anyone figured out exactly WHAT the slitter does? It is nice to have that second depth stop back by the tote...but...if one stores it point up, a cut finger might result. Point down, gets in the way of other things....stored back in the case/box..usually goes AWOL....along with that short 1/8" wide cutter..

Cutting strips off of thin wood, like blinds or removing things like beads. Mine's sitting in the box. I do not find it useful for my work, but someone may be happy with having a complete tool once I'm gone.

[Jim Koepke]

Ok, has anyone figured out exactly WHAT the slitter does?

As Mike posted it is good for slitting thin pieces upto ~1/4" or so. The piece can be flipped in for end and worked on both sides to make a cleaner cut than a saw in about the same time.

The slitter can also be used like a panel gauge for marking cut offs or scoring the edges of a raised panel.

The point of the slitter should be rounded instead of a sharp point for best results.

jtk

[James Pallas]

I use the slitter to cut stringing and straight cuts for fretwork. I have also used it to split long dowels for various trim pieces. I find it useful for marking in some cases as it makes a good mark to run a rabbet plane or a saw into. It does a good job on veneer also when many strips need to be cut.
Jim

[steven c newman]

Roh kay, Raggie...lets see..
The 45s, labels .JPG
Boxes....One is a reproduction of the Roxton Pond case..the other was my own design..
The 45s, Type 5 .JPG
This is either a Type 4 or Type 5...brass bolts have slots, body is nickel plated..
The 45s, box of cutters .JPG
Box of cutters is a No.2, from a Stanley No. 55
The 45s, Type 5 .JPG
There is a notch to hold the tote..plane is set up to plough dados..
The 45s, top view.JPG

and next..the Type 20..stay tuned...

[Jim Koepke]

This is either a Type 4 or Type 5...brass bolts have slots, body is nickel plated..

Type 5s have a blade adjuster, making this a type 4. Don't recall for sure if type 3s were still Japanned or nickel plated.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Made/assembled at Roxton Pond, QUE. CAN. this is a reproduction of the OEM box...
The 45s, box top .JPG
Inside..
The 45s, sash cutter .JPG
You'll see a few loose items, and at one end..
The 45s, cutter stowage .JPG
A double row of cutters..
The 45s, Type 20 .JPG
While the earlier version had the front knob on the main stock...type 20 had it on the fence...
The 45s, small cutters .JPG
There is one cutter that never had a notch..and this is why....there isn't enough metal in an1/8" wide cutter...so, they made it so the pin will just push against the cutter's backside..

To put this away..take the rods off..
The 45s, start packing up.JPG
lay the fence and the sliding stock on top of the rods..keeps them from rolling around...then lay the main stock on top..
The 45s, stowed away .JPG
Add the screwdriver, and close the lid..
The 45s , boxes .JPG

And that is about it..

[David Carroll]

Huh, I've never thought of actually using the slitter, I was just disappointed that my 45 didn't have it. I did get one eventually. Somebody, maybe on this site or Knots or somewhere, was making them and I bought one. I do work in thin wood from time to time, so maybe I'll give it a try for repeated cuts. For one or two I imagine it's just as fast to use a knife and a straightedge, which is what I do now, For Christmas I made my grandkids a sort of an advent calendar with little doors to hold treats. The doors were 3/8-inches thick and had little 1/8-inch bezel-frames all around them (to thicken the panel so the tiny hinges would land right). Would've come in handy then!

DC

[carey mitchell]

I picked up a nice #45 a couple of years ago, but have never gotten around to really understanding it. I did use it for some rabbetts and beading.

I learned several things quickly:
1. It will do the job; actually, lots of jobs
2. It ain't nearly as simple as it looks
3. The old timers probably had more patience than me.
4. They also had more muscle than me.

[mike stenson]

The differences in boxes are always interesting. My 1906 version came in this box, that I liked to much I copied it for my Veritas small plow.

[David Carroll]

The differences in boxes are always interesting. My 1906 version came in this box, that I liked to much I copied it for my Veritas small plow.

Mike- Did your's come with the sliding cover? If so, what did it look like? Mine came with a cover, but it looks like walnut, not chestnut, and very roughly made, I've always assumed it was a replacement. But it occurs to me I've never seen one in mint condition. So who knows?

DC

[mike stenson]

Mike- Did your's come with the sliding cover? If so, what did it look like? Mine came with a cover, but it looks like walnut, not chestnut, and very roughly made, I've always assumed it was a replacement. But it occurs to me I've never seen one in mint condition. So who knows?

DC

David,

As far as I can tell, it's original. It's obviously split and repaired. Looks like the same level of workmanship as the rest of the box.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim, thanks, I was afraid that it might be quite a bit of work, and it looks like it might end up being exactly that. I am sorry I did not figure it out the first time you posted on it, but think probably some other folks did understand how you were able to do that.

Do you know if the book by Heckel that you mentioned is very available, and is it a pretty good book on using the 45? It sounds like it might be a good book for me to try to find.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

Stew, I see your question about David Heckel's book wasn't answered. The book, as I recall, doesn't present information on using the Stanley #45. It is mostly about the events that led up to its development and of course the type study is what many find useful or interesting. The book is still available for about $60.

My reason for looking back into this thread is to send you a PM to let you know of my post on doing stopped cuts.

jtk

[Monte Milanuk]

Just got a Stanley #45 the other day, and I've been playing with it a little bit - or at least attempting to. The 'middle' knicker on each skate is pretty well worn down to a nub, and one is kind of bent out a hair. I'm having a devil of a time getting the screws for them loose. At the moment I've got them soaking with a bit of Kroil. Any other suggestions on getting those little screws loose without damaging anything?