block plane recommendation

[Jack Dover]

I'd pick a model with adjustable mouth and with a good lever that corrects an iron skew. Vintage or new they're about the same after properly fettled, except the looks.

A mouth has to be adjustable to the point where it's completely close, or it will be hard to use it on curved surfaces or when blocking thin pieces.

Also I wish I would pass on a skew iron Irish chariot plane, it was about the size of #60 1/2, but would be quite a bit more useful for blocking purposes w\o being mechanically too complicated.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

No one seems to have mentioned weight. I bought one of those new Stanley "Sweetheart" 9 1/2 block planes a while ago. I find it unncessarily heavy (3 lb after a web search) and also don't care for the A2 iron. On one ocasion it just slipped out of my hand. The vintage block planes have a more reasonable weigth and are easier to sharpen. The LN planes don't seem as heavy, but I don't have one to compare.

Over a pound, under two, seems sweet to me.

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[Howard Pollack]

Personally, I think that the Veritas DX60 is a great plane. I was using it today and admiring how very well it worked. I suspect that many other block planes work very well also. Think about the work that you do and how the tool fits your individual style of working. -Howard

[Rob Luter]

I much prefer a Stanley 65 or similar size. The 60 1/2 doesn't fit my hand nearly as well as the 65 size. I don't have one, but some folks like the Woodriver low angle version.

A #65 is a nice plane. I had a couple vintage knuckle joint versions, along with a couple knuckle joint #18. Both are good sized block planes and comfortable in the hand.

[Cameron Wood]

Here's my assortment.

The left two are used jobsite. Middle one inherited from grandparents & repaired. Right one most tuned, & custom grooved bottom.


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[Jon Snider]

I looked in my plane drawer to confirm, I’ve got an embarrassment of block planes. Four kids and several Christmas gifts. They don’t seem to understand I don’t need 10 of these.

I have std and low angle block planes from LN and Veritas, plus the Dx60, a skew block plane snd a Rabbet one. The one that seems to end up in my hands the most is one of my two (yes, two) 102’s.

[Rob Luter]

I looked in my plane drawer to confirm, I’ve got an embarrassment of block planes. Four kids and several Christmas gifts. They don’t seem to understand I don’t need 10 of these.

I have std and low angle block planes from LN and Veritas, plus the Dx60, a skew block plane snd a Rabbet one. The one that seems to end up in my hands the most is one of my two (yes, two) 102’s.

The #102 is an often underappreciated tool. I had two vintage Stanleys at one time. Many consider them junk but they were my "go to" for chamfering and edge breaking. One had an exceptionally tight mouth and worked well for super fine cuts. They have new homes now, but my LN #102 gets plenty of use.

[chuck van dyck]

LN 102 with a doubt. Big fat bevel, easy to free hand sharpen, quick to set back up. Mine gets put through the ringer. From furniture to scribing millwork and cutting back drywall. It even gets a lot of use on the lathe when batching out tapered legs and whatnot. Easy to put in your pocket on trips to the lumber yard. I could go on.

Not sure why it doesn’t seem to need a super tight mouth, maybe because its blade thickness cuts back on any chatter?

Anyways, they rock and are worth the price.

Very few people I have spoken with who own the rabbet block plane like it as a block plane. You need to be able to grab a block plane single handed in all sorts of funky ways, at least I do. Sometimes pushing, sometimes pulling. Those corners and knickers will bite ya.

[Patrick Baney]

The #102 is an often underappreciated tool. I had two vintage Stanleys at one time. Many consider them junk but they were my "go to" for chamfering and edge breaking. One had an exceptionally tight mouth and worked well for super fine cuts. They have new homes now, but my LN #102 gets plenty of use.

I picked up a 102 late last year, being primarily a 60-1/2 user. The 102 is a little more mobile, but the open mouth scares me as I rarely work with straight grained woods. I'm usually not willing to risk the tear-out. How do you navigate this? It's sharp...

[Derek Cohen]

Patrick, I have a LN #103, which is the standard angle version of the #102. It came with a larger-than-desired mouth. Incidentally, I had a LN #101 (now sold), and the mouth on this was huge.

In both cases I fixed the mouth by shimming the bed. This raised the blade a smidgeon, which reduced the size of the mouth. I used brass shim for this ...



It also serves the reduce the bed angle, in the case of the #103, it went. from 20 degrees to 19 degrees.

Great little plane. Mine uses an original (old!) O1 blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James Pallas]

60 1/2. Unless you need the rabbeting ability. Just remember that a rabbeting plane goes along with the saying “It’ll cut you”.
Jim

[Cameron Wood]

Patrick, I have a LN #103, which is the standard angle version of the #102. It came with a larger-than-desired mouth. Incidentally, I had a LN #101 (now sold), and the mouth on this was huge.

In both cases I fixed the mouth by shimming the bed. This raised the blade a smidgeon, which reduced the size of the mouth. I used brass shim for this ...



It also serves the reduce the bed angle, in the case of the #103, it went. from 20 degrees to 19 degrees.

Great little plane. Mine uses an original (old!) O1 blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Great idea. If the shim was only on the bed, did that require filing the shim to have the iron sit flat?

[Derek Cohen]

Great idea. If the shim was only on the bed, did that require filing the shim to have the iron sit flat?

No other work needed. It is really a simple process: cut the shim stock to size and glue with epoxy. Ensure all is smooth and flat. 10 minutes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

The Stanley No. 60-1/2 I use most, out of 2 on hand...is the older version, with the full bed for the iron...

A Standard angle by Marsch also has a full bed for the iron to sit on.

There is also a Stanley 102 and a 103 in the Tool Cabinet....the 102 is made from Aluminum and weighs less than a Bottle of Guinness Draught Stout...

Kept out of the action...is a Type 2 No. 9-1/2......with OEM iron, no less.

Careful when buying Block Planes....worse than mice....turn around from 2, turn back around and there is 6 of the critters sitting there. (15 at last count!)

[Rob Luter]

I picked up a 102 late last year, being primarily a 60-1/2 user. The 102 is a little more mobile, but the open mouth scares me as I rarely work with straight grained woods. I'm usually not willing to risk the tear-out. How do you navigate this? It's sharp...

I'll be honest, my #102 has a mouth opening larger than I'd prefer. That said, I've never had an issue with it. Keep the cuts light and it's a non issue. Trying to take heavy cuts with a plane that small doesn't make any sense anyway.