Festool Kapex or Makita LS1019L?

[richard poitras]

What one should I buy? The Festool Kapex KS 120 Sliding Miter Saw or Makita LS1019L . I have narrowed it down to one of these two miter saws. I have watched all the U-Tube reviews I can possibly handle.

For those folks that actually have them, are you happy with your purchases, would you buy it again, or do you have any comments regarding your units that could help in my decision.
I know the Kapex had issues with the motors, but I believe that has been addressed with the newer models. One other complaint I was reading about was that the switch to start the saw was kind of a pain to use and that some have modified the switches to be easier to use. ( Not sure if there is a video out there on how to do it) but if there are any other issues with the Kapex please advise. Also do you have to buy Festool only blades for the saw or do 3rd party vendors sell good blades for the Kapex arbor size?
I have also reviewed the Makita, it seems to have a lot of positive features also, but for about ½ the price. But I don’t want to sacrifice on quality of cuts and durability if that may be the case?
I guess I can live with the price of the Kapex, even though its way over priced if it’s that much better than the Makita, but why spend the money if there’s not that much difference .

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks Richard

[Aaron Inami]

The Makita dust collection is actually pretty darn good for close cuts. Obviously, once you pull out for sliding, it goes to hell. However, the miter scale plate on the Makita is made from soft stamped aluminum. The detents on the commonly used degree will wear fast and lose accuracy for those slots. This guy used to produce steel versions of this scale plate, but he no longer does:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljaCfuYibQY

Some people have reported twisting in the Makita tubular slide rails. Example: when pushed all the way back, saw is at 90 degree perfect, but when you pull the saw all the way forward, the bevel may twist to 88-92. This makes a crooked cut if you do a long sliding cut. The process to adjust the slide rails is a huge hassle, but doable - and it's extremely touchy with adjustments. You may need an impact driver with a hex head just to loosen the bolt. Most people will just take the saw back and exchange it until they get a model that is aligned perfectly straight.

Overall accuracy will likely be better on the Festool Kapex. The blades are on the Festool are proprietary and they use a special blade size as well as an arbor size. You can't just buy any blade like you could for other miter saws. The Festool blades are expensive at $160-175.

I would advise against modifying the switch mechanism, especially since it can effect the safety features built into the switch. Do at your own risk.

[Rich Konopka]

I have both the Makita and the Kapex. I recently purchased the Kapex and used it 2 weeks ago to cut some drawer fronts. It's a great saw and I never even considered the extra blades costs as an issue. I paid $1600 for the saw and the price of a good saw blade would not be much different to worry about.But thats me.

I have had Makita Miter saws for IONS and they are very good. You wont be disappointed.
Oh, I almost forgot. Check out the forest chopmaster blades. The 10” blade is only $20 less than their blade for the Festool. They are considered some of the best woodworking blades and I personally have them and use them.

[Marc Fenneuff]

I have had the Makita for about a year and have been very impressed by the power, accuracy, and dust collection. The included 60T blade also cuts beautifully. Highly recommended.

[John Pendery]

I own a kapex I use for site work and installations, and have two older makitas that served their purpose but weren’t quite as accurate as the kapex. None of these saws are perfectly accurate, but the kapex is pretty good from my experience. Mine is an older model and I guess I’ve been lucky so far as the motor is still going. I never understood what everyone was complaining about regarding the ergonomics of the handle. It’s the same orientation of the arm we use to shake hands. I like the adjustments, especially the bevel adjuster knob. Dust collection is a big reason I opted for a kapex, as that was the only viable option back when I purchased mine. Good luck!

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have a Kapex waiting for me to replace the armature. Hopefully Festool has solved that $$$ defect in their newer saws. I replaced it with a Bosch because of back wall issues. What a dust collection nightmare compared to the Kapex! That alone is reason enough to shell out the extra dollars. If the Makita sucks up debris close to the Kapex level that would be my choice.

[Mike Henderson]

I've had the Kapex for several years and have been satisfied with it. No experience with the Makita.

