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Thread: Rikon 70-3040

  1. #1
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    Rikon 70-3040

    Wondering if anyone has used/bought one of these lathes yet? Just curious about any good or bad points about them.
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  2. #2
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    Jul 2015
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    i haven’t used one, still trying to understand how to get the banjo/tool bar up close to the headstock with the bed fully extended.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Nix View Post
    i haven’t used one, still trying to understand how to get the banjo/tool bar up close to the headstock with the bed fully extended.
    I wondered how that was done too. Downloaded the manual from Rikon and it shows and says to move the banjo down to the lower bed and install the post extension to bring the rest back up to spindle height. Having never been able to see one in person, I can't say how easy it is to move the banjo from bed to bed, but, at least it's something one would not often do.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  4. #4
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    Dec 2008
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    I have had one for about a month. The banjo is moved to lower set of ways and add the extension to the tool rest post very easy to change back and forth. I have turned anything large yet but the 3 Hp. motor is a beast. I have not found any short coming of the lathe.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hayward View Post
    Wondering if anyone has used/bought one of these lathes yet? Just curious about any good or bad points about them.
    I've read a little about them, nothing in depth as I haven't been serious yet about shopping lathes in this class. One very attractive point I found is that there are 4 shaft bearings in the headstock, which I would think would reduce lateral forces on the bearings as a whole. The whole motorized bed is kind of neat, allowing for a shorter footprint in the non-extended state. But, being motorized is another potential point of failure. Not sure yet if that bothers me or not.

    Rikon machines have a pretty good reputation for reliability, and their customer service is also generally well regarded. Not to mention the 5 year warranty.

    And I just noticed in the Woodcraft flier I got today, that Rikon gear is going to be 15% off during the week of March 10. I called my local Woodcraft to see if the 3040 was included and they assured me it was. But they did say it would likely be a while for delivery.
    Last edited by Brian Tymchak; 03-03-2023 at 12:57 PM.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  6. #6
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    It took me a while to find but I remembered there being another thread a while back about the 3040. Might provide some insight.

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-Rikon-70-3040
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  7. #7

    Rikon 70-3040 lathe "Owner"

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    It took me a while to find but I remembered there being another thread a while back about the 3040. Might provide some insight.

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-Rikon-70-3040
    I have the 3040 and yes I like it. I'm a retired millwright and if I do not like something I rework it. I'm on my 7th lathe and have reworked all.
    1- the tail stock works will but mine is better. I put a compression spring between the t-nut and tailstock now it slide free.Much better for lining up when putting back on bed.
    2- tail stock is no light! Made a hing down table to swing the tailstock off and back on. Used a garage door tension spring and cables to help lift it back up.
    3- marked the travel red, so the quill will not over trave.
    4-set screw for the hand wheel came loss. Took out drilled into shafe 1/8", put in longer set screws (2).
    5-Hard to remove with out a rod. Made to fork tool to pry out the MT2 tools
    6-Tail stock and banjo lock is a cam. Drilled and taped a hole for a spring D-tent set screw. This holds the handle in the unlock position.

    7-Banjo post lock is a screw on shaft. Turned a brass slug to fix the round of the tool post, cut about 5/16" between locking screw and post (holds much better)
    8- banjo t-nut some compression spring rework.

    9-Metal bar to back of lathe that can hold the bust hood, lights, power bar 115volt, more

    Have made many more changed to this machine and yes I love it. Have turned a 31" piece between centres. Have the way fell-in part for when turning long spindles (do not need hi post) Anyone wish more info just ask

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