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Thread: The "feel" of an epoxy bench top

  1. #1

    The "feel" of an epoxy bench top

    The folks who use an epoxy, marine or otherwise, on their bench tops all speak to how tough it is. In the newly resurrected ShopNotes Vol.24, Issue 139 there is a bench build that laminates plywood on its edge for the bench top. The top is then epoxied. I am building up a new shop after a recent move and am kicking ideas around in my head.

    The only epoxied wood I have been around has been on boat hulls. I am trying to anticipate what it would be like to work on an epoxied bench top. I like the feel of a wood bench finished in BLO or wax. I think I am concerned epoxy would be more slippery than I would like. It's pretty subjective, I know. Epoxy is clearly popular for its durability and ease of repair. Can someone speak to the difference in feel with traditional oil/wax finishes?

    TIA

  2. #2
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    I have been trying to use less plastic to cut down on microplastic pollution. If it's possible to use wood, metal, or ceramic, I do. Eventually a plastic topped work bench will degrade into tiny particles in the environment. A wood topped bench is going to eventually just rot into soil.

    Being wood workers, it makes sense to use wood when we can. Shops that are all plastic start to look like a fancy kitchen. Use linseed oil.

  3. #3
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    I have mixed feelings about this idea. I can absolutely see how resin can be incorporated into a bench project and provide a "tough" surface. But "tough" is relative and one thing that's abundantly clear to me after doing this woodworking thing for two and a half decades is that benchtops are in many ways "sacrificial", at least relative to the very top surface. They need to be reconditioned from time to time to restore flatness and remove any major "boo boos" that come naturally with how they are used. That's certainly not impossible to do with a resin surface, but you can't just whip out the hand planes to do the deed. There may or may not be stresses placed on the underlying material with a resin poured surface as it cures if the entire substrate isn't covered on all sides, too. This kind of thing wouldn't likely matter for a dining table or a bar top, but for a workbench where we "expect" absolute flatness (at least as much is achievable) it might be enough to be frustrating. So I'm not saying "stay away from the idea"...I'm just suggesting that it really needs to be thought through.

    I have three workbenches in my shop currently. Both my main bench (adjustable height) and my guitar bench (a fixed higher surface) have tops made with solid wood, although the latter has some inlaid exterior MDF panels. Both have BLO as a "finish". The third is my auxiliary bench (adjustable height with inserts for down-draft, pocket screw jig and flat) which has an exterior MDF benchtop with a few coats of oil based polyurethane varnish on it. All of these surfaces are easily renewable. I think that if I added any kind of surface in my shop that was coated with resin, it would be for a specific application where that resin might be an advantage, such as for assembly with potentially "non-stick" properties. But then again, a work surface with HPDE ($$$$$) would provide the same thing and be usable for ... resin projects ... too. (Jonny Builds on the 'Tube has this setup for his resin work)

    One other thing...consider the cost of the resin. It's not inexpensive at all.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    My main workbench has a store bought maple top. It has been used, I'll just leave it at that
    I have scraped, sanded and re-coated several times over the years. I use Good Stuff.
    It's fast, easy and durable.
    https://www.butcherblock.com/product/emmets-good-stuff/

    Just a suggestion

  5. #5
    Thanks for all the thoughtful feedback. I have had these reservations myself about an epoxy bench top, hence the request for comment.

    I have made laminated bench legs of plywood in the past. They were being used for weight bearing-structural reasons rather than for surface durability. Gluing up several strips of 3/4" sheets make great legs, and I like the look in a garage shop.

    This ShopNotes bench project is made up of strip sheets of plywood glued up, with the laminate sides comprising the top. I am thinking this would not be very durable without the epoxy. Don't know that BLO would be sufficient for the job.

  6. #6
    Sheet metal is pretty tough too- good for small engine repair.

    I guess bar tops are sometimes epoxy surfaced- good for sliding a pint.

    For woodworking? Why would you want an edge grain plywood bench top?

  7. #7
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    If it is a wood working bench I would think you would not want epoxy. I have used them in other shops as non-woodworking benches and they are super durable but not what you want for hand tool work.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron Wood View Post

    For woodworking? Why would you want an edge grain plywood bench top?
    Conversely...why not? It would be visually interesting and there's nothing wrong with having "nice things" in the shop...based on personal subjective factors, of course. Laminated plywood on the edge is no different than laminated maple strips or even this...my main benchtop....

    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Conversely...why not? It would be visually interesting and there's nothing wrong with having "nice things" in the shop...based on personal subjective factors, of course. Laminated plywood on the edge is no different than laminated maple strips or even this...my main benchtop....
    That pic of your bench is motivating for sure. But maybe I am not being clear or more likely misspeaking. The ShopNotes bench plans have the edge of the plywood exposed. This would be like a bench top of laminated end grain, wouldn't it?





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    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-01-2023 at 9:02 AM. Reason: Fixed quote tagging

  10. #10
    A laminated plywood bench top and comments:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....to-be-en-vouge

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Conversely...why not? It would be visually interesting and there's nothing wrong with having "nice things" in the shop...based on personal subjective factors, of course. Laminated plywood on the edge is no different than laminated maple strips or even this...my main benchtop....

    If my guesstimate is right, there wold be ten times as many glue lines and potential grit from plywood sanding, for two...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Seidner View Post
    That pic of your bench is motivating for sure. But maybe I am not being clear or more likely misspeaking. The ShopNotes bench plans have the edge of the plywood exposed. This would be like a bench top of laminated end grain, wouldn't it?




    You were clear and my comment indicated that would be an interesting look. Obviously, it requires used of high quality, void free plywood for best effort. An alternative material might be glue-lam. With plywood you could even get really fancy with creating the "end grain" patterns a la Michal Alm.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron Wood View Post
    If my guesstimate is right, there wold be ten times as many glue lines and potential grit from plywood sanding, for two...
    Of course there would. But why is that an actual problem if someone wanted to take the time, effort and initiative to do that if they like the idea? This is a very subjective thing for sure.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Of course there would. But why is that an actual problem if someone wanted to take the time, effort and initiative to do that if they like the idea? This is a very subjective thing for sure.
    True. I think of it from the perspective of having lots of sharp cutting edges that I wouldn't use on plywood. I have various pieces of LVL that are looking for a purpose. Waxy surfaces, 'tho, and they tend to produce nasty splinters.

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