The dust collection on the Kapex is not great. Maybe better than other miter saws, but still not great.

Mike

[Rob Sack]

I have a Kapex and while I think Festool products and especially the accessories are over priced, they are excellent tools which is why I continue to buy them. I do however disagree with their claim that you need to use their dust extractors for maximum dust pickup. As discussed ad naseum on a previous post, my set up works just about as well as with the Festool extractors, and I have used both, at about a third the cost and with a lifetime warranty. I am currently picking up well over 90% of the dust.

As far as blades are concerned, you do not have to use Festool blades. I am currently using an Everlast on the Kapex based on the recommendation of my sharpening service. It seems to cut at least as cleanly as the original Festool blade, if not a bit cleaner, and seems to be at least as durable. I also believe Tenryu makes a blade for the Kapex, and based on the Tenryu blades I already use in the shop, it should perform equally as well. If I am not mistaken, both the Everlast and the Tenryu are considerably less expensive than the Festool blade.

[Jonathan Jung]

I've had both those models in the last year. The Makita does not cut straight, so it's relegated to mostly rough cutting. It's dust collection is almost as good as the Kapex if you use separate hoses into a Y fitting - don't use the splitter that comes with the saw. The Kapex cuts straighter but that's the only useful feature for me, so I sold it. I use a Dewalt DW716 for super accurate cuts, and the Makita for rough cuts.

[Aaron Inami]

I've had both those models in the last year. The Makita does not cut straight, so it's relegated to mostly rough cutting. It's dust collection is almost as good as the Kapex if you use separate hoses into a Y fitting - don't use the splitter that comes with the saw. The Kapex cuts straighter but that's the only useful feature for me, so I sold it. I use a Dewalt DW716 for super accurate cuts, and the Makita for rough cuts.

Jonathan - It's likely more accurate because the DW716 is not a sliding saw, lol. How's the dust collection on that Dewalt DW716? I just sold my old Dewalt slider because it was so heavy (hard to carry it around and mount it) and also because I can do most things on the long sliding table saw now. I have been looking at non-sliding miter saws for doing crown mouldings (i.e. light weight 26 lbs saw instead of a 55+ lbs sliding beast). Been trying to figure out what is the best one. I was looking at the Hitachi/Metabo saws because the dust collection port appears to be up the blade channel like the Festool (instead of behind through that hinge gap like most other saws). This would be hooked up to a dust extractor.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I can't see any reason that the Kapex is worth twice the cost of the Makita unless you just really want to make your woodworking peers jealous and think it would do so. I've used both, do not currently own either as the flat against the wall "benefits" of them are worth $0 to me, and are certainly not worth compromised frame strength and built in unbalance vs a traditional rail design saw. If I had to choose between the two I'd buy the Makita and $600 in lumber. In a hobby woodshop either the Kapex or the 1019 will work fine.

[Keegan Shields]

I've had both the Bosch and now use the Kapex and I'm convinced the centered handle is one of the things that makes it more accurate. The Bosch (and the Makita type design I suspect) has a handle off center and it would flex out of plumb in the cut. It was particularly noticeable on 8/4+ thickness cuts.

Still hunting for a bargin on a used Omga

[richard poitras]

Thanks for all the feedback, a lot of good info and a lot to think about.

[Mitch schiffer]

I have the makita and I am happy with it. It is much more accurate then my cordless Milwaukee saw that I use on site. The only complaint about the makita is that it has a laser instead of a shadow line. I much prefer the shadow line myself. I know they added the shadow line on the newer cordless saws so I imagine one could be retrofitted the the corded model.

[Greg Parrish]

I previously had the Makita and once you get it aligned, it did a fine job. I was able to use a pry bar and follow instructions found online to get it tracking accurately but it did worry me about how well it would hold the accuracy over time.

now I have the festool and prefer it’s function and use after having it a while. The ergonomics are different but it works well. The main reason I bought it was for slightly improved dust collection over the makita. It’s not a drastic improvement but I wanted the best dust collection possible using a vac instead of building a large dust shroud behind the saw.