What Type Chisel Is This

[Joe Wood]

I call it a slick but I know that's wrong. What's the best size / type chisel to be chopping these soft cedar timbers?? That steel ring at the end isn't exactly made for hand work but good for hammer. I need a couple more, this one has has been working well but I bet there's better!

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[Rob Luter]

A slick or a big firmer. The wood isn’t troubled by what it is called.

[Bradley Gray]

sharper is what is better. Perhaps keep the slick and upgrade your method of sharpening.

I also find that rubbing paraffin on the chisel helps a lot.

[John Lanciani]

Framing chisel. Slicks typpically have much longer handles with a pommel on the end so that you can lean on it with your shoulder or upper body.

[Derek Cohen]

Just a firmer chisel. Nothing out of the ordinary. Firmer chisels are heavier duty than bevel-sided chisels, having square sides to beef them up. A Slick would be larger, wider, with a long handle, and the handle would cant upwards slightly.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dave Zellers]

I have this one. https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Sorby-...dp/B00866781Y/
Don't use it a lot but it's great when I need it.

[Andrew Hughes]

Good looking cuts on the end grain. Not easy to do on WRC.
Good Luck

[Patrick Johnson]

I call it a slick but I know that's wrong. What's the best size / type chisel to be chopping these soft cedar timbers?? That steel ring at the end isn't exactly made for hand work but good for hammer. I need a couple more, this one has has been working well but I bet there's better!

IMG_1437.jpgIMG_1439.jpg

Cosman recommends a 17deg chisel for soft woods like cedar and pine. https://robcosman.com/collections/ch...hisel-1-2-inch Make sure your chisels are sharp!

[Rafael Herrera]

If you browse old tool catalogs, you'll notice that beveled, non-beveled, and gouges are all referred as firmer chisels. I wonder where the notion that straight sided chisels are firmers come from originally.

In this old Marples catalog a similar chisel to yours is labeled an extra strong chisel.

https://toolemera.typepad.com/files/marplescat1938.pdf

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[mike stenson]

Barr calls ones about that size bench chisels, but they also make slightly longer ones they call framing chisels and, of course slicks.

[Joe Wood]

Any opinions on this one with a 22* bevel?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V92MIIU...135490_TE_item

[mike stenson]

Any opinions on this one with a 22* bevel?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V92MIIU...135490_TE_item

Regarding it to a shallower angle shouldn't be an issue IMO. I've done this with one of their paring chisels, without an issue. The biggest issue I ran into with that chisel was the back needed a lot of work.

[Derek Cohen]

If you browse old tool catalogs, you'll notice that beveled, non-beveled, and gouges are all referred as firmer chisels. I wonder where the notion that straight sided chisels are firmers come from originally.

In this old Marples catalog a similar chisel to yours is labeled an extra strong chisel.

https://toolemera.typepad.com/files/marplescat1938.pdf

Screenshot_20230220-151828_Drive.jpgScreenshot_20230220-151828_Drive.jpg

Adam Cherubini is one whose opinion I trust when it comes to vintage tools and joinery. He had this to say:

“I don't know what a registered chisel is. I think some manufacturer just made it up,

Firming chisels were traditionally the general purpose chisel. Cabinetmakers had large sets of these (many sizes). They were designed to be struck. There were light duty tanged firmers and heavier socketed firmers and even larger framing chisels. But they weren't all available in the same sizes- so it wasn't so much of a personal choice thing.

Modern firmers often have beveled sides, but anglo american 18th c firmers typically did not. I don't think there's any real difference between the two. If I had to guess, I'd say the non beveled sort had stronger edges. They are also a little more resistant to over heating when grinding.”

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Edward Weber]

Adam Cherubini is one whose opinion I trust when it comes to vintage tools and joinery. He had this to say:

“I don't know what a registered chisel is. I think some manufacturer just made it up,

Firming chisels were traditionally the general purpose chisel. Cabinetmakers had large sets of these (many sizes). They were designed to be struck. There were light duty tanged firmers and heavier socketed firmers and even larger framing chisels. But they weren't all available in the same sizes- so it wasn't so much of a personal choice thing.

Modern firmers often have beveled sides, but anglo american 18th c firmers typically did not. I don't think there's any real difference between the two. If I had to guess, I'd say the non beveled sort had stronger edges. They are also a little more resistant to over heating when grinding.”

Regards from Perth

Derek

As others have said, it's just a basic Firmer chisel, although there have been about a dozen or more small variations as Derek mentioned. Millwrights chisel, Timber framing, carpenters chisel, registered, firmer and the list go on.
Slicks are two handed chisels that start at 2" or above, and are not struck, only pushed. Firmers are meant to be struck with a mallet, not a claw hammer.
If you are looking to buy one, you can searched for used or companies like Sorby, Northmen and Barr, amongst others sell them.
Many log home sites have tools listed on their sites as well.

[Jim Koepke]

May big chisel (2") is set up for pushing by hand, though it can be driven with a mallet.

2 Inch Chisel.jpg

It is a Stanley

Crescent Tools made a chisel at one time to be hit by a hammer.

Crescent Chisel.png

There is a 1" version of this in my drawer of beater chisels.

Now that is a true beater chisel.

jtk