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Thread: C Channel for dining table build

  1. #46
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Highland MI
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    Check out Blacktail Studio on YouTube, he frequently routers in a recess for a steel C channel, but usually for leg attachment.

  2. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    I saw this the other day and thought of this thread. This is basically the same way I've been using internal rods/dowels to strengthen tops, just like the small patio table I posted.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH86OiE15GI
    That was a great video, thanks for sharing.
    So you would recommend the rods go all the way through each panel or do you think it's enough if the rods go through the majority of the board (for example, say each board is 8" wide and a 6" rod goes in 3" in on each side of the board and 3" into the adjacent board). Also I think the metal rods would be "floating" and not have any glue placed on them like wooden dowels would. If the rod just has to go into the majority of the board, then in the 6" rod example, would you recommend drilling the hole to 3.5" to allow for some space so the rod isn't a super tight fit? I'm thinking about using a 3/8" rod for 1.5" thick board. Thanks!

  3. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Banh View Post
    That was a great video, thanks for sharing.
    So you would recommend the rods go all the way through each panel or do you think it's enough if the rods go through the majority of the board (for example, say each board is 8" wide and a 6" rod goes in 3" in on each side of the board and 3" into the adjacent board). Also I think the metal rods would be "floating" and not have any glue placed on them like wooden dowels would. If the rod just has to go into the majority of the board, then in the 6" rod example, would you recommend drilling the hole to 3.5" to allow for some space so the rod isn't a super tight fit? I'm thinking about using a 3/8" rod for 1.5" thick board. Thanks!
    Personally, I would go all the way through. Boards can warp, cup, and twist at any point across their width. How tight you make the tolerances is up to you and what wood you're working with. You're trying to restrain the wood from moving across it's width, too loose and it defeats the purpose. There is also no need to put glue on the dowels but it's not a big deal if some gets on them. If you're concerned, you can always wax them beforehand so glue won't adhere during assembly.

  4. #49
    they try to allow side to side movement then the focus is trying to keep it flat.

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